MEP-002A acquisition

[n1oty]

I've been lurking for awhile now with special emphasis on reading everything that I could find on the MEP-002A and MEP-003A. Well, I think I may have hit paydirt. I acquired an 002 out of the auction at Letterkenny Army Depot a couple of weeks ago. I did NOT get a chance to preview it, but the photos looked good and I had a suspicion it was recently rebuilt because of the tattered cardboard box on top of the generator that revealed a new grounding rod and a new hammer for driving the grounding rod. Well, the generator arrived today with all ports sealed from some sort of rebuild. I found documentation that indicated it was serviced by Dyncorp International at ASLAC in Charleston, SC in April of 2009. This thing is pristine. The battery tie-downs were zip-tied to the generator and a new TM manual is in the plastic bag with all the battery accessories, including the jumper that goes between batteries. The inside of the fuel tank is nearly spotless!! No oil or fuel is present. Wish me luck this weekend as I pull apart the fuel filters and oil filter and generally prep this bad boy!!

John

 

[steelandcanvas]

I just had to do it. Congrats on your new green toy!

 

[gimpyrobb]

 

[n1oty]

A couple of photo's that were pulled from the auction listing.

 

[steelandcanvas]

May I ask what the final bid was?

 

[n1oty]

$800, plus the 10 percent.

 

[steelandcanvas]

$800, plus the 10 percent.

Not a bad price for essentially a new genset. Good luck this weekend and more photos please!

 

[Speddmon]

Nice score. You can clearly see in the pics that it was at least stored properly, with having the open ports covered with tape. And it's pretty visable in the first pic you posted, the depot rebuild sticker on the left side of the control box. You done good!

 

[n1oty]

I did not actually work on the gen set today, but did go over it carefully. This gen set has plainly not been used since refurbishment at ASLAC in Charleston, SC in 2009. The various coverings are aluminum wrap with cable ties or sometimes simply tape. As I stated, the fuel tank is empty and practically spotless on the inside. Besides the new copper ground rod and that special hammer for driving it, I found some goodies in the maintenance case with the TM. One of the goodies is an electrical adapter. It appears to be an adapter to go from the old NATO plug to the newer NATO plug. I'll grab a photo tomorrow if anyone wants to see it.

Tomorrow, I intend to open all the filter housings to check for the presence of filters and acquire any that need to be replaced. I wonder if the filters were replaced at refurbishment and oil/fuel simply left out?? Oh, I also found a lengthy piece of fuel hose, brand new and sealed, coiled up between the gen head and controls. I haven't measured it, but it must be 10 feet long and has a compression fitting attached to it by small chain.

John

 

[rogersn67]

Hi John, great score there! The fuel line is for the external fuel source. If you look by the fuel shutoff for the onboard fuel tank there is probably a fitting to attach it. All you will need is an external tank or can, that hose (bled out) and then swing the fuel shutoff lever to the position opposite the onboard fuel tank. Be careful to check that the handle is positioned correctly on the shut off, mine was 180 degrees off, and I was getting a but crazy trying to figure out why it kept starving for fuel.

Roger

 

[Keith_J]

The MEP-002/3As remote fuel is done from the labeled fuel pump on the right side. Also on the right side of the frame there is a hole in the gusset where the drum bung adapter is stored. There should be two lifting eyes bolted to this gusset on the 002, they are only stored there. The smaller one is for lifting the generator head, the larger one bolts to the engine's valve cover.

With the grounding rod storage there should be the extension for the drum bung adapter (55 gallon drum bungs are the same dimension as Jerry Can openings, use the drum bung adapter without the extension for Jerry Can fueling).

Remote fueling uses the float switch in the set tank to open a solenoid valve, allowing the remote pump to function. The remote pump likes to get corroded since it is often never used. Once a month, take off the cap of the pumps and clean them well. A spray down with WD-40 on the remote pump will keep it fresh.

 

[JAYHAWK 1962]

nice score

 

[n1oty]

I appreciate the information given in this thread, plus the wealth of info in other threads that I have gone through. I intend to go slowly so I do not screw something up.

I took some time this morning to go through the various filters and to take more detailed photos to share with you folks. On the filter front, it's a mixed bag. The air filter is present, new and dated during the refurb by Dyncorp. The oil filter is NOT present. I was unable to open the fuel filters because I do not have a strap wrench. I couldn't get my big channel locks on them because of the hoses. Many meters appear to be brand new. The fuel pumps appear to be original, but the IP looks to be brand new. I'm attaching some pics from today for your viewing pleasure. Since this appears to be a depot rebuilt generator, maybe I should chronicle each step. I know that I have seen other generators at Letterkenny that appeared just like this one.

John

 

[Keith_J]

The fuel filters are not spin-on. The filters remove by removing the center bolt on the top, the one with the small bleeder bolt on top. Look at the bracket the filters are mounted to, look down and see the bolts.

