Mep 003 injection issues

[GASCANS001]

I recently picked up a clean unit with no rust with 289 hours

I know it sat for a long time so I assume I have varnish/stiction going on

so far:

Entirely new fuel delivery system all new line filter based filters and lines

when I crank it I’m getting very little smoke

if I give it a small sniffle of ether she fires up stumbles for about a minute then runs at 1800rpm

I hear injector knock so I’m assuming the injector on either 3-4 is sticking

I searched for new or nos injectors with everything coming back as sold out or obsolete

Side note I’m getting fuel dripping in my return to tank. Using a remote setup to control fuel and additives to the lift pump without using stock nasty tank.

Do I have an ip or injector issue or a combo of both?

on a hot start it’ll puff black and it appears it isn’t getting enough rpm from the starter to actually get it going I’m thinking a stuck plunger in the ip causing the hard to start.

I’ve bled the system best that I can. When I did I wasn’t getting a good squirt of fuel more like a few drips.

what’s a good cleaner to add in the fuel? Watched a guy dump a gallon of silver bottle diesel Kleen to about 2 gallons of fuel and it cleaned his system right up on a cat c15 or cat 3406b

 

[rickf]

Have you cleaned the filters in the bottom of the pumps?

 

[GASCANS001]

Have you cleaned the filters in the bottom of the pumps?

new pump to isolate any underlying fuel delivery issues

 

[GASCANS001]

After I let it cool off it was able to start again by itself no glow and no ether

I added 12oz of atf to about 2 gallons of fresh fuel. I’m trying to get some atf in the injection system to help break ip that gunk

since then it’s been about 3 hours since I shut it last off and when I fired it up I’m now getting a nice stream back to the tank with the return line.

it ran well then shut its self off went to restart and it’s giving me black smoke and what appears to be only running on 1-2 cylinders will post updates as I get them

 

[rickf]

These are not multifuels, you might want to go back to clean diesel and some Power Service fuel additive or similar diesel additive. These will not run on high concentrations of oil like a multifuel. ATF is actually designed NOT to burn so you will end up with all kinds of deposits on the injectors.

 

[GASCANS001]

These are not multifuels, you might want to go back to clean diesel and some Power Service fuel additive or similar diesel additive. These will not run on high concentrations of oil like a multifuel. ATF is actually designed NOT to burn so you will end up with all kinds of deposits on the injectors.

Gotcha! I’ve heard adding power service or a similar injector cleaning by filling the filter full of it running said cleaning then shutting off letting it sit and starting it the next morning

 

[2Pbfeet]

I use SeaFoam for this sort of issue. As you wrote, fill the filter(s) and run the SeaFoam into the engine and then let it sit.

All the best,

2PbFeet.

 

[GASCANS001]

I use SeaFoam for this sort of issue. As you wrote, fill the filter(s) and run the SeaFoam into the engine and then let it sit.

All the best,

2PbFeet.

100% pure sea foam?
Drop the filter pour out the fuel refill with sea foam run for 5-10 to get it into the system shut down let sit over night start again in the morning?
You wouldn’t use something like diesel kleen, hot shots extreme diesel, etc?

 

[2Pbfeet]

I think that the various cleaners are about the same, but, yes go for your favorite. The filter worth is not going to get very far. It will get pumped towards the injection pumps, and the cleaner that isn't injected bypasses towards the fuel tank. After you let it sit overnight, you can prime it for a bit to flush the excess back towards the tank. Does that make sense? SeaFoam recommends adding some to the tank, running it, then pulling the filter, and filling the filter with SeaFoam. Process and video below;

Sea Foam Works | Sea Foam

Sea Foam is the leading fuel and oil additive manufacturer. Our products include Sea Foam Motor Treatment, as well as other additives and cleaners for critical engine areas.

seafoamworks.com

I tend to run SeaFoam at twice the recommended dosing afterwards for a few tanks in diesels that are having issues. I also always add Opti-lube Summer+ to my diesel fuel to boost the lubricity, as modern ULSD does not have the lubricity that older diesel did when these engines were designed. The Optilube Summer+ is so inexpensive per gallon of fuel, that I think it is cheap insurance for any of these older engines that were designed for a fuel with much higher lubricity.

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[Triple Jim]

After I let it cool off it was able to start again by itself no glow and no ether

These systems power the glow plugs during cranking, so you're pretty much always using them.

 

[GASCANS001]

These systems power the glow plugs during cranking, so you're pretty much always using them.

Two of my Glow plug connectors are melted off the glow plug

 

[Tinstar]

Seafoam is your friend.
If you think you've added too much, add some more.

I also run two-cycle oil in all my older diesels.
It's designed to be burned and keeps the internals happy.
Current diesel does not have the lubricity it used to.

 

[Ray70]

If you end up finding that you have 1 or more bad injectors I can rebuild and pop test them for you.
First get everything cleaned out as best you can, including the fuel pumps and screens.
Then fix the glow plug connectors and verify they are all working. ( hold switch for 30 seconds and the intake as well as the heads should be warm if you touch right at the glow plugs and intake heaters.
If you continue to have difficulty with cold starting, get it running and monitor the valve cover temp.
If the temp quickly rises such that it is too hot to comfortably touch within 3-4 minutes there is a good possibility that either your IP plunger guide has skipped *90 or you have an injector sticking open.
If you are low on power, can't reach rated output etc. then you could have an injector stuck closed.
Best way to identify a stuck closed injector is to loosen the injector lines 1 at a time and listen for a drop in RPM and an engine stumble.
If you loosen a line and hear no difference, that injector is most likely stuck closed or you have some other reason that cylinder isn't firing.

Be careful with starting fluids, as Jim mentioned your intake heaters also come on as soon as you crank the engine, so you can have a fire ( or worse ) in the intake if you spray fluid in there and then crank it over.