MEP-002A No Fuel and DC Breaker Popping

[Light in the Dark]

Well I haven't had time to circle back around on this one yet, but I did test the three inline receptacles... they should be 24/24/0V, correct? I got 24/24/100mv.

Does this point to a short?

Thoughts, gurus? I haven't had any time to play with any of my sets for a few weeks now.

 

[Triple Jim]

Sounds like normal voltages it was in the normal run position. The 1/10 of a volt is just stray voltage that your high impedance meter is picking up.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Sounds like normal voltages it was in the normal run position. The 1/10 of a volt is just stray voltage that your high impedance meter is picking up.

Great. Thanks for the reply. My 803s have been a breeze. Can't wait to hear this 002 fire up.

 

[robertsears1]

When I first fired up my 002, I was surprised by the amount of vibration compared to my 003. The sound is also very different.

Robert

 

[Light in the Dark]

Ok so I got out of work early today and farted around with it. When its in the prime position, its not making any sounds like my 803s do (actual pumps running and priming), or any clip I have heard on youtube.

So I think the rear pump is bad, as it causes the breaker to trip when hooked up. It seems that the first two pumps (primary and aux it appears) don't cause a trip. But I opened the bottoms of the pumps as mentioned, and they appeared to be clean filters.

Are the three items called out in the attachment, the items which need to be wired around?

 

[jamawieb]

Ok so I got out of work early today and farted around with it. When its in the prime position, its not making any sounds like my 803s do (actual pumps running and priming), or any clip I have heard on youtube.

So I think the rear pump is bad, as it causes the breaker to trip when hooked up. It seems that the first two pumps (primary and aux it appears) don't cause a trip. But I opened the bottoms of the pumps as mentioned, and they appeared to be clean filters.

Are the three items called out in the attachment, the items which need to be wired around?

Yes, just cut the wires on each side of C and connect them together. C should go to the secondary pump that is tripping the breaker.

 

[Light in the Dark]

As I dont hear any pumps running though... is it possible that ALL THREE pumps have failed at this suppressor? **** unit was rebuilt in 07 and has had 5 hours put on it before I got it. I am figuring something else is causing this. Maybe a bad ground or something.

I hope to get some time this weekend to go through the manual.

 

[rustystud]

As I dont hear any pumps running though... is it possible that ALL THREE pumps have failed at this suppressor? **** unit was rebuilt in 07 and has had 5 hours put on it before I got it. I am figuring something else is causing this. Maybe a bad ground or something.

I hope to get some time this weekend to go through the manual.

If your battery connections are not good they can cause the suppressors to go out. I had a sparking connection on my MEP-002 when I first got it. It blew the suppressors.

 

[Guyfang]

Have you hooked up a wire from the positive side of the batteries, straight to the electric fuel pumps? Test each one like that. THEN you know if the pumps work or not. If they do not work, cut off the suppressor, and re hook the wire back up, testing again. If they work, make a PROFESSIONAL connection, to repair them, and be happy.

If the pumps still do not work, think about getting new pumps. Also keep in mind, if your ground is NOT good, your pumps will NOT work. That's why the mounting hardware for the electric fuel pumps on the 002 and 003 REQUIRE serrated washers to INSURE good grounding.

 

[Light in the Dark]

If your battery connections are not good they can cause the suppressors to go out. I had a sparking connection on my MEP-002 when I first got it. It blew the suppressors.

The connections are seemingly fine and tight. Never know what happened before I got it though... so its possible some jamoke shorted something out and blew the whole line of them.

 

[jamawieb]

Now if your pumps are stuck, it was cause the suppressors to overheat and fail. I've seen this before. If I were you, I would take the bottom of the pump off and spray WD40 into it. Try also tapping on the pumps to get them unstuck.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Have you hooked up a wire from the positive side of the batteries, straight to the electric fuel pumps? Test each one like that. THEN you know if the pumps work or not. If they do not work, cut off the suppressor, and re hook the wire back up, testing again. If they work, make a PROFESSIONAL connection, to repair them, and be happy.