The strainer (first of 3 fuel filter canisters ) attaches from the bottom cone. See the acorn nut? Remove that, retaining the copper washer gasket. Yes, the filter bolts all have them. 15 PSI system there, no need for new ones unless abused, then any auto parts store brake cylinder copper washer will work.

Use o-rings for filter housings instead of the ring gaskets. They don't twist and they are fully confined so they won't blow out. DoD MEP specified cut gaskets as they were cheaper.

On the oil filter, you may find someone who converted to spin-on and buy their old one for cheap. I like the originals since I use round o-rings. NAPA has the filter with incorrect gasket for the body, it has the right one for the bolt (hard fiber outside, rubber inside).

Don't worry about the air filter unless you run it through a dust storm. They take pounds of dirt, then you can shake/blow them out and they are good for another few thousand hours.

 

[SCSG-G4]

There is also a cap to go on the external fuel tank (5 gallon can or 55 gallon drum) that the like screws into. The other end of the line goes on the bottom of the auxillary fuel pump, and to use it, you select 'prime and run, aux fuel'. That will keep the primary tank between full and 3/4 full during operation.

 

[n1oty]

The fuel filters are not spin-on. The filters remove by removing the center bolt on the top, the one with the small bleeder bolt on top. Look at the bracket the filters are mounted to, look down and see the bolts.

The strainer (first of 3 fuel filter canisters ) attaches from the bottom cone. See the acorn nut? Remove that, retaining the copper washer gasket. Yes, the filter bolts all have them. 15 PSI system there, no need for new ones unless abused, then any auto parts store brake cylinder copper washer will work.

Use o-rings for filter housings instead of the ring gaskets. They don't twist and they are fully confined so they won't blow out. DoD MEP specified cut gaskets as they were cheaper.

On the oil filter, you may find someone who converted to spin-on and buy their old one for cheap. I like the originals since I use round o-rings. NAPA has the filter with incorrect gasket for the body, it has the right one for the bolt (hard fiber outside, rubber inside).

Don't worry about the air filter unless you run it through a dust storm. They take pounds of dirt, then you can shake/blow them out and they are good for another few thousand hours.

Thanks for the heads-up on the fuel filters. I'll take them apart and check them out this week sometime. Meanwhile, I need to get new batteries and an oil filter. I've found references here and on youtube to converting to a wix spin-on oil filter. I'll have to give that some thought as well. I have only just begun reading the TM in earnest.

John

 

[n1oty]

There is also a cap to go on the external fuel tank (5 gallon can or 55 gallon drum) that the like screws into. The other end of the line goes on the bottom of the auxillary fuel pump, and to use it, you select 'prime and run, aux fuel'. That will keep the primary tank between full and 3/4 full during operation.

I'll have to look around for that cap. I presume that the military would issue that cap along with the length of hose they coil up and supply with the generator. This gen appears to be complete except for the need to add an oil filter, oil and fuel. I presume that's how they are configured when refurbed and placed in storage.

John

 

[Speddmon]

Thanks for the heads-up on the fuel filters. I'll take them apart and check them out this week sometime. Meanwhile, I need to get new batteries and an oil filter. I've found references here and on youtube to converting to a wix spin-on oil filter. I'll have to give that some thought as well. I have only just begun reading the TM in earnest.

John

Unless someone else started making them without my knowing, I'm the guy you need to talk to about the spin-on oil filter conversion. The kit is not as cheap as the OEM filters, by any means, but I like it and have it on my generators. And as one member who bought one from me stated, "I don't mind dealing with the cartridge filters, but 1 leaking canister during a 4 day outage and I was sold."...He then promptly bought a kit from me.

 

[n1oty]

Unless someone else started making them without my knowing, I'm the guy you need to talk to about the spin-on oil filter conversion. The kit is not as cheap as the OEM filters, by any means, but I like it and have it on my generators. And as one member who bought one from me stated, "I don't mind dealing with the cartridge filters, but 1 leaking canister during a 4 day outage and I was sold."...He then promptly bought a kit from me.

If you are the guy with the Youtube video, then you are the guy I need to speak to. I've read about some of the issues that can happen with the military oil filter. I'm most concerned with potential leaks and easy accessibility to oil filters. I assume the thrust of your conversion is primarily designed to address these two issues. When you have a moment, PM me the pricing.

Thanks,
John

 

[iam4thapack]

If you are the guy with the Youtube video, then you are the guy I need to speak to. I've read about some of the issues that can happen with the military oil filter. I'm most concerned with potential leaks and easy accessibility to oil filters. I assume the thrust of your conversion is primarily designed to address these two issues. When you have a moment, PM me the pricing.

Thanks,
John

There is a link in his signature that will take you to the classifieds section with pricing etc.