• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Mep-002A AC Reconnection Switch

RJM27

Active member
359
30
28
Location
Burdett NY
The AC Reconnection swith is stuck (unable to turn to other setting) on 120/240 PH-1, far right position. We are only reading a 120 volts across the Lugs. when we P/U the unit @ Letterkenny it was on far left 3-phase, we were able to turn it over to far right, but did seem to turn hard. Any thoughts why we are not reading 240 and why we can't turn the switch back. ?????????
Bob. :?
 

n1oty

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
170
1
16
Location
Taunton, MA
I had the same issue with my Reconnect switch on my 002. Sometimes the switch would stick and/or not fully engage in the 120/240 1 phase position. I put a few drops of oil on the rotation mechanism at the front of the switch, worked the switch back and forth a few times and have had zero problems since.

John
 

Harleyd315

Member
195
5
18
Location
Denville,New Jersey
Had the same problem witha 003. I loosened the 2 studs that held the switch together, the front one is easy but the back one u will need an angle wrench, then sprayed contact cleaner all over it and let it sit for a few hours to be sure it was dry. Then spray a little WD40 or similiar in the front area of the switch and retightened. It seemed to do the trick. I think the area that binds up is in the front of these switches where the locking mechanism is so maybe just try a little WD up front first. What lugs are you checking for voltage? L0,L1 and L3 are used in the 120/240 configuration. L0-L1 120 volts L0-L3 120 volts L1-L3 240 volts
 

RJM27

Active member
359
30
28
Location
Burdett NY
I had the same issue with my Reconnect switch on my 002. Sometimes the switch would stick and/or not fully engage in the 120/240 1 phase position. I put a few drops of oil on the rotation mechanism at the front of the switch, worked the switch back and forth a few times and have had zero problems since.

John
WIll give it a try in a bit, biggest problem is it won't turn at all, I just hop it wasn't moved while running?????. Any idea of what would happen if in fact it was moved while unit was running. How are you getting to the rotation mechanism in the front, or just removing the handle and spraying at the post??
Thanks again for the help!!!!
Bob.
 

RJM27

Active member
359
30
28
Location
Burdett NY
Had the same problem witha 003. I loosened the 2 studs that held the switch together, the front one is easy but the back one u will need an angle wrench, then sprayed contact cleaner all over it and let it sit for a few hours to be sure it was dry. Then spray a little WD40 or similiar in the front area of the switch and retightened. It seemed to do the trick. I think the area that binds up is in the front of these switches where the locking mechanism is so maybe just try a little WD up front first. What lugs are you checking for voltage? L0,L1 and L3 are used in the 120/240 configuration. L0-L1 120 volts L0-L3 120 volts L1-L3 240 volts
Yep, I'm on the right lugs, good to check though. Not sure I follow were the studs are located. I saw four bolts on the front were the switch cover is and looks like 4- bolts on the back by the fuel tank.
Thanks Bob.
 

n1oty

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
170
1
16
Location
Taunton, MA
WIll give it a try in a bit, biggest problem is it won't turn at all, I just hop it wasn't moved while running?????. Any idea of what would happen if in fact it was moved while unit was running. How are you getting to the rotation mechanism in the front, or just removing the handle and spraying at the post??
Thanks again for the help!!!!
Bob.

Don't move the switch while the gen set is running. In my case, I literally used a few drops of 3-in-1 lightweight oil directly onto the metal rotation mechanism at the front of the switch, I let it sit for an hour to work into the mechanism, then went back and rotated the switch. Voila!! Worked like a champ. I had read previous posts here that mentioned loosening the switch itself, but figured I had nothing to lose by simply trying lubrication only at first. In my case, lubrication worked great.

That switch is quite different than most switches you are probably familiar with. You have to turn slightly past the desired setting for the switch contacts to set properly. When the rotation mechanism is binding, the switch internally just doesn't want to work correctly, even if you are pointing at a particular setting.

