Mep 003 converter frequency needed

[Jferg65]

Mep 003 part A3 converter, frequency needed

Am looking for part labeled "A3" frequency converter that is located on the back panel of the control box. Mine is missing. I had my Killawatt P3 hooked to it and was getting a frequency number around in the 70's and it was putting out 179 volts. I am not able to adjust the voltage via the adjustment knob.

At any rate, I will start with my most obvious issue at the moment. Any help in locating one would be much appreciated.

 

[Nonotagain]

VR board is in need of repair.

Plenty of posts by SPEDDMON on repairing the component In question.

 

[Jferg65]

I have read most of the threads ad did see the one about the voltage regulator board by SPEDDMON. Anyone know who has these on their shelves at the moment.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Your fairly close to a wanted ad. Might want to talk about the issue some more.

 

[Speddmon]

I have read most of the threads ad did see the one about the voltage regulator board by SPEDDMON. Anyone know who has these on their shelves at the moment.

One of what? The VR board, you'll be MUCH better off paying for the $5.00 transistor and repairing the board rather than buying a new board...even if you could find one.

As for the frequency transducer, there again, unless you plan to keep it 100% factory, don't waste your money. Buy one of the Kill-a-watt meters and use it, or replace the frequency gauge with a cheap frequency meter from e-pay. You can get one that is digital and only needs a 120 volt source to operate it. There are plenty of places inside the control box to pick up 120 volts and you would only need to retrofit the meter onto the control panel

 

[Jferg65]

I have the kill a watt meter already. So I'm good to go there. I'll head back to the search function as well as the TM's and go from there. Thanks for the input.

 

[Isaac-1]

How about turning the throttle knob down some, get it to the right frequency (about 62Hz no load, which will droop to 60 Hz with load), then as Speddmon says change out the $5 transistor on the VR board, before going in search of the several hundred dollar almost impossible to find working voltage regulator board. Anyone with basic soldering skills can change it out in about 5 - 10 minutes, takes longer to remove the board from the cabinet than it takes to swap out the transistor. (the one that is the likely suspect is the big one that is bolted and soldered to the board).

Ike

 

[Jferg65]

Thanks Ike. I'll drag her back out if it's not raining tonight and give it a go per your suggestions and go from there. $5.00 versus several hundred is no brainer at my end. I have seen the frequency meters SPEDDMON has recommended on flea bay, looks like an easy fix there.

I haven't had the chance to pull out the wiring diagram of the control head, but at this point I have numerous wires where the frequency transducer once was, now hang'in in the wind. I need to get those secured/taped off.

 

[Isaac-1]

If you have numerous wires hanging, chances are something else is disconnected also.

Ike

 

[Jferg65]

Going from memory here I think there are four and they all appear like they were connected on either side of part of the frequency transducer.

 

[Speddmon]

you should have 4....two of them would have been the 120 volt feed wires, and 2 of them would have gone to the meter

 

[Jferg65]

That sounds like the perfect place to pick up the power for the aftermarket frequency meter.

I was poking around the net and found one that was said to be both the transducer and gauge in one unit made as replacement for the mep2and3's. Not sure if it ok to indicate the name of the place so I won't. At any rate it is also indicated it is made in the US. Sounds like it probably costs a ton of money as well.

Unless someone thinks this is a better fix, I'm all in on the after market digital gauge.

 

[Isaac-1]

The only downside I see to the digital meters is that many of the cheap ones are hard to read in direct sun light.

 

[couchilla]

One of what? The VR board, you'll be MUCH better off paying for the $5.00 transistor and repairing the board rather than buying a new board...even if you could find one.

As for the frequency transducer, there again, unless you plan to keep it 100% factory, don't waste your money. Buy one of the Kill-a-watt meters and use it, or replace the frequency gauge with a cheap frequency meter from e-pay. You can get one that is digital and only needs a 120 volt source to operate it. There are plenty of places inside the control box to pick up 120 volts and you would only need to retrofit the meter onto the control panel

Spedmon can you suggest a good place to hook up a 120 v freq meter in the control box. I was thinking about drilling a couple holes and hooking it to the convenience plug until I read this thread. Thanks

 

[Speddmon]

Spedmon can you suggest a good place to hook up a 120 v freq meter in the control box. I was thinking about drilling a couple holes and hooking it to the convenience plug until I read this thread. Thanks

Just use the 2 wires the feed the current frequency transducer, X9H16 and X12H16. If you are adding an aftermarket frequency gauge, you obviously won't be needing your OEM transducer; so those wires will be free to use and they are 120 volts all the time, no matter the position of any switches.

 

[edgephoto]

That sounds like the perfect place to pick up the power for the aftermarket frequency meter.

I was poking around the net and found one that was said to be both the transducer and gauge in one unit made as replacement for the mep2and3's. Not sure if it ok to indicate the name of the place so I won't. At any rate it is also indicated it is made in the US. Sounds like it probably costs a ton of money as well.

Unless someone thinks this is a better fix, I'm all in on the after market digital gauge.

Care to share your source for this meter? If not here maybe via PM?

 

[Speddmon]

It is OK to share sources like this. others may be able to make use of it

 

[couchilla]

The only downside I see to the digital meters is that many of the cheap ones are hard to read in direct sun light.

Just use the 2 wires the feed the current frequency transducer, X9H16 and X12H16. If you are adding an aftermarket frequency gauge, you obviously won't be needing your OEM transducer; so those wires will be free to use and they are 120 volts all the time, no matter the position of any switches.

Thanks. Do you know why the military chose the complicated expensive transducer and meter when a simple reliable inexpensive meter works fine? I assumed it was because the voltage on those wires changed with the voltage selector switch.

 

[storeman]

Digital is routine to you. Before you were born there was analog and mechanical (direct drive) (where i grew up). These units were built before digital existed in common use. Analog was state of the art and was thought to be cool.

Golly, I feel old.

Jerry

 

[couchilla]

Care to share your source for this meter? If not here maybe via PM?

Battlegrade Electric has one on his sight that looks like OEM it is just a 120 volt 55-65 analog meter like the Yokagawa. It is made by Hoyt in the USA and is pricey $200 or so. You can get the Yokagawa for under $100.