Stupid question... but wouldn't I have to cut the suppressor out first to accomplish this? In looking at the pumps, where the wire enters each has no way of disconnecting that I see. Before I just start snipping away... also whats the gauge of the wire used on this circuit (so I know what to source for replacement)?

If the pumps still do not work, think about getting new pumps. Also keep in mind, if your ground is NOT good, your pumps will NOT work. That's why the mounting hardware for the electric fuel pumps on the 002 and 003 REQUIRE serrated washers to INSURE good grounding.

I will look the grounding over thoroughy around the pumps. Where else should I inspect, in the control head?

 

[Light in the Dark]

I answered my own question... the gauge should be 16 for these particular wires. Just need to see if a Lowes/HD has any nice waterproof connector/splice accessories.

 

[Triple Jim]

Guyfang gave good advice, but I'll add to wear goggles if you run power straight from the battery to the pumps. A shorted suppressor capacitor can cause some big sparks!

 

[Light in the Dark]

So I cut out all three suppressors, and made a shunt cable to test all three input lines to each. Nothing. I then tested each back to the positive terminal that goes up to the starter, and none of the three made any additional noises to indicate they were running. This was at both the Prime and Run, as well as Aux Prime and Run positions.

All three appear to be well grounded with external tooth washers. Sounds like all three must have gone up in some single event? For now can I replace just a single with a new Facet unit (preferrably the position with aux input so I can run off my 55 gal tanks). I know to do it right I'd replace all three, but I would like to just get the unit going, and add additional pumps back online as I go.

Anything else I should be testing, or is this as conclusive as it seems? Thanks

 

[Triple Jim]

With the stock wiring and plumbing, you'll need two pumps to run from an external tank. One pump can be used in place of the redundant two used in the "run" position, but when you're using an auxiliary tank, the extra pump moves fuel from that tank to the built-in tank, not to the engine. A float valve in the built-in tank controls a solenoid valve to stop flow from the aux tank when it gets full.

Of course you could re-plumb things so one pump supplies the engine and bypasses the built-in tank.

 

[WILLYSOVERLAND]

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8051
here is a source for a new pump. they are 3/8" and have to be bushing down to 1/4. they have one way check valves installed so the fuel can be sucked right through the pump with the pump off.
this is not my company and I am only trying to help. I had a **** of a time finding pumps when I first started screwing around with these generators. good luck

 

[Light in the Dark]

With the stock wiring and plumbing, you'll need two pumps to run from an external tank. One pump can be used in place of the redundant two used in the "run" position, but when you're using an auxiliary tank, the extra pump moves fuel from that tank to the built-in tank, not to the engine. A float valve in the built-in tank controls a solenoid valve to stop flow from the aux tank when it gets full.

Of course you could re-plumb things so one pump supplies the engine and bypasses the built-in tank.

Two it is then. I want the ability to choose either setting, without reinventing the wheel. Thanks

 

[Light in the Dark]

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=8051
here is a source for a new pump. they are 3/8" and have to be bushing down to 1/4. they have one way check valves installed so the fuel can be sucked right through the pump with the pump off.
this is not my company and I am only trying to help. I had a **** of a time finding pumps when I first started screwing around with these generators. good luck

A touch easier to swallow than the OEMs at about $200 through some marine outfits. It appears that I would lose the filtration aspect in going with this style, over the Facet 480517E. How have you found these to perform in real world?

 

[rustystud]

A touch easier to swallow than the OEMs at about $200 through some marine outfits. It appears that I would lose the filtration aspect in going with this style, over the Facet 480517E. How have you found these to perform in real world?

I have used both and the "square style" is not even close to the quality of the "Facet Gold" round body style. You can find them for $100.00 even at this Pegasus auto racing store.