John
 

n1oty

Member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
170
1
16
Location
Taunton, MA
Oh, I forgot to mention that access to the switch is through the side plate on the left side of the generator. The plate is held on by four bolts. I did not lube at the shaft in the front of the generator.

John
 

Harleyd315

Member
195
5
18
Location
Denville,New Jersey
4 bolts on the side cover will expose the rotary switch. There are 2 studs that hold the switch together, those are the ones that I loosened. Had to remove the fuel tank to get to the nuts that hold it in place on the back of the box.
 

RJM27

Active member
359
30
28
Location
Burdett NY
Removed the switch and was able to free everything up. Seems like it had jumped out of place behind the rotary switch and connected to the spring. Quite diry as well. Put it all back together and works fine. Although I'm in need of the handle that allows you to turn the switch, plastic, disengrated. Thaks for all the help and suggestions.
Bob.:D
 

vanderwoude

New member
7
0
0
Location
Townshend, Vt
I know this is too old a post to comment on now, but want to add this post for any who are having a similiar problem:
i too am a new owner, hope you don't have to replace the breaker. My reconnection switch was frose up, not moving, except in the wrong direction and only on the spring. Was reluctant to take it loose, but did, and found you can take the front part off, reveleaing the snap mechanism, don't worry, no springs that fly out. the switch itself turned easy, put it in the far clockwise direction for 120/240 and reassembled it. Happy to say it now put out correct voltage and NO, I won't move it to see if the switch works.:D
 

reset2

Active member
182
71
28
Location
Myersville MD
Got to testing my 002 today. It was in the up position (120volt 1phase). Tested ok and curiosity got me and I flipped the switch. Now in the left position and not moving. Spring back and forth but doesn’t go past 8:30 clock. Going to spray some wd40 in a couple minutes to see if it loosens up. If not I will be getting my wire marker stickers out for a disassemble job.
 
Last edited:

Ray70

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,633
6,057
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Reset2, no need to remove any wires, just take off the side access cover and loosen the 2 long bolts that hold the switch assembly together (might have to remove the fuel tank to get at the bolt heads) after loosening the bolts you can spray some cleaner/lubricant into the switch mechanism sections and work it a little and most likely it will free up and work perfectly [thumbzup].... last thing you want to do is remove all the wires and try removing the switch! :doh: You have to be part contortionist and part magician to get it out. Not to mention its almost impossible to do with the AC box mounted on the generator!
 

cuad4u

Active member
268
89
28
Location
St Matthews, SC
I might as well weigh in too. Up until fall of 2013 I never even heard of a MEP generator. Several months ago I bought 4 MEP generators. I had no idea what I was buying or why. THREE of them had stuck reconnect switches (voltage / phase selector switches) either from the get-go or as soon as I turned them. I broke one switch trying to get it to move. That mistake cost me $500 to buy a used voltage / phase box to get that gen operating. On the other two stuck switches I had a bit more patience. On each switch I loosened the two 7/16 nuts on each side of the front end of the long bolts running the length of the switch. I used a small screw driver to slightly separate the metal "wafers". I sprayed PB Blaster into the cracks between the gold colored metal wafers on the front of the switch where the spring loaded detent mechanism is located. After several days doing this the switch still would not move. After a week with no success and with the two 7/16 nuts still loose, I took a 3/4 inch diameter 12 inch long brass drift rod, placed it against the metal spring loaded housing on the front of the switch, and gave the drift rod a couple of sharp "taps" with a hammer. Instantly both switches became operable. I guess the spring loaded detent mechanism got jarred loose from the hammer taps and the PB Blaster got "things" loosened up. I tightened the two 7/16 nuts and both switches now cycle as new. Your results may vary.
 

reset2

Active member
182
71
28
Location
Myersville MD
Thanks for the replies. I havent gotten back to the switch. Been out of town last couple days. I have sprayed the switch in the spring area but will try the light tapping trick. Ray70 your right what a job unhooking the wires. Not at that point yet and will hold out for some more alternate trys.
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks