Mep-002a resurrected... mostly

[mtn man]

Previously reported getting this 2 off cl not running and stitting for years... 310hrs on the clock. found plunger in pump was broken. now she has a new injector pump... and a timing button added after try #1... she started but lots of smoking loaded or not. New filters and tank was cleaned. Just changed oil as well. I have another that is my back up and only smokes at start and under heavy load starts. Only thing different is I added a lot of marvel mystery oil... could that be the cause?

 

[dependable]

Marvel Mystery oil, or any other oil in fuel make added smoke.

 

[Triple Jim]

Also incorrect injector timing can make smoke, although I realize you just went through the timing procedure.

 

[dstang97]

How long did you let it run for? Do you think it could be more than bad glow plugs?

 

[mtn man]

Let it run for 2+ hours and I will say the smoke died down some. I checked the aux fuel pump and may run it off another source to try it again. I had to adjust the gov screw on fan end a little it was all the way in. I did the timing set per the TJ and had old pump and new to do the calculation with. Came up with the 14 button. On a restart it's a bit slow to pick up speed but holds 60hz with a air compressor running and the legs all read good on power.

Thats the first ip I've ever done. Was really worried I would mess up timing. Set on wrong stroke or something like that hopefully not considering it does run now.

 

[dependable]

Run out that oil laced fuel on the load tests you should do anyway, add more clean diesel as tank runs down. If smoke level goes down, your probably OK.

If you still have problems, sounds like you should re check the timing and/or timing button, as you mentioned.

 

[jamawieb]

I would say timing of the injector pump. I've actually had units that came straight from the military with the wrong timing buttons and smoke like a freight train. The smoke will usually smell like raw fuel and burn your eyes pretty good.
With the timing of the pump. Did you test the flow rate of the pump after the new pump was installed?

 

[mtn man]

I did not check any flow rate. Just did the calculation for button and having a install kit selected the correct button based on the numbers. .128 I think it was #14 button. I did pin it as the TM stated and lined up mark on the flywheel.

 

[jamawieb]

To make sure you picked the right button. (Flow rate test)
1st get the flywheel to the PC mark on the combustion stroke of cylinder 1
2nd take the injector line off number 1 cylinder
3rd take the delivery valve spring out of the injector pump
4th rotate the motor (by hand) counter clockwise just a little
5th turn the main switch to prime/run. When you do this, you will have fuel flying out of the injector pump where took off the injector line for cylinder one, so make sure you have a container to catch it. It shoots out about 3 feet.
6th turn the motor over slowly clockwise until the flow of fuel stops coming out the injector port for cylinder 1.
Now look at the flywheel marks, you should be on PC with no fuel. If the alignment mark goes past PC or stops before PC then your timing button is wrong. From my experience, if you have a lot of smoke, your mark will be past PC and it's dumping fuel after the compression stroke is over.

 

[mtn man]

Thanks for the info jamawieb looks like I have Work to do... it only it would have been as easy as I though. Been on other vacation projects and didn't get back to the gen set today. Hopefully soon though... I did try to start it and it wouldn't start... just chugged at low rpm before finally giving up... sounded like a old steam engine. My standby 2 will start easily and hits right off with correct rpms so really does look like timing is off.

 

[dstang97]

Any updates? Where did you buy the injection pump and install kit. Looks like gmg went up on their price recently.

 

[mtn man]

I haven't been able to work on it any more... I was on vacation when I got some 'old iron' time a couple weeks ago. Bought the pump and install kit with all the timing buttons from eBay. Hoping to get the 2 back in the garage soon though to do the previously recommended manual timing check soon...

 

[mtn man]

Back in the garage tonight to get this done... hopefully. I did try to start again with no luck... so going to go through the previously supplied timing check and see how it goes... really have to get this project wrapped up and make someone a great running generator.

 

[mtn man]

Did the manual check and pulled the valve cover. Fuel did not come out going around what I think is comp stroke. Fuel squirts out when exhaust valve is closing and intake valve is opening. Appears timing is like two turns off...?...?

Are outer valves with long rockers the exhaust valves and inner valves with shorter rockers the intake valves? (Note I realize the could be a really dumb question... although pitting my neck out on it to ask. I checked the book long ago and though I had that right...

going to to do some reading now....

 

[jamawieb]

Did the manual check and pulled the valve cover. Fuel did not come out going around what I think is comp stroke. Fuel squirts out when exhaust valve is closing and intake valve is opening. Appears timing is like two turns off...?...?

Are outer valves with long rockers the exhaust valves and inner valves with shorter rockers the intake valves? (Note I realize the could be a really dumb question... although pitting my neck out on it to ask. I checked the book long ago and though I had that right...

going to to do some reading now....

Cylinder 1 is closet to the blower. If I remember correctly the valve that is on the outside right, closet to the blower, is the exhaust port. The rocker that is longer is the exhaust. When rotating the motor over by hand, wait until you see the intake valve close, then look at the flywheel unit you see PC. If the exhaust opens, you've gone to far. After your on PC, then turn the motor backwards (counter clockwise) about 10 degrees. Make sure the delivery valve spring is removed from the injector pump and you have the throttle linkage at the upper position (wide open throttle). Then turn the fuel pumps on, you should have fuel flowing out the number 1 port on the injector pump, then rotate the motor clockwise until the flow of fuel stops or drips slowly out the port.
If you don't see fuel rotate the motor over by hand slowly, keeping an eye on the flywheel markings. If your way past PC almost to A. Then the pump is out time, move the motor back to PC and remove the pump, checking the timing mark on the pump is at the correct position.

 

[mtn man]

Sorry for delay but hadn't had a chance to work on the generator again. Did the manual check again... realized I had the wrong no.1 cylinder... in the end timing is dead on... but still no start. Pulled both injectors and cleaned them (unit had set for years so though that could be issue,although ran after I put IP on to began with)... still no start. Some smoke puffing out the exhaust... shut off solenoid is working correctly... am I missing something simple? How do I check compression? Worried now I have a burnt out piston....

Any support is welcome and a thanks to those whom have already supported.

 

[dstang97]

Jump the oil pressure sensor. Crack the injectors and get the air out.

 

[jamawieb]

Keep cranking to get all the air out. Sometimes it takes a while to get the air out of the lines. If you start getting a lot of white smoke out and still no crank, the timing of the IP is still off.

 

[mtn man]

Ohh bummer time... looks like number one is either piston or rings... on comp stroke air blows through injector port and out the oil fill.... bummer. Now to repair or part out that is the question. I still have my good one that I use so that's good and can always use a few parts.

 

[mtn man]

Going to part out! Keep a few little things for spares and part out the rest! Just paid for my premium Membership, only $15! I couldn't believe its that cheap! Solid investment for this forum!