MEP-002A Exhaust Question plus Machine Resurrection

[Tinstar]

New one and Old one.

 

[Ray70]

Correct! As mentioned in the original post that transducer is not meant to be a drop in replacement, but rather an affordable / available substitute.
There was a time when the originals were still available in NOS form, but at an insane price of close to $500!
For the sake of drilling a couple holes you probably saved about $485

 

[Tinstar]

Correct! As mentioned in the original post that transducer is not meant to be a drop in replacement, but rather an affordable / available substitute.
There was a time when the originals were still available in NOS form, but at an insane price of close to $500!
For the sake of drilling a couple holes you probably saved about $485

I knew it wasn't a drop-in part and would require drilling.
It was very easy to install.
Just posted the pics and info for anyone else who's interested and might need to do same thing.
Definitely a plus on the money part. I never found a NOS exact replacement part anyway.

My Fluke and Kill-a-watt meters show the Hz rock steady, but Hz gauge still wavers.
Not a lot, but enough to bug me.

I've seen videos of other units that show a stable, steady needle and others that move like mine.

Oh well.

 

[Tinstar]

I did a three hour load test yesterday and it did fantastic.

Started light and worked up the load.
Held 100-110% for well over an hour no sweat.
Even did a 120% load for about 20 minutes and it finally kicked the breaker. (Edit: Main Breaker)
Was a warm day (90+) and breaker reset fine and continued to handle a 90-100% load just fine.

It didn't smoke as much as I thought it would.
It did clear up a lot, but I have two-cycle oil in the fuel, so it never cleared up completely.

The Hz and voltage held just fine.
Engine sounded great and was even louder when under 100% load.

Very happy with it and worth the investment

Still need to clean crankcase breather, install NOS Slave Port w/cables, install NOS cylinder head temp sensor. and install NOS Control Panel
Will also change oil and filter.


A Huge Thank You to everyone who helped with parts, advice and wisdom.

 

[rickf]

When you say it kicked the breaker are you doing the load test from the convenience outlets?

 

[Guyfang]

I did a three hour load test yesterday and it did fantastic.

Started light and worked up the load.
Held 100-110% for well over an hour no sweat.
Even did a 120% load for about 20 minutes and it finally kicked the breaker.
Was a warm day (90+) and breaker reset fine and continued to handle a 90-100% load just fine.

It didn't smoke as much as I thought it would.
It did clear up a lot, but I have two-cycle oil in the fuel, so it never cleared up completely.

The Hz and voltage held just fine.
Engine sounded great and was even louder when under 100% load.

Very happy with it and worth the investment

Still need to clean crankcase breather, install NOS Slave Port w/cables, install NOS cylinder head temp sensor. and install NOS Control Panel
Will also change oil and filter.


A Huge Thank You to everyone who helped with parts, advice and wisdom.

You did all the work!

 

[Light in the Dark]

I did a three hour load test yesterday and it did fantastic.

Started light and worked up the load.
Held 100-110% for well over an hour no sweat.
Even did a 120% load for about 20 minutes and it finally kicked the breaker.
Was a warm day (90+) and breaker reset fine and continued to handle a 90-100% load just fine.

It didn't smoke as much as I thought it would.
It did clear up a lot, but I have two-cycle oil in the fuel, so it never cleared up completely.

The Hz and voltage held just fine.
Engine sounded great and was even louder when under 100% load.

Very happy with it and worth the investment

Still need to clean crankcase breather, install NOS Slave Port w/cables, install NOS cylinder head temp sensor. and install NOS Control Panel
Will also change oil and filter.


A Huge Thank You to everyone who helped with parts, advice and wisdom.

You will also want to replace the LOP sensor, if you havent done so (and put one in the parts box in your garage). The 00x are real robust machines.

 

[Tinstar]

When you say it kicked the breaker are you doing the load test from the convenience outlets?

No
I’ve used those to check readings, but as your well aware, it’s only 15A

It kicked the main breaker.
I did have it close to 125% for an extended period on a hot day.

It would handle short surges past the 125% no sweat.
But I can’t expect it to do 120+% for almost 30 minutes without it tripping.
I’m sure others do so regularly without issue.
Now I know it’s limits.

I will never operate it there beyond the occasional load surge.

It did exactly as I had hoped.

 

[Tinstar]

You will also want to replace the LOP sensor, if you havent done so (and put one in the parts box in your garage). The 00x are real robust machines.

I will do just that.
The one on there now looks original.

 

[Tinstar]

You did all the work!

With a lot of Help/guidance from you guys !!!

