MEP-004 Injector pump and no power to fuel pumps

[Anthill]

I just picked up a MEP-004 and it has several issues - probably many more that I haven't found yet. The first issue is no power to the fuel pumps - even with the start switch in on position and the battle override switch on still no power. I took a wire and ran it from the batteries to a spare fuel pump i have and got fuel to the injector pump, only to discover the injector pump is not working properly.
I was wondering if anyone could recommend someone that rebuilds these and around how much they charge for this.


I appreciate any help, thanks,

Ant

 

[glassk]

Generator Set Troubleshooting.
Refer to TM 5-6115-464-12 for troubleshooting procedures
applicable to the generator set


It tells you when to holler uncle ,.....

 

[storeman]

It might also help to indicate in your signature which (of the 57 states) Drexel Hill is located in, so someone might be able to give you a more localized response.
Jerry

 

[Anthill]

I didn't realize that it wasn't all there - fixed.

Thanks,

Ant

 

[Isaac-1]

Most diesel injection shops seem to charge between about $450-$600 +non standard wear parts to rebuild Stanadyne DB or DC series injection pumps these days, there are also mail order places that charge about $300 -$400. Of course local markets do vary.

Ike

 

[Suprman]

My mep006 you cannot use the battle switch override until it is running. Engaging the switch prior to starting prevents it from starting

 

[1800 Diesel]

..... I took a wire and ran it from the batteries to a spare fuel pump i have and got fuel to the injector pump, only to discover the injector pump is not working properly. ....Ant

Can you provide a few more details as to why the IP isn't working properly? Was the fuel flow rate good with no air? Did you verify that the fuel system was 100% bled? Did you check for return fuel? Did you crack lines at injectors & found no flow while cranking? Just trying to ascertain that you've done the basics before you spend a bunch of money.

Edit--WRT fuel pumps not running, I'm assuming you've checked the other basic things like DC fuse, TM check on BS switch & also on Start/Stop/Run Switch. Also do you get the fault indicator lights OK? Last question--do you have a known good or spare MEP-004A nearby? If so, swap out the wiring harness to the control cubicle with the one from the working unit. If you don't have a spare, remove this harness & check for corrosion on the amphenol/cannon pins/sleeves, use contact cleaner & re-connect harness. I had the opposite problem as yours (fuel pumps running all the time) & found a short somewhere on the wiring harness.

Looking through the TM you can locate the following components that may or may not be relevant to the fuel pump problem:

L1--Engine fuel solenoid
L2--Day Tank solenoid

K1--Stop/Run Relay
K8--Fuel Level Relay

FL1--Fuel level (float switch)
FL2--Fuel level (float switch)

CR6--Fuel pump diode

TM has testing info for these components.

Kevin

 

[PeterD]

My mep006 you cannot use the battle switch override until it is running. Engaging the switch prior to starting prevents it from starting

That's basically true, but at least with the 004 and 005 (and I suspect the 006) if you turn on battle switch, and the off-run-start switch to run, the fuel pumps will run as the battle switch bypasses the low oil pressure cutoff.

This is the accepted method to prime the fuel filters when doing a filter change, for example.

 

[glassk]

Can you provide a few more details as to why the IP isn't working properly? Was the fuel flow rate good with no air? Did you verify that the fuel system was 100% bled? Did you check for return fuel? Did you crack lines at injectors & found no flow while cranking? Just trying to ascertain that you've done the basics before you spend a bunch of money.

Edit--WRT fuel pumps not running, I'm assuming you've checked the other basic things like DC fuse, TM check on BS switch & also on Start/Stop/Run Switch. Also do you get the fault indicator lights OK? Last question--do you have a known good or spare MEP-004A nearby? If so, swap out the wiring harness to the control cubicle with the one from the working unit. If you don't have a spare, remove this harness & check for corrosion on the amphenol/cannon pins/sleeves, use contact cleaner & re-connect harness. I had the opposite problem as yours (fuel pumps running all the time) & found a short somewhere on the wiring harness.

Looking through the TM you can locate the following components that may or may not be relevant to the fuel pump problem:

L1--Engine fuel solenoid
L2--Day Tank solenoid

K1--Stop/Run Relay
K8--Fuel Level Relay

FL1--Fuel level (float switch)
FL2--Fuel level (float switch)

CR6--Fuel pump diode

TM has testing info for these components.

Kevin

Kevin, I e-mailed the 6115-624 battle damage manual to you , let me know if it made it, also table D-4 ist the common parts for 15Kw and above

 

[1800 Diesel]

Kevin, I e-mailed the 6115-624 battle damage manual to you , let me know if it made it, also table D-4 ist the common parts for 15Kw and above

File received in good order. Many thanks!

Hopefully it'll help me figure out some of the unsolved issues with 2 of the MEP4s I'm working. I'll definitely add that one to my short study list.

 

[m16ty]

Without looking at the TM, I think the 004 has a Roosa Master/Stanadyne IP. If it does a basic overhaul kit is about $25 and you can rebuild it yourself if you're mechanically inclined. No joke, if you can rebuild a carb you can rebuild one of these simple IPs. Give me the number off the IP and I can tell you more.

