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MEP 003a would trip dc circuit breaker when attempting to start

Buckeye Mike

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I had a MEP003a that ran great. I started it one day and all was well. Shut it down and went to start it the next day....DC circuit breaker would trip when you would attempt to crank. Has anyone seen this and if so recall what the cause was?
 

dfullerpt

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I just picked up a unit and it's doing the same thing any thoughts. It pops as soon as the switch is turned from the off position.

Thanks
Dennis
 

doghead

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I had one do the same thing. I found the Master Control Switch was bad. It had a loose piece in it that was causing the issue. I bought a used takeout switch and replaced it.

Try opening your control panel and with the panel facing the ground, try operating your switch a few times, then try starting it. That is one of the things I did, when I diagnosed my issue.
 
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Speddmon

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The DC circuit breaker tripping out should be a relatively easy fix. If it were mine, I would start by pulling the fuse for the charging system and seeing if it still happens. That would eliminate a lot of stuff. Then, like DH mentioned, start looking for the obvious physical problems. And there is also the TM's which have a ton of good information in them about trouble shooting the systems. If ya'll need any help feel free to ask.
 

Speddmon

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I had a MEP003a that ran great. I started it one day and all was well. Shut it down and went to start it the next day....DC circuit breaker would trip when you would attempt to crank. Has anyone seen this and if so recall what the cause was?
I just picked up a unit and it's doing the same thing any thoughts. It pops as soon as the switch is turned from the off position.

Thanks
Dennis
I was just looking at the prints for the 003a, and I have a question for both of you. EXACTLY in what position of the switch does the breaker trip out? Depending on when the breaker trips, you can eliminate a whole lot of looking around. For example, if it trips out as soon as you go the the preheat position, then you should concentrate around the glow plugs and intake heaters. Also, look for spots in the wiring harness that are rubbed through and possibly grounded.
 

dfullerpt

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Had a chance here at work to check messages I can not thanks all of you enough for the help I am making a list of things to trace. Will check and advise again THANKS its appreciated
 

dfullerpt

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I might have isolated it will know more when I come back from store with a new battery for my Volt/Ohm meter. I think the starter solenoid may be shorted to ground as I have continuity between the small terminal which goes to ground and the one across which goes to the master switch and or 24V power. Anyone know of someone selling solenoids??????
 

Speddmon

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It may not be the solenoid. Check the wiring coming from the start relay as well, that could have rubbed through on the frame of the set somewhere and went to ground. My one set had a wire coming from the high temp shutdown switch going to ground when I picked it up from the lot.
 

dfullerpt

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Thanks to all we found it or should I say "Speddmon" found it a bad fuel pump Proves a machinist should not try electricity. As suggested we unplugged one of the main pumps and no more trips cycles thru each position and fired on what must be some thinner in the lines. Will be starting Friday once I put the filters in again Thanks to all.
 

doghead

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Thanks to all we found it or should I say "Speddmon" found it a bad fuel pump Proves a machinist should not try electricity. As suggested we unplugged one of the main pumps and no more trips cycles thru each position and fired on what must be some thinner in the lines. Will be starting Friday once I put the filters in again Thanks to all.

I would unbolt the capacitor from the gen set chassis and try that pump again and see if that resolves your shorting issue.

I have seen the capacitors on the fuel pump wire, go bad(dead short).If that is the problem, you can cut it out and simply splice the wire back together without it(you do not need it, it is for electrical noise suppression).
 

dfullerpt

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Will try that later this afternoon when I get home thanks,
If that is the case I will probably keep the new pump as a spare this thing when running is going up into the mountains 13 miles in on a dirt road and 1 hr from town.
 

dfullerpt

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Cut the capacitors out and soldered wire back together and everything OK. Ran unit for 5-10 minutes adjusted rpm to gain 60HZ was showing low voltage or no movement on meter even when moving the rheostat. Shut down the unit to get my meter out went to restart and Nothing.
Pumps are running the fuel solenoid is clicking only problem starter no crank. Took a starter switch and jumped starter it cranks I am thinking thru the TM its the starter lock out switch???
Anyone else ever have this happen. I wont give up these units are fantastic from what I see so far.
 

Speddmon

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Cut the capacitors out and soldered wire back together and everything OK. Ran unit for 5-10 minutes adjusted rpm to gain 60HZ was showing low voltage or no movement on meter even when moving the rheostat. Shut down the unit to get my meter out went to restart and Nothing.
Pumps are running the fuel solenoid is clicking only problem starter no crank. Took a starter switch and jumped starter it cranks I am thinking thru the TM its the starter lock out switch???
Anyone else ever have this happen. I wont give up these units are fantastic from what I see so far.

They are fantastic generators, so DON'T give up on it, we'll get you running yet!!!! I e-mailed you how to jump out the start lockout switch, try that and see what you get. After you get it running we'll work on the voltage problem.

Also, under NO circumstances, I mean absolutely NONE. DO NOT LET THE ENGINE IDLE!!!!!!!!!! start it and get it to 60 Hz right away and leave it alone. don't even touch it when you shut it down. That way when you start it up again it will go right to 60 Hz. If you allow the engine to idle, you'll end up frying your voltage regulator and or bridge board or both. These engines are designed to start and go right to speed, so you will not hurt it.
 

dfullerpt

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We jumped the Starter Lock Switch and the Engine runs,

Scared now because I had it idling while checking for leaks etc. I got it up to 60 Hz and checked voltage at meter but it showed 10-12 volts rheostat no effect.

I did check the main lugs turning the breaker on and had 115 volts at the lugs hopefully we did not fry something other than the Lock Switch
 

Speddmon

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Idling the engine didn't hurt the lockout switch. Idling the engine only affects the electronic voltage regulator and the bridge rectifier board.

I would check the voltage at the output lugs or the convenence receptacle and adjust the rheostat and see if that voltage goes up or down. If it does, then you either have a bad meter or a bad ct/cvt assembly.
 
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