• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-003A Glow Plug

iam4thapack

Member
39
3
6
Location
Hickory, NC
I have recently taken delivery of an AB-1309/TRC tower trailer with (2) MEP-003a generators on same. One has in the 230 hour range and the other is up around 273 hours. The trailer was stored in a salt water environment on a barrier island here in NC. The salt water has caused severe corrosion on the generator housings and some of the external parts of the engine. I am going to need several parts to make these come back to life.

The most troubling is the glow plugs have simply rusted to the point that on some of them the plugs are almost flush with the head, while others are flush, and the worst are recessed into the heads a bit. I did not take my digital camera with me when I went up to look at the unit yesterday and I discovered this issue then. Has anyone else seen this type of problem? If so what was the solution to your problem? I am thinking that trying an easy out will be the first option. How deep do these go into the head?

I am trying to avoid pulling all of the cylinder heads as both generators have the problem on all 4 cylinders. Here is a cut and past of the other thread in reference to the trailer itself with some photos. I have also posted some photos below that show the generators only. I will try to get some closer photos of the glow plugs later this week as time permits. The trailer is not at my home yet and should be delivered here sometime later this week if the weather holds up. The wife has blessed the aquisition thus far and tearing up her yard with a dump truck pullling a 16,000 lb trailer isn't on my priority list right now!! :shock:

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/milita...43356-new-project-ab-1309-trc.html#post482943

Shane KI4M
 

Attachments

Nonotagain

New member
1,444
41
0
Location
Parkville, MD
The part of the glow plug that goes into the cylinder head is 1.5 inches long from the thread. The sealing surface is 3/4 below the threads.

Figure on soaking the glow plug area with PB Blaster or Kroil for a few days before attempting the removal.

The glow portion of the plug is a rod approximately 1 inch long and will fall into the cylinder if you drill it wrong.

Of other concern is that the sheet metal on the generator is is need of replacement. The "tins" can be somewhat difficult to find unless someone is parting out a unit. Also, there is a oil cooler under the front cover and the engine fan may be very rusted.
 

Speddmon

Blind squirrel rehabiltator
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,640
28
38
Location
Cambridge, Ohio
I would be very concerned about the sheetmetal, as the "tins" are an integral part of the cooling air flow on these sets. Also, if one of the glow plug rods drops into the cylinder, having to pull the head may be a problem as head gaskets might be as hard to come by as hen's teeth.

I wish you the best of luck on your project, but I'm also thankful it's not my project...:twisted: Those sets are in sad shape.
 

iam4thapack

Member
39
3
6
Location
Hickory, NC
I would be very concerned about the sheetmetal, as the "tins" are an integral part of the cooling air flow on these sets. Also, if one of the glow plug rods drops into the cylinder, having to pull the head may be a problem as head gaskets might be as hard to come by as hen's teeth.

I wish you the best of luck on your project, but I'm also thankful it's not my project...:twisted: Those sets are in sad shape.
I was rather shocked to see them in such sad shape. I could not resist the price on this unit. I would really like to have both of the gennys back up and operational in time. I need one now to provide the power to deploy the tower etc.

That being said I think that with some time and effort I may be able to recreate with some similarity the sheet metal. I have access to a sheet metal brake and have some friends who are very good fabricators with sheet metal. If push comes to shove I can have them recreate these pieces for me. If they do that I will pay the extra bucks and make sure they do no not rust. I am going to watch GL and see if any units come available in my area for a good price and I may bid on one of those. Everything on the trailer is in super condition except the generators. They seem to have taken the brunt of the salt water environment.

In reference to the head gaskets I figured they were close to if not unobtanium status. If it gets to that I will just hope for the best and if they do not separate try to put them back on using copper coat. Last resort is to part them out if it comes to that. I am sure that I can part 2 out and make enough money to purchase one good unit from GL or Delks or somewhere like that.

Shane
 

iam4thapack

Member
39
3
6
Location
Hickory, NC
Here are some pictures from my camera phone taken today. Now you all can see what I am up against. I have several different ideas that I will be trying on these. I am quite certain one will be sold for parts to help cover the cost of repair on the other unit. I will get a list together when I am done and put all the parts for sale on here.. I anticipate getting started on this soon. I am going to have to wait for some dry/clear/warm days..
 

Attachments

Scarecrow1

New member
1,355
1
0
Location
Florence , S.C.
Well you beat to the spare gen as a parts bin . Man those have been put through some hard times . I crindge at the idea of drilling them out but man there's not much left to bite on good luck . I was playing with the idea of trying to use a dremmel grinder to cut a slot in them and trying to back them outafter a good soaking of penatrating oil,,,,,,,,,,
 

iam4thapack

Member
39
3
6
Location
Hickory, NC
Well you beat to the spare gen as a parts bin . Man those have been put through some hard times . I crindge at the idea of drilling them out but man there's not much left to bite on good luck . I was playing with the idea of trying to use a dremmel grinder to cut a slot in them and trying to back them outafter a good soaking of penatrating oil,,,,,,,,,,
The bad part about it is one of the sets has 210 hours and the other I think has 273 hours. Just a salt water environment wreaking havoc on the metal..

