MEP-003a fuel issue

[MuddFlapp]

I recently acquired a MJQ-18 set, (2 MEP003s mounted on an M-103 Trailer). Both GenSets appear to be complete, have 4 and 6 hours on the meters. On inspection one set turns over easy with the crank bolt on the fan end, the other doesn't. The one that does not turn over I pulled the glow plugs and added a little marvel mystery oil to the cylinders and let it set while I try to get the other running. So here is what I have done on the free spinner:

1. Drained all fuel from tank (about 7 or 8 gallons of rusty, chuncky mess), removed and cleaned tank
2. Drained and cleaned fuel pumps and in pump filters (lots of rusty slimmy gunk)
3. Drained and cleaned strain and fuel filters (strainer and filter #1 had lots of nasty, filter #2 looked pretty clean)
4. Replaced fuel filters with Fram filters and gaskets.
5. Flushed out all fuel lines.
6. Drained oil, replaced oil filter with Fram filter and gasket. 6.5 quarts of fresh oil added.
7. Two brand new batteries installed.
8. New air filter installed.
9. Applied power to fuel pumps (Prime&Run)
10. Fixed all leaking diesel from gaskets and fittings.
11. Go good fuel return to tank.

So thinking all is well I hit the starter. Engine turns over as expected, faint puffs of white smoke from exhaust, oil pressure builds to 30 PSI or better, but no start.

Suspecting an fuel issue I loosen a fuel line and the injector pump and crank the engine. I get nothing. No stream, no leak, no mist, not even a drip.

I removed the deliver valve retainer and notice good amount of my clean diesel in the cap (I use Red Diesel). No junk or rust in the area, pull the deliver valve and it appears clean and intact. I leave the deliver valve cover loose and turn on fuel pumps (Prime&Run), good flow of my clean diesel from around deliver valve cover.

I have read that the tappets can get stuck when these Genset are idle for extended periods. Before I go beating on this thing with a hammer and brass punch, I would like confirmation from the group that I am barking up the right tree. Also in using the brass punch method, what do I remove beyond the delivery valve?

Thanks for listening,

Jeff

 

[gimpyrobb]

Did you heat with the glow plugs? You need to use them warm out or not. The puffs of smoke sound like diesel, did it smell like diesel?

 

[MuddFlapp]

Did you heat with the glow plugs? You need to use them warm out or not. The puffs of smoke sound like diesel, did it smell like diesel?

Yes, glow plugs heated for full 60 seconds, and verified that the top of the engine was very warm to touch.

 

[MuddFlapp]

UPDATE.
After lots of head scratching, forum searching, coffee and TM reading, I think I may have been barking up the wrong tree. I had incorrectly assumed all was good with the fuel cut off solenoid, because I can see it fully retract when I try to start the engine. I did not realize that the solenoid does not move the throttle linkage, but it ALLOWS the throttle linkage to move. Anyway, if I manually lift the solenoid, the linkage moved, but it extremely tight and sticky. I will now get this cleaned and lubed and try again.

Any input is greatly appreciated.

 

[jamawieb]

I recently acquired a MJQ-18 set, (2 MEP003s mounted on an M-103 Trailer). Both GenSets appear to be complete, have 4 and 6 hours on the meters. On inspection one set turns over easy with the crank bolt on the fan end, the other doesn't. The one that does not turn over I pulled the glow plugs and added a little marvel mystery oil to the cylinders and let it set while I try to get the other running. So here is what I have done on the free spinner:

1. Drained all fuel from tank (about 7 or 8 gallons of rusty, chuncky mess), removed and cleaned tank
2. Drained and cleaned fuel pumps and in pump filters (lots of rusty slimmy gunk)
3. Drained and cleaned strain and fuel filters (strainer and filter #1 had lots of nasty, filter #2 looked pretty clean)
4. Replaced fuel filters with Fram filters and gaskets.
5. Flushed out all fuel lines.
6. Drained oil, replaced oil filter with Fram filter and gasket. 6.5 quarts of fresh oil added.
7. Two brand new batteries installed.
8. New air filter installed.
9. Applied power to fuel pumps (Prime&Run)
10. Fixed all leaking diesel from gaskets and fittings.
11. Go good fuel return to tank.

So thinking all is well I hit the starter. Engine turns over as expected, faint puffs of white smoke from exhaust, oil pressure builds to 30 PSI or better, but no start.

Suspecting an fuel issue I loosen a fuel line and the injector pump and crank the engine. I get nothing. No stream, no leak, no mist, not even a drip.

I removed the deliver valve retainer and notice good amount of my clean diesel in the cap (I use Red Diesel). No junk or rust in the area, pull the deliver valve and it appears clean and intact. I leave the deliver valve cover loose and turn on fuel pumps (Prime&Run), good flow of my clean diesel from around deliver valve cover.

I have read that the tappets can get stuck when these Genset are idle for extended periods. Before I go beating on this thing with a hammer and brass punch, I would like confirmation from the group that I am barking up the right tree. Also in using the brass punch method, what do I remove beyond the delivery valve?

Thanks for listening,

Jeff

The plunger inside the pump is stuck. If you take the delivery valve holder off and remove the spring, with the assembly. You will see the plunger, rotate the motor over by hand and you should see the plunger moving in and out. If not, the plunger is stuck. Take a wood or brass dowel, put it in the pump to hit the plunger and break it loose. I usually spray cleaner inside as I hit the plunger to clean the junk out. The plunger and head have very close tolerances and the tiniest amount of residue will clog it. Hopefully you didn't break the plunger guide inside the pump. I would take the pump off and tear it apart before you do anything else. It's really simple, just use the TM.