If it is in fact a Roosa Master/Stanadyne pump it's a good possibility your weight retainer has come apart (common problem on these IPs). Take the timing cover off and see if you have pieces of rubber in there. If your retainer has come apart there is a shade tree fix to at least hear it run but like I said, give me the numbers and we can go from there. A new updated weight retainer is around $50.

You probably should also replace the pilot bushing while you're in there for about another $20.

 

[Anthill]

I finally had a chance to work on this yesterday. I took off the injector line on #1 cyl and there was no fuel at all when I cranked it so I pulled off the timing cover and sure enough there was little pieces of rubber there. It must have been sitting for quite a while because the fuel that came out smelled nothing like diesel but just like turpentine.There is a sticker on the front that says load tested 09/09 and that was probably the last time it was run. I set the timing on it and took the injector pump out. I think I am going to send it out to get rebuilt, I don't want to break anything taking it apart and I found a place in Huntsville, AL that said if it doesn't need anything major he rebuilds them for $340.

I then moved onto the electrical side. After trying several things I checked the relay and I think it was stuck, because after tapping on it several times it activated. I had a spare relay so I though it in for good measure.

Now I all I can do is wait until the pump comes back. I appreciate everyone's help with this.


Thanks,

Ant

 

[M35A2-AZ]

I have a MEP-005a and when I got it the IP Pump was gummed up. I took it to a shop and they rebuilt the pump and the injectors
for $700, it was a lot but it run great now.
My gen had a Stanadyne pump on it.

 

[m16ty]

Yea your weight retainer has come apart. You can take the check valve off the return line (where it goes into the top of the pump) and it should run. What happens is the rubber pieces stop up that check valve and the IP won't pump fuel. I've seen people knock the ball out of the check valve and continue to run them for quite awhile. There is the possibility of a runaway if the retainer comes completely apart though.

$350 is a heck of a deal, it's all anybody should charge but most places get around $700 for a rebuild. Like I said, you can pretty much replace everything except the head and rotor for less than $100 in parts.

I've rebuilt many Roosa Master/Stanadyne pumps but only rebuild my own. I don't have a test stand and can't tell if the pump will have peak performance until run it on a engine. If you have one of the older pump manuals it gives the info on how to adjust the pump on the engine.

 

[bimota]

Can the Moderator post suppliers for the parts mentioned? We'll all need the parts one day and sourcing parts has proven time consuming in the past. Thanks!

 

[cherlymo]

Urgent, I am having a similar problem with a MEP004 A at a mission hospital in Africa

Greetings,

I am trying to help out a Mission Hospital here in Cameroon Africa with their MEP004A. It will just start and run for a few seconds and die like it runs out of fuel. I have bypassed the float tank and have the fuel lines run directly from the fuel pumps through the filters to the Injector pump. I have 24 volts to the injector pump and good fuel pressure to the injector pump. Since the float tank and the solenoid valve is bypassed I don't think my problem should be in the safety shutdown circuits. Can anybody help me with this problem. I am suspecting Injector pump problems but our resources as far as injector pump shops here are limited. If I can indeed determine the problem is injector pump then if needed I have someone traveling to the U.S. in a couple of weeks to Texas and Louisiana and maybe they could take it for a rebuild. Any help is appreciated. I have no experience with the Mep004a. We have 4 Mep002a.
thanks in advance,
Terry

 

[m16ty]

Greetings,

I am trying to help out a Mission Hospital here in Cameroon Africa with their MEP004A. It will just start and run for a few seconds and die like it runs out of fuel. I have bypassed the float tank and have the fuel lines run directly from the fuel pumps through the filters to the Injector pump. I have 24 volts to the injector pump and good fuel pressure to the injector pump. Since the float tank and the solenoid valve is bypassed I don't think my problem should be in the safety shutdown circuits. Can anybody help me with this problem. I am suspecting Injector pump problems but our resources as far as injector pump shops here are limited. If I can indeed determine the problem is injector pump then if needed I have someone traveling to the U.S. in a couple of weeks to Texas and Louisiana and maybe they could take it for a rebuild. Any help is appreciated. I have no experience with the Mep004a. We have 4 Mep002a.
thanks in advance,
Terry

It sounds like your weight retainer inside your IP has came apart. Read what I posted on posted above, pull the timing cover off (little plate on the side with two screws) and see if there are bits of rubber in there.

 

[cherlymo]

Thank you, M16TY. I am not on location now. I have forwarded this information and thread to my son who is near. Hopefully he will get a chance to check it and let us know what he finds in a day or two. Do you know any shops in Texas or Louisiana that rebuild these pumps for a reasonable price?
thanks,
Terry

 

[cherlymo]

My son removed the timing cover and found no rubber but instead a lot of rust. Removed the check ball but broke it when removing. Engine Starts and runs fine now. Is there any place to buy a new check valve?
thanks,
Terry

 

[m16ty]

You don't really need the check valve, it will run fine without it and is really not needed.

If there was rust (or any other stuff besides clean fuel) behind the timing cover, you need to be figuring on replacement or rebuild. These old IPs are pretty tough but rust in the system will eat up the close tolerances of the machined parts inside pretty quick.

If you rebuild it now you may get by with a good cleaning and seal kit. If you run it long with rust in there all you'll have left is a paperweight (it may already be too late to salvage the head and rotor).