I have also considered that idea and that is actually the method I am going to try first on the parts genny. I plan on taking a Dremel with a rotary cutting bit to put a small grove in the head of what is left. Soak it for days and days with penetrating oil and tap on it daily before application with a brass rod or similar. That way it will penetrate more. I have a small impact screwdriver set that I have used with much success on rotor screws on Honda/Acura cars in the past and I will use this to hopefully break these free. If I can get one running the other is parts. If neither can be salvaged I will part them both out and either buy new single phase AC motors or purchase a 3-1 phase converter box. For my application HP is not critical..

Shane KI4M
 

Carl_in_NH

Member
834
7
18
Location
Wilton NH
It's going to be tough to get those out without drilling. I can't imagine those coming out with just a slot cut in them.

People sometimes weld a nut onto a broken bolt and wrench them out that way; I've seen it done before - but never on anything that rusted. I suspect those are stuck but good.

I replaced two of these plugs on my 003A, and it's got very little rust in the head area. It took an hour to back out two of them, using a lot of PB Blaster and very small movements; loosen 5 degrees; tighten 5 degrees, then loosen 10 degrees. Carefully winding it out and back in to free it up enough to get it out without the chance of breaking.

Might just be better to pull the head off and have a look at doing the job properly.It would be good to get a look inside that engine, too; it may only show 200 hours on the clock, but with all that external salt water damage, the inside of the engine might be junk. Dive in and find out. If you want to take a peek inside the block without popping off a head, you can pull the IP and see the cam - might give you an idea of general condition inside.
 

iam4thapack

Member
39
3
6
Location
Hickory, NC
It's going to be tough to get those out without drilling. I can't imagine those coming out with just a slot cut in them.

People sometimes weld a nut onto a broken bolt and wrench them out that way; I've seen it done before - but never on anything that rusted. I suspect those are stuck but good.

I replaced two of these plugs on my 003A, and it's got very little rust in the head area. It took an hour to back out two of them, using a lot of PB Blaster and very small movements; loosen 5 degrees; tighten 5 degrees, then loosen 10 degrees. Carefully winding it out and back in to free it up enough to get it out without the chance of breaking.

Might just be better to pull the head off and have a look at doing the job properly.It would be good to get a look inside that engine, too; it may only show 200 hours on the clock, but with all that external salt water damage, the inside of the engine might be junk. Dive in and find out. If you want to take a peek inside the block without popping off a head, you can pull the IP and see the cam - might give you an idea of general condition inside.
Yep I thought about the inside looking junky too. At least 2 valves have to be open in these so I am sure those cylinder walls are rough. They probably need honed anyhow. Hey if they can't be saved I will convert the tower motors over to single phase 240V units, mount the tower on a concrete pad, and have me a nice 5,600 lb aluminum crank up here!

73
 

Carl_in_NH

Member
834
7
18
Location
Wilton NH
Could always sell me that tower - I'd give it a good home here at ~900 ASL :) It would be just the thing to get the weak signal VHF and above antennas up where I want them; right now, 50 MHz - 1296 MHz & 10 GHz is mounted on a 30 foot tower with a house bracket off the gable end. Our location up on a hill gives me a nice shot down the coast towards NYC and beyond - but a real tower would get me above the leaves in summer and reduce attenuation at the shorter wavelengths.

If you can't get those gensets going, there's plenty more of them out there on the market. I'd stick with the three phase, myself - but I've just grown used to it after picking up lots of older industrial machine tools over the years and they are all three phase powered.
 

NEIOWA

Well-known member
1,195
126
63
Location
NE IOWA
What is the NSN for the tower unit? Looking for mast setup for antenna for my FD. That could work for us.
 

iam4thapack

Member
39
3
6
Location
Hickory, NC
What is the NSN for the tower unit? Looking for mast setup for antenna for my FD. That could work for us.
I forgot to post you the information you requested. I am sorry. The NSN # is 5985-01-156-0572. I hope that helps.

I am still waiting to get it home from the local storage area. Lots of snow followed by several delays have kept me from getting it here.

I am still thinking of changing the cylinder heads on the MEP-003A generator set and hoping for the best. One for sure is going to be a parts unit I can already see. I have sourced some used heads for $ 65 each. Has anyone ever changed a head or heads on these sets before? I know that a head gasket will be the hard thing to come by. I will have to be careful and if they survive the removal be sure to copper coat them good before the reinstall..

Shane
 
Top