MEP-002A acquisition

[Keith_J]

Using o-rings instead of flat ring gaskets positively ends oil leaks. The joint is fully confined, meaning the canister forms a tenon while the gasket/o-ring is in a groove. Such a joint is perfectly suited to an o-ring but will cause issues with flat/square profile gaskets.

To the DoD, it is all about cost. With Viton o-rings, they last for at least 5 years or that many changes. The oil filter is pretty easy, fuel filters are a major pain. Professional tip? Pull the filter bracket and fuel lines. No need to stand on your head to properly seat filter gaskets. Or use o-rings there too..

I ran the company generator section and had some busy-body NCO argue that pulling the filter bracket was outside of the organizational level on the MAC chart. They tried to instill in me an "FTA" attitude.

 

[storeman]

That is one fine unit and a great buy compared to prices lately.
jerry

 

[n1oty]

OK. Appreciate all the info. I'm going to consider my options with regard to the oil filter. I plan on checking out the fuel filtering over the next couple of days. If all goes well, I may try to fire this beast up this Sunday.

John

 

[rogersn67]

The MEP-002/3As remote fuel is done from the labeled fuel pump on the right side. Also on the right side of the frame there is a hole in the gusset where the drum bung adapter is stored. .

Oh man, my bad, sorry for the wrong info. I was thinking of my 28 volt genny!

 

[n1oty]

Update:

I opened all three fuel filter canisters and they are all empty. Apparently, the ASLAC refurbished MEP's are drained of fuel/oil and those filters are left out. I'm not sure why they installed a new air filter at the time, but I won't complain. I went to my local Auto Zone today armed with my shopping list of filter part numbers gleaned from this and other sites. First problem. None of the filters were in stock. Bummer!! Counter help took my order for the filters and said they'd be at the store within 3 business days. I did pick up two Group 51R batteries.

Frankly, I am considering replacing the original fuel filter canisters with a common fuel/water separator and fuel filter. I'm not a purist in regards to this generator and I can see that these filters may be a pain in my butt. Ditto for the oil filter. I am seriously toying with Speddmon's filter conversion just to make my life easy.

I'm off to study the TM a bit more. Keep the suggestions coming.

John

 

[steelandcanvas]

You can find the filters for your genset at NAPA.

 

[Keith_J]

NAPA may catalog the filters but not every store carries them. I'm sticking with stock filters all around since I will keep fresh, clean fuel in my generator. About the only issue with stock filters are the cork gaskets on top and bottom which can decompose. Change every five years, even if you run them 8 hours a day for years, the final two filters will not clog in five years. Well, if you are filling the tank from open containers in dusty areas, you may have issues...

 

[n1oty]

NAPA may catalog the filters but not every store carries them. I'm sticking with stock filters all around since I will keep fresh, clean fuel in my generator. About the only issue with stock filters are the cork gaskets on top and bottom which can decompose. Change every five years, even if you run them 8 hours a day for years, the final two filters will not clog in five years. Well, if you are filling the tank from open containers in dusty areas, you may have issues...

Based on some of the posts I found on this site, I opted to order the Fram CH6PL oil filter and some of the Fram C1125PL fuel filters. I misspoke when I said that all three fuel canisters were empty. The first one with the strainer had that in place. I simply need to install the two fuel filter elements and the oil filter element.

On another note, I read in the FAQ that many folks run 15-40 Diesel grade oil in their gen sets. I run full synthetic diesel oil in my Dodge pickup truck. Does anyone see any potential problems with running my full synthetic oil in this gen set???

John

 

[Keith_J]

I would stick with conventional oils which have sufficient ZDDP as these are flat tappet (not roller) cam engines. And the injection pump is also cam actuated, once per revolution.

As synthetics are CJ+ and later (C is for compression engines, the second letter is the revision in API) and ZDDP is suspected to interfere with diesel particulate filters, selective catalytic reduction etc in post 2006 engines, its level is declining in later C motor oils like CJ+. Other extreme pressure packages have been added but many engines now use roller tappets.

Synthetic is recommended in some direct injected engines since these have pistons cooled by oil jets. Crown temperatures in these pistons can run right at the ragged edge for conventional oils, especially on those modern engines with high positioned top rings to reduce emissions. The MEP diesel engines have none of those issues, especially the indirect injected engines. Furthermore, the 002/003As have very large oil coolers. Since IDI engines have flat pistons and primary combustion happens in the head, heat isn't an issue in the pistons.

What do I recommend? Mobil Delvac 1300 because the 1300 is the minimum phosphorous concentration in parts per million. ZDDP is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. The dithio means two sulfur atoms, dialkyl is just two paraffin hyrocarbons. ZDDP is most commonly measured by measuring the zinc and phosphorous since sulfur is present in most oils and the rest of the molecule isn't distinct. Most oil manufacturers don't list ZDDP concentration as that is a trade secret.

