MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[Guyfang]

Another tip.

If the TM's are hard to read, indistinct, look at the MEP-003A TM's. There are no real differences between the models, other then a few parts.

Also, the wire diagrams are more up to date in the 003A books. For that matter, the 003A books were more often updated, and tend to have the newest NSN, part number and info, if there has been any changes.

 

[Tinstar]

I use the spray DeOxit electrical cleaner. It helps to remove oxidized tarnish off the contacts & lubricates the switch points. Yes, the switch is hard to turn by design. Be careful to not manhandle it...fast hard torque twisting can damage or break it. I usually start by rocking the switch back & forth with increasing pressure until it reaches enough pressure to rotate (breakover point).

Ok good
I switched it back and forth a few times but didn’t gorilla handle it.

Another tip.

If the TM's are hard to read, indistinct, look at the MEP-003A TM's. There are no real differences between the models, other then a few parts.

Also, the wire diagrams are more up to date in the 003A books. For that matter, the 003A books were more often updated, and tend to have the newest NSN, part number and info, if there has been any changes.

Good to know
Will do just that.
Thanks

 

[Tinstar]

Filters arrived today.
Cleaned the canister bolts and sealed the top bolt.
The “rust stained” filter base turned out to be anodized that color.
The copper washers look to be a special shape washer.
I didn’t have new ones so I heated them up and annealed them.

New canister gaskets were installed of course.
The two filter base gaskets were a breeze to install.
The strainer canister base gasket was a nightmare. Took me 20 minutes. Didn’t want to tear or cut it. I do have spares.

If this unit runs and makes power I will be doing the spin on filter conversion.

Cleaned out all the hoses and check valve.
Check valve is working correctly.

Waiting on the strainer canister threaded rod to arrive.
Battery’s are still inbound.
I would use the slave cable port but don’t have the two pin adapter yet. It should be here tomorrow.

Getting close.

 

[Ray70]

Bet you can almost Smell the diesel exhaust already!
She'll run... all 002's and 003's do eventually!

 

[Tinstar]

Lots of busy work today.

Took off the battery cables and cleaned the contacts and added fresh shrink sleeve to the ends.
Also removed the fan shroud and exhaust shroud/flaps.
Removed more mud dauber nest and blew everything off with the air hose.

Used air to blow out the oil cooler. Then used a jet water nozzle to wash out any dirt then blown dry.
If your supposed to be able to see light through it, then mines still clogged.

Reassembled everything and replaced a missing bolt on the flap shroud

Fuel tank is as clean as I can get it.
She baked in the sun today and is completely dry inside.
Will install tomorrow and top off with fresh fuel
.
Lots of parts/spares arriving tomorrow.

I’ll see if the hardware store has stainless threaded 5/16-18 rod so I can install the strainer canister. Getting a bit anxious
Took out busted rod today and it put up a good fight. Had to use heat and even then thought it would snap. Wasn’t cross threaded, just stubborn.

Will change oil and filter after machine gets hot, if it starts and runs. (Edit: Already checked for water in oil pan and oil filter canister)

I’m almost ready


Edit for pic

 

[Tinstar]

Bet you can almost Smell the diesel exhaust already!
She'll run... all 002's and 003's do eventually!

I’m ready to hear it run, but I’m not rushing.
Don’t want to miss a step anywhere.

 

[rickf]

You might want to at least open the oil drain just a hair to see if any water comes out. If it does then you will want to do the oil change first. Condensation will put water in the oil over time. You don't want to pump water through it after all you have done.

 

[Tinstar]

You might want to at least open the oil drain just a hair to see if any water comes out. If it does then you will want to do the oil change first. Condensation will put water in the oil over time. You don't want to pump water through it after all you have done.

Already done and surprisingly no water came out.
I was fully expecting it.
Did both the pan drain and canister drain.
Obviously it needs changed now but would prefer to do so when oil is hot.

I didn’t buy extra fuel and oil filters since if it runs, I will be doing the spin on adapter conversion.

 

[Tinstar]

Installed new Fuel hose from IP to check valve. It’s a Cummins part number and included in the pics if anyone needs one. It’s for a 003A I think but works.
Also installed new oil pressure gauge.
Original one had water and rust inside.

Installed clean fuel tank and is hooked up again.

2 pin NATO plug adapter didn’t show up today and battery’s are still days away.

That will give Thread sealant used on tank fittings to set up a bit.

