MEP 002a Gauges not reading

[ForwardOB]

Hello
I recently purchased a MEP 002A with 12 hours on it. The engine starts up fine and I can power up a heater with it. All three gauges are pegged to the low side. I am geting a reading of 110v of the outlet and I am able to adjust it but not to 120. I have downloaded the manuals. Any ideas on where to start?
This is a great forum and I tried to go through the previous posts.
Thanks

 

[Kenny0]

Are you talking about the oil pressure, engine temp and the fuel gauges? Does the hour meter work? Use a test light (24volt) or meter to make sure juice is getting to the gauges, does not need to be running for this, but the switch needs to be in the run position. Check and see if the panel lights work. Check circuit breakers and fuses behind the panel, check and make sure there is a ground between the panel and it is good condition. Look in the manuals wiring diagrams to see if it could be a fuse.

 

[Chainbreaker]

Are you talking about the oil pressure, engine temp and the fuel gauges? ...

He's talking about a MEP-002a not a MEP-802 (I think, unless he has a typo). Although most of your recommendations for troubleshooting still apply!

 

[Chainbreaker]

Have you opened the Control Box front panel and taken a look inside? That's where I would start. Disconnect your negative battery ground lead, then open control box and make sure there are no wires inside hanging free (disconnected or unterminated) Look at the screw terminals on the back of every gauge and make sure they are connected and tight. I would then take a screw driver and make sure all the TB (terminal block) screws holding all wires in place are snugged up and gently tug on wires to make sure they are all attached to the spade terminals. Then check the braided ground strap between the outside bottom of control box is properly grounded and tight. Also, pull out/push in and exercise the emergency stop breaker on panel. That's just a start to eliminate the obvious.

 

[Guyfang]

A little more info is needed please.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Are you set to 120, 120/240, or 208?

 

[jamawieb]

Now with the 002a the hertz meter is notorious for failing due to the transducer. The voltage gauge and hertz gauge are the only 2 that will work with the initial start up. The percent load gauge will not move until a load is applied. You have to make sure the reconnection switch is pointed to the 120/240 position and the vm/am switch on the front panel is pointed to L1-L3, L3, 1 (reading from the top to bottom). The reconnection switch is located under the door beside the main breaker on the output box (where the lugs are located) Don't move the reconnection switch with the unit running.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Yeah the hertz gauge is crap on my Tier 2 002A.. less than 15 hours since they rebuilt it, and it was dead the day I received it. I just use a Kill-a-watt for it, and all my testing of my other gennies.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Now with the 002a the hertz meter is notorious for failing due to the transducer. The voltage gauge and hertz gauge are the only 2 that will work with the initial start up. The percent load gauge will not move until a load is applied. You have to make sure the reconnection switch is pointed to the 120/240 position and the vm/am switch on the front panel is pointed to L1-L3, L3, 1 (reading from the top to bottom). The reconnection switch is located under the door beside the main breaker on the output box (where the lugs are located) Don't move the reconnection switch with the unit running.

I was going to wait for his answer, but I think the problem here might lie in improper settings of either reconnection switch or VM/AM as well.

 

[Kenny0]

oops

 

[Kenny0]

He's talking about a MEP-002a not a MEP-802 (I think, unless he has a typo). Although most of your recommendations for troubleshooting still apply!

Yes, I misread that. Thanks for pointing it out.

 

[Hectorsosa]

I'll start by saying I'm still a newbie on this site, so if somebody else chimes in listen to them. That said, when I got my unit the PO started it up with a bit of throttle then idled it down once it was running. Not only did I not understand this was a bad thing to do, but the issue was compounded by a bad replacement Hz meter that read 68 Hz when the unit was actually running at 60. Do you have a kill-a-watt or a multimeter that can measure Hz? I ask because if the unit isn't at proper rpm it could be causing problems.

 

[Guyfang]

It would appear that ForwardOB left the house.

 

[Chainbreaker]

It would appear that ForwardOB left the house.

Yeah, and it appears he snuck out while we were all talking amongst ourselves!

 

[ForwardOB]

Are you talking about the oil pressure, engine temp and the fuel gauges? Does the hour meter work? Use a test light (24volt) or meter to make sure juice is getting to the gauges, does not need to be running for this, but the switch needs to be in the run position. Check and see if the panel lights work. Check circuit breakers and fuses behind the panel, check and make sure there is a ground between the panel and it is good condition. Look in the manuals wiring diagrams to see if it could be a fuse.

Thanks for responding. I mean cycles, load and volts. I'll check the hours meeting. The panels light is working. I have to admit I was not grounding the unit so I will try that first. If that does not work I will poke around behind the panel. I just got my cycles meter in the mail and tried it on the house electricity. I may take me a few days to get to playing with it. Hope the hurricane doesn't hit Boston

 

[ForwardOB]

Hello Again
And thanks for the advice. I have had time to work on it again and get more information. The unit starts up. I can load it with a 500 Watt light. Battery gauge works. Frequency meter pegs at over 65 (an auxiliary meter read 56). Load reads 0 and voltage read 0. I have not yet had a chance to adjust the engine speed to see if that ups the frequency. Any advice on getting the voltage and load meters reading and the frequency meter reading normally?

 

[Light in the Dark]

You need to make sure your throttle cable is pulled out fully, and reverify. Not running it at proper speed will​ cause failures. Don't do anything till you do that.

Edit: And if its pulled out, dial it back with the rotation portion of this control, to get you back to 60hz. If your gauges are known to not read correct, pick up a Kill-A-Watt meter and plug it into the convenience outlet. It will tell you precisely what your instantaneous hertz and actual voltage measurements are.

 

[Light in the Dark]

What is your voltage switch set at (hidden behind a panel, near the breaker which sends power to the lugs)? How about the AM/VM on the operator control panel... is it set to match what your voltage switch is set to?

 

[Light in the Dark]

When you say you can power a 500w light... is that through the convenience outlet? Or by lugs?