storeman
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Keith,
If you have gone that far, why not make it remote control?
jerry
If you have gone that far, why not make it remote control?
jerry
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Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
MEP 002A is ALIVE!
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Keith_J
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Don't think that has not crossed my mind, Jerry! That and using 4-5 electric lawn mowers pulled by it (with a 20 amp 28 volt power supply also driven off the generator) would make it a diesel-electric lawn mower 
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Or make a new class of miniature tractor pulling? The diesel-electric class? Tim Taylor and Red Green have nothing on me
.
. Or make a new class of miniature tractor pulling? The diesel-electric class? Tim Taylor and Red Green have nothing on me
.
Keith_J
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The MEP-002A is now officially SELF-MOBILE!!! The $9 pneumatic drive wheels needed a special touch to make them interface with the keyed 3/4" transaxle. These are Zytel (fiberglass-nylon) wheels with Carlisle Turf-Saver tires, meant for large fertilizer spreaders, having only 7/64" cross pin for torque which would not work here. I used 3/4" bore keyed couplings, welded to a massive 3-1/2" washer that was drilled for 8 bolts on a 3" bolt circle and match drilled onto the wheel's web.
The transaxle has 4 pairs of bolting holes, 2 pairs are used for the 1/2 Hp 24 volt motor. The other two are for mounting to a pair of 2x8s in the rear forklift pocket, using some brackets welded from 1-1/2" square steel tube.
The front wheels were casters that I modified with steering knuckles made from 1-1/2" square tube. A tie rod connects the two knuckles and in between, a draw bar pivots to effect steering. This system works fine for smooth ground but pulling 1000 pounds in my soft backyard is a workout. And I cannot get it into the generator shed without help, hence the powered wheels.
I still have to make a pulse-width modulated speed control and some sort of transmission control as the transaxle is a 2-speed with reverse. All controls will be on the t-bar draw handle. The transaxle has a brake but aside from a chain drive failure, the need is just not there.
The motor draws 5 amperes unloaded, the most I saw during testing is 12 amps. It is rated at 22 amps, giving 24 foot-pounds of torque at 110 RPM. That is like a 16 Hp gas engine so this thing should climb walls.
The transaxle has 4 pairs of bolting holes, 2 pairs are used for the 1/2 Hp 24 volt motor. The other two are for mounting to a pair of 2x8s in the rear forklift pocket, using some brackets welded from 1-1/2" square steel tube.
The front wheels were casters that I modified with steering knuckles made from 1-1/2" square tube. A tie rod connects the two knuckles and in between, a draw bar pivots to effect steering. This system works fine for smooth ground but pulling 1000 pounds in my soft backyard is a workout. And I cannot get it into the generator shed without help, hence the powered wheels.
I still have to make a pulse-width modulated speed control and some sort of transmission control as the transaxle is a 2-speed with reverse. All controls will be on the t-bar draw handle. The transaxle has a brake but aside from a chain drive failure, the need is just not there.
The motor draws 5 amperes unloaded, the most I saw during testing is 12 amps. It is rated at 22 amps, giving 24 foot-pounds of torque at 110 RPM. That is like a 16 Hp gas engine so this thing should climb walls.
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LuckyDog
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THAT is impressive. Nice work.
storeman
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Great job Keith.
Keith_J
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Revisiting this thread to report on the performance of the generator and running gear. I moved 19 months ago, now living in the hills. I store the generator in the shop which is about 100 yards from my shade tree mechanic spot. Well, I have to move the generator from the shop to the shade tree mechanic spot and the generator cart makes that EASY. If a bit slow. But in high gear, it is safe pace. It has to be in low gear for some of the climbs, the motor is barely adequate. I guess running the chain at such high speed is consuming a lot of torque. Still no issue with draining the 51R batteries over that haul.
I will need new front tires, the cheap Chinese ones do not last more than two years. Dry rot and cracking. The rear Carlisle tires look brand new. They all leak air a bit, even with Slime in them. But since I do monthly PMCS run-up, it isn't an issue.
I will need new front tires, the cheap Chinese ones do not last more than two years. Dry rot and cracking. The rear Carlisle tires look brand new. They all leak air a bit, even with Slime in them. But since I do monthly PMCS run-up, it isn't an issue.
R Racing
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Do you have a pictures of the whole set up?
Keith_J
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Guess I should, been fighting a nasty head cold for three days but the sun is shining. If I can get to it, seeing how the oldest boy was overhauling a trailer and dropped everything in front of the shop, has not been seen for a day.
TexAndy
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Red Green, huh?
I don't see any duck tape on that.
Don't sell yourself short either, Angus.
I don't see any duck tape on that.
Don't sell yourself short either, Angus.
Keith_J
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Finally felt good enough to do the monthly run up, and now having space, here are the pictures
Keith_J
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The switch on the handle is a directional switch, forward and back. Steering is through the wagon handle, it could have a bit more throw but with the directional control switch, multi point turns are easy. Power comes from the slave port, I just plug the single wire into the socket. There are NO modifications to the skid or generator, all mounting is through the forklift pockets.
In low gear, it climbs a 15% grade. Or ramp load into a trailer. It has problems with uneven ground as the front axle does not pivot, leading to one wheel spinning. The t bar handle is stout enough to where a bit of torque will get the spinning wheel on the ground.
yes, it needs paint. But since it lives in the shop, and it will never see outdoors overnight, I don't care. I do keep it running, at least once a month to op temp and check output. It running properly is enough beauty for me.
In low gear, it climbs a 15% grade. Or ramp load into a trailer. It has problems with uneven ground as the front axle does not pivot, leading to one wheel spinning. The t bar handle is stout enough to where a bit of torque will get the spinning wheel on the ground.
yes, it needs paint. But since it lives in the shop, and it will never see outdoors overnight, I don't care. I do keep it running, at least once a month to op temp and check output. It running properly is enough beauty for me.
TexAndy
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R Racing
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That's 1 neat set up you got there !!!!
Keith_J
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When I get around to it, the front wheels need swapping out to something. A bit more durable and wide.