That’s what made this successful!

 

[Chainbreaker]

As far as how the MEP-002/003 Main Breaker works you should read this Sticky by Sewerzuk if you haven't already. It explains a lot & dives pretty deep into characteristics of that breaker. I need to re-read it myself again as I've forgotten a lot of what was said. Be sure to read the sticky all the way through as it has nuggets of information that are explained in various ways throughout the conversations back & forth.

Happy to hear your load test was successful! I'm about ready to do that with my recent acquisition of my #5 genset. I just finished yesterday removing the "Hillbilly battery tray" that was on it & replacing with complete OEM battery tray I purchased off eBay recently. Looks a lot better than the plywood, 2x6's & bungies that held the batteries in place before.

 

[Tinstar]

As far as how the MEP-002/003 Main Breaker works you should read this Sticky by Sewerzuk if you haven't already. It explains a lot & dives pretty deep into characteristics of that breaker. I need to re-read it myself again as I've forgotten a lot of what was said. Be sure to read the sticky all the way through as it has nuggets of information that are explained in various ways throughout the conversations back & forth.

Happy to hear your load test was successful! I'm about ready to do that with my recent acquisition of my #5 genset. I just finished yesterday removing the "Hillbilly battery tray" that was on it & replacing with complete OEM battery tray I purchased off eBay recently. Looks a lot better than the plywood, 2x6's & bungies that held the batteries in place before.

I did read that sticky.
Very interesting and great info.

 

[Tinstar]

So a while ago I ordered a NOS slave plug with
Cables.
My intention was to replace whole unit as the original cables look horrible.
They work fine, just look terrible.
Doing a NSN search, I found and ordered the NOS part.

When part arrived, the positive cable is the same length as the original, but the negative cable is much shorter than original. At least half.
It will not come close to reaching the starter ground as the original one does.
Positive cable will reach.

Question is, does the negative cable have to go to starter or just be grounded?
If just grounded, to engine block or frame?

 

[98G]

So a while ago I ordered a NOS slave plug with
Cables.
My intention was to replace whole unit as the original cables look horrible.
They work fine, just look terrible.
Doing a NSN search, I found and ordered the NOS part.

When part arrived, the positive cable is the same length as the original, but the negative cable is much shorter than original. At least half.
It will not come close to reaching the starter ground.
Positive cable will reach.

Question is, does the negative cable have to go to starter or just be grounded?
If just grounded, to engine block or frame?

I'll look at mine tomorrow if someone else doesn't beat me to it.

 

[Guyfang]

If I remember right, and its been a while since I put my hands on a set. But the neg terminal goes to ground, (P55W2) then a ground wire (P55Y2N) goes from there to the starter.

 

[Tinstar]

The original one on there now, the cables are almost identical length.
The positive is a tad longer with a Flag terminal on it and the negative cable is about an 1" or so shorter with a ring terminal on it.

NOS one is the same in all aspects, except the length of the negative cable.
Double checked the part number and NSN and they both point to the NOS part I have.

Doesn't really matter if I have to make another cable, as long as I have it hooked up correctly.

 

[Guyfang]

What NSN did you use?

 

[Ray70]

Unless I'm missing it, the TM's seem to be terrible as far as showing the battery and slave port cable routings, but without looking at one of mine, I believe the slave port negative goes to the back of the ground stud on the frame just behind and left of the slave port.
Then another separat wire runs from that same stud over to the negative on the starter where the battery negative attaches.
The slave port positive runs right to the starter.

As far as the negative goes you can attach it anywhere to the chassis, engine, whatever and you should have a good path back to battery negative, assuming all your other wires and ground straps are in place.
If in doubt, attach it to the block somewhere since the starter will be your biggest current draw.
If you attach it to the frame and your ground strap across the motor mount is missing or broken and the ground from starter - to the frame is missing you will have cranking issues trying to start it from the slave port.

 

[Guyfang]

Yes, it is supposed to go to the back side of the ground stud. I thought long and hard about it all day. Then wire # P55Y2N runs to the starter, I think.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Just out of curiosity... is the plan to use the MEP-002's slave port with your CUCV? If so, do you need to use a 2 pin to 1 pin Nato adaptor to use Nato slave jumper cable?

I'm considering buying a Nato slave cable to enable jumping one genset off the other if the need arises. However, that would require me to purchase (2) 2 to 1 pin adaptors plus a ~12ft Nato slave jumper cable as well. Alternative I guess... is to buy a long set of automotive jumper cables which would be significantly less expen$ive.