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MEP- 002a losing 24v power at start-up?? POWER ISSUE SOLVED!

Ray70

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You don't need that gear retainer. just the plunger guide and the seal kit.
You can also buy the seals a lot cheaper if you locate individually, but the kit is easier.
Other than that there's nothing else needed.
 

Cm131

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You don't need that gear retainer. just the plunger guide and the seal kit.
You can also buy the seals a lot cheaper if you locate individually, but the kit is easier.
Other than that there's nothing else needed.
@Ray70
Thanks for the info and price savings. Big difference. However I can’t find the sr8515 anywhere! I have had mine out and looked ok but would like to have a spare. Do you know of a retailer that carries them?
 
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Ray70

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Well, I had previously started typing you a message telling you to not worry about the SR 8515 spacer, but since you were looking at buying the kit, it comes in the Ambac rebuild kit, so I deleted that sentence!
However, it is not necessary at all. It just helps hold the delivery valve in place while you assemble the spring and cap.
It's helpful when repairing a pump on the machine, but it's unnecessary and a waste of money if rebuilding it vertically on a bench.
It is literally a paper thin plastic ring that they charge $30 for at Ambac.
A dab of grease works just as good if the pump is horizontal.
 

Cm131

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Well, I had previously started typing you a message telling you to not worry about the SR 8515 spacer, but since you were looking at buying the kit, it comes in the Ambac rebuild kit, so I deleted that sentence!
However, it is not necessary at all. It just helps hold the delivery valve in place while you assemble the spring and cap.
It's helpful when repairing a pump on the machine, but it's unnecessary and a waste of money if rebuilding it vertically on a bench.
It is literally a paper thin plastic ring that they charge $30 for at Ambac.
A dab of grease works just as good if the pump is horizontal.
No problem. I ordered the parts separately as it was much cheaper except for sr8515. I now am waiting on parts. GMG seems to be pretty slow on shipping. I am still waiting for the capacitor for my VR!! Oh well. Now working on pop tester and should be able to try it out tomorrow. By the way. The TM said 1750psi used/rebuilt or 1950psi new.Do you have a recommendation for the pressure.
 

Ray70

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I tend to shoot for 1800-1900 PSI.
You'll probably find that depending on the discrimination of your gage as well as differences in how fast you apply the pressure, you will get a little variation in pop pressure every time you test it, so I don't bother trying to get super accurate. Just get it in the ballpark and you'll be fine.
I think with age the spring probably weakens, that's why they list a used injector as a little lower pressure.
Lots of times when I test them they are down in the 1400 - 1600 PSI range, that's why I pretty much always have to bump them up 1/4 to 1/2 turn or more on the adjustment screw.
 

Cm131

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Nc Charlotte area
I tend to shoot for 1800-1900 PSI.
You'll probably find that depending on the discrimination of your gage as well as differences in how fast you apply the pressure, you will get a little variation in pop pressure every time you test it, so I don't bother trying to get super accurate. Just get it in the ballpark and you'll be fine.
I think with age the spring probably weakens, that's why they list a used injector as a little lower pressure.
Lots of times when I test them they are down in the 1400 - 1600 PSI range, that's why I pretty much always have to bump them up 1/4 to 1/2 turn or more on the adjustment screw.
Perfect! I was originally thinking of shooting for the middle of 1750-1950. Of course I can’t wait see what they actually read!
 

Cm131

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@Ray70

YAY YAY never thought I would be so happy to find something broken. My plunger guide is split in half. Guess that’s why it runs like 🤬.New guide should be here today. However both injectors tested and popped at 1850ish each. Anything I should do to ensure that this new guide doesn’t break on start up. Seems everything is free. Just don’t want to over look something.
 

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Chainbreaker

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Congratulations on your perseverance in finding the problem! Yeah, I certainly understand the feeling of relief when you find the culprit after chasing down elusive issues.

As long as you assemble everything correctly you shouldn't have any issue. However, I would consider treating your fuel in the gensets day tank with a lubricity additive. I use Optilube XPD and any long term stored fuel gets Biobore JF + the Optilube XPD.
 

Cm131

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@Ray70

THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU !!!
she started right up and ran perfect for 3hrs. No issues with the starting,running of the machine.
NowI have yet more more issue. I was able to measure lugs butI’m only producing 120v from L3 to L0. The switch is set far right 120/220v. I measured the lugs with two different know good meters in every combination I could. However the panel meter reads almost correct but if I switch the ammeter/voltmeter to the
1
L3-L1
L3
Setting the volt gauges reads around 208
Seems it making the power?
voltage adjust knob works I can turn the voltage up and down.
I did notice that on my panel door that covers the lugs someone wrote
X over lug 1
L1 over L2
L2 over L3
N over L0
Not sure if maybe someone wired it to only do 120v??
Im going to also start a new thread for this issue.
 

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Cm131

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@Chainbreaker
Thanks a lot for your input and following me through this investigation. I got it running today and ran perfect. I now have a power output issue. See last response above.
thanks for the additive info I will be ordering it asap.
 
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