mep 002a will not start with a warm engine

[new kid on the block]

Hello all, I have read a lot of good reviews here about the mep's. So that was my decision to go with for a standby sysstem. I bought it from a reseller on ebay. I thought I was getting a turn key unit ready to go. Sad to say I found out different. First issue I found was the output selector was frozen in 3 phase position. Thanks to the posts here I have worked past that. Now what I do not know is [why will the unit not start with a warm engine?] Started fine cold. I would think it would be just the opposite, hard to start cold and good to start warm. The engine cranks over with zero sign of starting. I really do not know much about diesel engines to begine with. Just a guess could it be some kind of vapor lock? Do diesel engines even get vapor lock? Merry Christmas to all.

 

[Triple Jim]

Maybe try ruling out a defective overtemperature switch that trips too soon.

The same Christmas wishes back to you and your family!

 

[gimpyrobb]

How about the (fuel shutoff)plunger not retracting while hot?

 

[new kid on the block]

Thank you for a rapid response. That thought did come to mind. It could be that I am wrong. When I looked at the schematic it shows the overtemp switch in line with the low oil cut out switch. So I figured just as the unit will start, and run as long as the switch is held in the start position regardless if the oil or high temp switch are made. That the high temp swich would not be the problem. Only in the run position do either of the switches shut the unit down at least as faras I know.

 

[new kid on the block]

Ah never gave that one a thought. Could you please tell me, what is the best way to check that? Can I see it just by looking?

 

[Munchies]

If you have a helper have them start it and watch the throttle arm/solenoid area and make sure the solenoid retracts, if it DOES retract, make sure the throttle arm goes all of the way up on its own. If it does not retract, figure out why, a fault in the circuit or a faulty protection device...?.. Overtemp sensor, relay, intermittent start switch, and a few other things come to mind.

 

[Isaac-1]

A little more information might help, is it shutting down on its own or do you just turn it off, how warm are we talking, how long have you let it run? If it is something sticking in the injection pump you might want to add some marvel mystery oil or ATF to the diesel fuel to help lubricate and free up the sticking point.

Ike

 

[jamawieb]

More than likely it's going to be your IP linkage or IP shutoff solenoid not retracting.

 

[1800 Diesel]

If you rule out the linkage issue, I would lean toward a fuel delivery issue for now. Check fuel flow to IP. Check for good fuel return flow. To verify IP function, crack lines at injectors & observe fuel flow while cranking. Also check all hoses for any pinholes or leaking fittings that could cause air to enter the system. I assume it's safe to say you verified the transfer pumps are running when you attempt the restart?

It's a long shot but if you confirm fuel is getting to the cylinders, you may want to check compression on each cylinder. Borderline bore diameters will provide adequate compression for ignition, but after temperatures rise, bore diameters increase & the compression level can decrease to a point to make the engine run with reduced power or will shut down completely.

Hopefully, it's just a simple problem you can get resolved quickly. With the good folks on this site helping out, you will get to the bottom of it.

Kevin

 

[doghead]

Has it been serviced lately?

New fuel filters and all the fuel pump screens cleaned?

 

[Harleyd315]

Take the fuel cap off and make sure the vent is open or try it with the fuel cap loose. Merry Christmas to all!!!!!

 

[new kid on the block]

More information: The unit is not shutting down on its own, I am turning it off. The first time I ran the unit for an hour. The next run, a week later was 45 minutes. I thought the shutters were not opening right, they would open a little, not wide open. I pulled the thermal unit and tested it per the TM. It tested I would say good. The TM states that the travel of the plunger should be 13/64, I measured 12/64. I now have many things to check out. Thank you all for your most helpful ideas. I plan to check fuel lines, conectors, low pressure pump, fuel cut off, etc. Not necessarly in that order. The fuel cut off seems to be the most likely suspect, and it makes sence to me even with my limited experience. I know I will not get to work on the unit today or tomorrow. As soon as I do get the chance to work on it and check things out I will be sure to all know the results. Thank you all for your help! It is more than a little comfort to know there are still some good people in this world.

 

[new kid on the block]

As far as i can tell it was serviced. It did look like fresh oil and filters. I plan to check myself to be sure.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I would start with the fuel shut-off solenoid. Get some of the Berryman b12 cleaner.

 

[new kid on the block]

gimpyrobb, Where do I get Berryman b12 cleaner? Would the auto parts store have it? I have not heard of that cleaner before. Is it a fuel additive, or an external type of cleaner? Thank you

 

[Rapracing]

gimpyrobb, Where do I get Berryman b12 cleaner? Would the auto parts store have it? I have not heard of that cleaner before. Is it a fuel additive, or an external type of cleaner? Thank you

Walmart has it. Check in the area of fuel & oil additives.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Pepboys near my house is where I get mine.

 

[new kid on the block]

OK I had a chance to check the problem out. The fuel shut off solenoid is lifting. The throtel arm is not lifting. I have not searched the TM yet. I take it that the throtel arm is actually lifted by another solenoid? Munchies listed a few items to check. Sad to say schematics are electrical trouble shooting are not my strong point. Would it be possible for some one to please help guide me on just where and what to test?

 

[Munchies]

If the solenoid is lifting and lowering as it should and the throttle arm is not raising, you found your problem. No more electrical work.
Is the spring attached to the governer adjustment screw?
Can you raise the throttle arm with as crew driver or is it tight? and hard to raise?
If it is hard to raise corrosion has set in around the throttle lever inside the pump and will need to be cleaned out, polished, and lubed.


You NEED the TM here! its really easy to find stuff after a few minutes of poking around. Get the PDF of the -34 TM and go to the governor adjustment section...

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yeah, if the IP has locked up, you should expect to need at least a drive-washer(if its the newer version of the IP), maybe some other parts.