 

[joesco]

A word of advice, don't make any mods to the filter systems until you get old iron running and producing power and power on a load. Once you are confident you have a solid and dependable running unit, go with Tom's spin-on oil adapter kit for starters. Good luck!

 

[n1oty]

A word of advice, don't make any mods to the filter systems until you get old iron running and producing power and power on a load. Once you are confident you have a solid and dependable running unit, go with Tom's spin-on oil adapter kit for starters. Good luck!

I am not performing any mods to this gen at the moment. The oil filter and fuel filters will be here later in the week, so I should be able to fire up this weekend for a test. Any mods that I may consider will be after it runs and I know there are no problems.

John

 

[n1oty]

I would stick with conventional oils which have sufficient ZDDP as these are flat tappet (not roller) cam engines. And the injection pump is also cam actuated, once per revolution.

As synthetics are CJ+ and later (C is for compression engines, the second letter is the revision in API) and ZDDP is suspected to interfere with diesel particulate filters, selective catalytic reduction etc in post 2006 engines, its level is declining in later C motor oils like CJ+. Other extreme pressure packages have been added but many engines now use roller tappets.

Synthetic is recommended in some direct injected engines since these have pistons cooled by oil jets. Crown temperatures in these pistons can run right at the ragged edge for conventional oils, especially on those modern engines with high positioned top rings to reduce emissions. The MEP diesel engines have none of those issues, especially the indirect injected engines. Furthermore, the 002/003As have very large oil coolers. Since IDI engines have flat pistons and primary combustion happens in the head, heat isn't an issue in the pistons.

What do I recommend? Mobil Delvac 1300 because the 1300 is the minimum phosphorous concentration in parts per million. ZDDP is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. The dithio means two sulfur atoms, dialkyl is just two paraffin hyrocarbons. ZDDP is most commonly measured by measuring the zinc and phosphorous since sulfur is present in most oils and the rest of the molecule isn't distinct. Most oil manufacturers don't list ZDDP concentration as that is a trade secret.

This is a very interesting post. I've been sold on the lubricity of synthetic oil in my 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 for years now. It actually lowered the operating temperature a few degrees in my turbo diesel when I made the switch. I would have thought that old and new engines alike would benefit, but your post gives me pause.

On another note, do you know how many microns the Fram fuel filters will filter down to??? I'm hoping at least 10 microns. If not, I may add an aftermarket fuel filter arrangement.

John

 

[gimpyrobb]

I would stick with conventional oils which have sufficient ZDDP as these are flat tappet (not roller) cam engines. And the injection pump is also cam actuated, once per revolution.

As synthetics are CJ+ and later (C is for compression engines, the second letter is the revision in API) and ZDDP is suspected to interfere with diesel particulate filters, selective catalytic reduction etc in post 2006 engines, its level is declining in later C motor oils like CJ+. Other extreme pressure packages have been added but many engines now use roller tappets.

Synthetic is recommended in some direct injected engines since these have pistons cooled by oil jets. Crown temperatures in these pistons can run right at the ragged edge for conventional oils, especially on those modern engines with high positioned top rings to reduce emissions. The MEP diesel engines have none of those issues, especially the indirect injected engines. Furthermore, the 002/003As have very large oil coolers. Since IDI engines have flat pistons and primary combustion happens in the head, heat isn't an issue in the pistons.

What do I recommend? Mobil Delvac 1300 because the 1300 is the minimum phosphorous concentration in parts per million. ZDDP is zinc dialkyldithiophosphate. The dithio means two sulfur atoms, dialkyl is just two paraffin hyrocarbons. ZDDP is most commonly measured by measuring the zinc and phosphorous since sulfur is present in most oils and the rest of the molecule isn't distinct. Most oil manufacturers don't list ZDDP concentration as that is a trade secret.

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/engine-drivetrain/16019-engine-oil-mythology-debunked-zdp-content.html

 

[Keith_J]

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/engine-drivetrain/16019-engine-oil-mythology-debunked-zdp-content.html

Spark ignition (SM) oils. This is a diesel discussion. At least one manufacturer of diesel engines has had issues with CJ/CJ4/CJ+ oils with respect to tappet wear.

Now the MEP-002/003 series are probably safer when run properly (no idle) since it is the reciprocity failure in the PV (pressure-velocity) factor at idle speeds (pressure remains the same, velocity falls, wear increases due to collapse of oil film) which causes the majority of wear. In other words, speed is required for hydroplaning. Idle speed can cause loss of hydrodynamic lift.

