MEP-002A fuel pump

[TroyHog]

Could you guys tell me how to bench test these fuel pumps. I am still trying to get my gen set back going after algae and tank contamination. I have took the tank off and cleaned it and I removed the pumps to clean but upon inspection they look really good. Screens are clean, but one did seem to have a ball valve stuck.
Anyway I primed them and put a hose on the inlet to see if they would operate on the bench but nothing. I was using a 20v lithium battery from my drill with alligator clips and either grounding to the case or the (diode?) strap.

The hot lead would spark but no action in the pump. Am I doing this wrong?

 

[Guyfang]

Its an RFI filter. They go bad, sometimes. Why don't you use the slave recpt on the gen set, to power the pumps? I would soak them for a day or two, in a bucket full of solvent, or something else to try and maybe loosen up the pump works inside the pump. Take the bottom cap and filters off, and let them sit. The attachment shows how to take them apart. Not hard. Make sure they are clean inside. Then put them together and jump them with 24 volts. Not you drill battery. If they just spark, the pumps may still be clogged up, or the RFI filter is bad. If the RFI filter is bad, cut it off and try jumping them off again.

 

[Ray70]

Definitely sounds gummed up to me. Take it apart and clean everything and reassemble and should be good.
Pay close attention to #9 and the downward tip of #11, those are check balls and need to move freely and seal properly in order for it to pump fuel.
Give it 24V and it should click rapidly when free flowing with no back pressure.
Clicking should slow down as pressure increases and flow volume decreases.
If this came out of a machine and it wasn't popping the DC breaker the EMI filter is probably good, but as Guy noted it's unnecessary and can be cut of if desired.

 

[TroyHog]

Thanks for the help guys. A couple questions: I couldn't see a way to remove the pump after I took 2-10 out? Am I missing something there? It looks like the base is threaded but I was pretty sure I would tear it up trying to rotate it.

I took the pumps to work with me because we have a nice heated shop at work (someday ... ha).

I will try to follow instructions given. Would it be good to soak them in the stuff we cleaned the tank out with? It was an acid based solvent.

Question #2 - Is there a replacement market for these?

Thanks

Troy

 

[Ray70]

Once 2-10 are removed just bang the bottom of the pump on a block of wood and the plunger should drop out of the center "Tube" if I recall, but it's probably gummed up in there, so you may have to soak it in acetone / carb cleaner first.
It's just a metal slug that vibrates back and forth within that tube magnetically.
If by chance you can't fix yours you can replace it with a whole number of 24V electric pumps including Airtex E8131 or E8135 as well as the other "knock-off" pumps, but for $40 just go with Airtex... the cheaper ones won't last long.
You will need to adapt the airtex 1/4" NPT threaded inlet to outlet to the 5/16" JIC / -5AN female hoses, but the 90* fittings screwed into your old pump can be removed and reused.

 

[Guyfang]

Keep in mind, if you use a E-Pump that is different then the original, and want to have two pumps in series, like it was designed to be, they need to be able to pass fuel through them, even if one failed. Or, just install one pump, and its a non problem. How about your third pump? The Pump for AUX fuel. Is it good? If so, you could install it in place of the other pumps, to get your set running, until you have the other two pumps sorted out. The flow through design is a fail safe. If one pump fails, the other is more then able to deliver fuel to the system.