 

[MuddFlapp]

you should see the plunger moving in and out.

Ok, here is a picture of the IP with the cap, delivery valve retainer and the delivery valve removed. My question is where or what plunger should I see moving?

 

[jamawieb]

Ok, here is a picture of the IP with the cap, delivery valve retainer and the delivery valve removed. My question is where or what plunger should I see moving?
View attachment 565422

Take some needle nose and take the assembly out. Its the thing with the hole in it. After you remove that, the head of the plunger is there. That is what you hit with the dowel.

 

[gimpyrobb]

I might have some of the drive washers if yours is broken.

 

[MuddFlapp]

I will look again when the sun comes back around. I did get the throttle linkage freed up, but still a no-go.

 

[MuddFlapp]

OK, I had a little time this afternoon to play genset mechanic. Attached are pics of the IP with the 5 piece I was able to remove. My question is, in the second picture, it this the plunger that I am looking for? I held a punch on it and rotated the engine with a ratchet and felt zero movement. is there a quick and easy way to ensure that the cam is turning with the crank? I would rather not start tearing everything apart and creating more headaches for myself.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup that looks like it!

 

[jamawieb]

OK, I had a little time this afternoon to play genset mechanic. Attached are pics of the IP with the 5 piece I was able to remove. My question is, in the second picture, it this the plunger that I am looking for? I held a punch on it and rotated the engine with a ratchet and felt zero movement. is there a quick and easy way to ensure that the cam is turning with the crank? I would rather not start tearing everything apart and creating more headaches for myself.

View attachment 565914View attachment 565915

In the second picture, that is the top of the plunger (it has the small hole in the center). Use your punch and lightly tap it with a hammer, then rotate the motor a little and tap it again. Keep doing this for a while, until it moves freely. The plunger has very close tolerances in the head and any residue from the old diesel will clog it. You have to get the bore of the head and plunger clean so it will perform correctly. I've had good luck with taking the fuel hose off that connects the injection pump to the final fuel canister. I take it off at the canister and pour lacquer thinner into the hose and rotate the motor over slowly so the lacquer thinner goes into the pump.

 

[MuddFlapp]

UPDATE:
I got the plunger moving. I am now putting a fresh charge on the batteries (because the heat index is 110+ and I need a break). This evening I will attempt to bleed the high pressure fuel lines and see if this thing has any life left. Also my delivery valve spacer appears to have denigrated, any luck finding a new one or a suitable sub?

 

[gimpyrobb]

That stupid little thing is like $40! Someone on here just made himself one, search threads in the "aux equip" forum, I'm sure you'll find it. It was a recent thread.

 

[jamawieb]

UPDATE:
I got the plunger moving. I am now putting a fresh charge on the batteries (because the heat index is 110+ and I need a break). This evening I will attempt to bleed the high pressure fuel lines and see if this thing has any life left. Also my delivery valve spacer appears to have denigrated, any luck finding a new one or a suitable sub?
View attachment 566032

Yeah, Ambac is the only place I have found. The last time I ordered one, it was $30. It's worth the money because it won't run exactly perfect without it.

 

[MuddFlapp]

UPDATE:
Well after charging the batteries, she rumbled to life. Started right up, blew a little black smoke, ran fine as long I a hold the start button. Panel gauges show nothing. Oil pressure 45-50 psi. I could not be happier. I am an electronics tech and can sort through the electrical side of the MEP. Just happy the mechanical end is not trashed. Thanks for the help, gentlemen.

 

[jamawieb]

UPDATE:
Well after charging the batteries, she rumbled to life. Started right up, blew a little black smoke, ran fine as long I a hold the start button. Panel gauges show nothing. Oil pressure 45-50 psi. I could not be happier. I am an electronics tech and can sort through the electrical side of the MEP. Just happy the mechanical end is not trashed. Thanks for the help, gentlemen.

More than likely the oil pressure switch is bad on the motor, that is the reason why it won't keep running after you let go of the start switch. You can jump the oil switch with a wire and it should stay running.
Then, if the gauges are not reading, more than likely its the ground on the control box, it's on the bottom and attaches to the frame.
I'm glad she came to life.

 

[donaldl]

Yeah, Ambac is the only place I have found. The last time I ordered one, it was $30. It's worth the money because it won't run exactly perfect without it.

Muddflapp;Glad you figured your fuel problem out.I am the guy Gimpyrobb referred to about making "homemade" spacers.My Two MEPS refused to run without those spacers.Can I assume from your last post that your engine runs without that spacer?

 

[Keith_J]

clean fuel is a must. clean and new fuel so change it every 6 months. it must be clear, otherwise this and worse happens. just finished my second drive key R&R on a 003A.

 

[MuddFlapp]

Muddflapp;Glad you figured your fuel problem out.I am the guy Gimpyrobb referred to about making "homemade" spacers.My Two MEPS refused to run without those spacers.Can I assume from your last post that your engine runs without that spacer?

I can tell you the engine starts and runs as is, I would not say that it runs good. Of course I have only run it for about 90 seconds, then work, school and life got in the way. I am in the process of building a 40x42 shop, and the MEPs will be the first thing in.