Still waiting on air cleaner parts and new air filter.

Also arriving was new lug nuts for the missing trailer ones.
A NOS electrical lug wrench.

 

[Chainbreaker]

You're a get-n there!

BTW, I had to replace the same fuel line (ck valve to IP) on my recently acquired #5 genset & another of my gensets a while back. Thats the most common fuel hose to develop a leak/weap due to the somewhat abrupt 180 turn at bottom. Next time one of mine develops a leak in that hose I might go with a SST aircraft line there.

Yep, your almost there...I can almost see the first puff of white smoke coming out your exhaust now!

 

[Tinstar]

I went ahead and drained the oil from the pan and filter canister.
Oils cheap (compared to engine) and that oil has been in there for years.
Will leave filter on there for now.

I will do a complete change after/when she runs. She’s almost ready.

Making up a connection cable for in between the two battery's now.

Also found a NOS circuit breaker for the 120v outlets. It’s inbound also.

NOS grounding rod kit and Auxiliary fuel hose kit also ordered from a SS member.
It’s on its way now.

Kinda in limbo after that until rest of parts arrive.

 

[rickf]

I was hoping you would change the oil, it is only a couple quarts and like you said cheap compared to the engine. You have no idea what was in there.

 

[Tinstar]

Well I hooked up a set of heavy jumper cables from the CUCV to the 002a
Fuel system finally bled and have fuel coming out of IP fittings including up at the injectors.
So far no go.
She cranks fine and has good oil pressure but so far nothing. Not even smoke.
Fuel shutoff solenoid is working and lifts up when cranking.
It ran for a few seconds on a shot of ether, but haven’t done that again.
Troubleshooting now while taking a break.

 

[Tinstar]

She lives.
Bled the IP again and it started right up.
Lots of air was still in the IP
Weird part was that there was never any smoke when trying to start it. No smoke when it finally started.

Not running well.
Had it basically at idle.
Brought rpm’s up and it’s smoothed out a lot.
Hz meter is pegged on panel bit at only 49hz from plug outlet.

 

[rickf]

Definitely get your frequency up to 59-61 Hz or you can burn up the VR. Those old meters are notorious for being wrong.

 

[Tinstar]

Well the easy part is done.
Now the hard part is figuring out what supposed to read/do what

It was showing 120v at the outlets and 240 on the panel gauge. Hz was 48-49
Increase engine speed to raise HZ and it raised voltage.
The glass fuse by the injection pump was blown.
Have to get more tomorrow.

Good news is everything engine/fuel related worked as designed.
Cooling vents opened a bit.
Valve cover was quite warm but you could leave your hand on it no sweat.
The longer it ran, the better it ran.
Have 2cycle oil and SeaFoam in the fuel.

Tons of mud dauber nest in the stator.
Huge dirt cloud while running

 

[Tinstar]

 

[nextalcupfan]

Definitely get your frequency up to 59-61 Hz or you can burn up the VR. Those old meters are notorious for being wrong.

I believe that's really only for the MEP-8XX series.
You can idle the 0XX Series with no load on them.
Though I think its still best practice to set it to 60 hz and leave it there.

 

[rickf]

If you idle them the voltage regulator will keep trying to increase the voltage until it burns out. I was told that years ago when I first got mine, never idle it!!!!
One thing I don't remember seeing in this thread was if the fuel pumps were ever checked for flow and or cleaned? I am guessing that since everything else was that they were but it is sounding almost like a lack of fuel to the injection pump and if those fuel pumps were full of water then they ae most likely seized up and need to come apart.

 

[Tinstar]

If you idle them the voltage regulator will keep trying to increase the voltage until it burns out. I was told that years ago when I first got mine, never idle it!!!!
One thing I don't remember seeing in this thread was if the fuel pumps were ever checked for flow and or cleaned? I am guessing that since everything else was that they were but it is sounding almost like a lack of fuel to the injection pump and if those fuel pumps were full of water then they ae most likely seized up and need to come apart.

Pump filters were removed and cleaned. Thought I mentioned it earlier.
All 3 are working great and plenty of flow.

I screwed up by not cracking the fuel line inlet at the injection pump.
This basically jammed air inside is my guess.
Initially had fuel at the injectors then nothing.
Removed valve holder and valve from IP and turned pumps on.
LOTS of air came out.
Reinstalled everything and it fired right up.

I ordered a NOS voltage regulator in case it’s needed. Can’t hurt to have extra.