Synthetic oils fare little better in this boundary layer regime. Their main benefit is thermal stability but they still decompose at boundary layer regimes with high PV factors.

 

[n1oty]

I have everything ready except for the filters which will arrive tomorrow. I have opted to run Rotella T6 full synthetic oil. I have weighed all the points here and I envision getting more benefits than problems going this route, given that this generator is designed to always run at speed.

On another note, I came across an interesting government/military study from the early 80's regarding some issues with military diesel generators. I've never seen reference to it here or other diesel generator sites, so I am posting the link in case others wish to read it.

http://www.dtic.mil/cgi-bin/GetTRDoc?Location=U2&doc=GetTRDoc.pdf&AD=ADA151273

Thanks,
John

 

[Keith_J]

T6 in the CJ-4 variant has adequate levels of extreme pressure anti-wear agents for flat tappet engines. Remember, the 002A engine is stroking the injection pump 1800 times a minute. It takes about 200 pounds of force from that cam to generate the 2000 PSI at the injector. Far more load than the valve springs.

This oil is a 5 weight base with viscosity index improvers for the 40 weight. Watch oil pressure when hot and 100+ hours on the oil. Thankfully the engine has an oil cooler. Onan recommends 15W-40 for normal (20-100 F) temperatures.

 

[n1oty]

T6 in the CJ-4 variant has adequate levels of extreme pressure anti-wear agents for flat tappet engines. Remember, the 002A engine is stroking the injection pump 1800 times a minute. It takes about 200 pounds of force from that cam to generate the 2000 PSI at the injector. Far more load than the valve springs.

This oil is a 5 weight base with viscosity index improvers for the 40 weight. Watch oil pressure when hot and 100+ hours on the oil. Thankfully the engine has an oil cooler. Onan recommends 15W-40 for normal (20-100 F) temperatures.

I went back and forth as to whether I wanted to use the Rotella T6 in the 5W-40 range or the Wolf's Head full synthetic diesel oil in 15W-40. Since it is already cooling off as we progress through fall and winter is just around the corner, I figured this might actually be better for a generator that may sit cold for long stretches with zero degree nights. I may switch back to a 15W-40 in the spring.

Thanks,
John

 

[coyote62ny]

i have a mep-003 and use 15-40 rotella oil year round my gen set always starts in fact last winter here in new york we had some days it never got to 0 on one of these days i started my 003 for my neibor it was 0 that day and i just gave it an extra 30 seconds preheat started right up no problem this new oil aint as good as they say i have a ford my brother is a ford diesel tech and i asked him about using the synthetic oil he told me you can if you want to buy a new engine i know that that synthetic 2 stroke oil has trashed a lot of chain saws i work on them and see it all the time new aint always better stick with what the military recomends just my opinion

 

[n1oty]

i have a mep-003 and use 15-40 rotella oil year round my gen set always starts in fact last winter here in new york we had some days it never got to 0 on one of these days i started my 003 for my neibor it was 0 that day and i just gave it an extra 30 seconds preheat started right up no problem this new oil aint as good as they say i have a ford my brother is a ford diesel tech and i asked him about using the synthetic oil he told me you can if you want to buy a new engine i know that that synthetic 2 stroke oil has trashed a lot of chain saws i work on them and see it all the time new aint always better stick with what the military recomends just my opinion

I've never liked 2-stroke engines to begin with, so have little time actually playing with them. On the other hand, I have a lot of time with diesel engines over the years. My 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with Cummins turbo diesel is now over 240,000 miles with the vast majority on 15W-40 full synthetic. For these type of engines, I am sold on full synthetic, but I am waffling on the weight spread. I do not like an overly broad range on viscosity. Nothing that I can definitely put my finger on, it's just that wide ranges suggest to me a lot of compromise in the formulation.

John

 

[rogersn67]

I've never liked 2-stroke engines to begin with, so have little time actually playing with them. On the other hand, I have a lot of time with diesel engines over the years. My 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 with Cummins turbo diesel is now over 240,000 miles with the vast majority on 15W-40 full synthetic. For these type of engines, I am sold on full synthetic, but I am waffling on the weight spread. I do not like an overly broad range on viscosity. Nothing that I can definitely put my finger on, it's just that wide ranges suggest to me a lot of compromise in the formulation.

John

John, be careful of using full synthetic on an engine that is already broken in, the seals and such will actually shrink after switching from regular to synthetic. I found out after running full sythetic in my truck. It took a while to figure out why I had all the leaks suddenly, after switching to a blend, the seals swelled up to there old size again, and leaks went away. I do run full synthetic in my jeep, but I rebuilt the engine on that, and it has always had it from hour 1 after the rebuild... Just my