KLChurch
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Fixed the wire and ready to start. J5 has continuity now.
Kris
Kris
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mep 004a no fault lights working plus more
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KLChurch
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Hip Hip Ho ray!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
The severed ground wire was one of the reasons it did not start.
I fired it off and she ran on her own.
Next is to address the lights bulbs per instructed.
Kris
The severed ground wire was one of the reasons it did not start.
I fired it off and she ran on her own.
Next is to address the lights bulbs per instructed.
Kris
KLChurch
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Changed the burned out bulbs to over speed and over travel.
KLChurch
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Run mode and in test. Gen not started
Kris
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Ran Gen for 30 mins.
Charger working
water temp working.
Hour meter working. 317 hours but it is a stewart warner gage. dont know if it was replaced.
Had leak at the IP and need new washer.
No oil leaks
No water leaks
160 degrees max water temp
45 psi oil pressure.
Kris
Charger working
water temp working.
Hour meter working. 317 hours but it is a stewart warner gage. dont know if it was replaced.
Had leak at the IP and need new washer.
No oil leaks
No water leaks
160 degrees max water temp
45 psi oil pressure.
Kris
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So i guess I maybe ready for some sort of load test or premature?
kris
kris
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Oh wow I'm a Colonel Now. This is great because I'm a Neophyte.
Kris
Kris
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Regardless of your rank, you've displayed tenacity in the trenches reviving a flat-lined MEP-004! Good job you're almost home.
I'm sure Guyfang will have some good recommendations on the next step(s) and how/when to load test the beast. In the meantime, what do you have to put a load on it? Something that has a variable resistive type kW 240 V load would be best. A garage heater, an old electric clothes dryer, cook top range, oven, water heater or whatever you have available that can be hooked up properly to the load terminals. Remember, the genset needs to be properly grounded with a driven ground rod when it is a self derived power station in the field (i.e. not hooked to house ground).
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Kris,
Great job finding that wire! That is one of the hardest faults to find. And from the look of it, yes a cut wire. Makes you want to break someone's fingers. Yeah, that's a stumper. What washers on the IP are you talking about? For the injector lines? If so, there is supposed to be two per injector line. They have ridges on one side of the washer. The ridges go against the injector line. Always replace them as a pair. If it was me, I would replace all the washers on all the lines. Then you know it's good for a while.
Now is is a good time to fix any little thing wrong you see. Get familiar with the gen set. Perhaps read the first few chapters of the -12 TM.
The engine temp I a little low. Should be about 180. The gage could be a tad out of wack, or the thermostat also.
Will continue, got to go do something.
Great job finding that wire! That is one of the hardest faults to find. And from the look of it, yes a cut wire. Makes you want to break someone's fingers. Yeah, that's a stumper. What washers on the IP are you talking about? For the injector lines? If so, there is supposed to be two per injector line. They have ridges on one side of the washer. The ridges go against the injector line. Always replace them as a pair. If it was me, I would replace all the washers on all the lines. Then you know it's good for a while.
Now is is a good time to fix any little thing wrong you see. Get familiar with the gen set. Perhaps read the first few chapters of the -12 TM.
The engine temp I a little low. Should be about 180. The gage could be a tad out of wack, or the thermostat also.
Will continue, got to go do something.
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Back reporting for duty SIR, Colonel SIR!!
OK.
Now when the gen set is cold, go around to the left side, and open the front door. In between the side of the gen set and the radiator, you SHOULD see a handle. When you push it down, it SHOULD spring right back up. The manual shutter control is what you have your hand on. Its supposed to work by itself. When you run the set, always close all doors. That way the gen set warms itself up right, and keeps itself cool enough. As the gen set reaches operation temp, (about 180) the loovers, (on the front of the set behind the grill) should open up. this way the set runs just right. Now these sets are kinda old. The loover control may not work right, or maybe adjusted wrong. There is also SUPPOSED to be a short rope with a hook on it to keep the loovers open, in case the control will not work right. That way you can continue to run, and not overheat the set. The loover control has bees wax in it to push a piston out, to open/close the control, regulating the engine temp. This is something you can check. Close it up, start it up, and read a book! Watch the loovers. Do they open up after a while?
Next, earlier you told us that you had no hertz and volts on the meters. I am assuming the gen set still is that way. You should not assume that in fact it has no volts. TEST. TEST. TEST. Because I am here to tell you, assuming will bite you in the patootie. So go to the left side of the set. Open the rear door. the CB2, (output contactor) is there in front of you. Remove the two covers from it. Start the set. Remember to hold S2 up a bit longer, 5-10 seconds. Set runs, and let it warm up a minuet or two. Close the S3, (AC out put switch) and see if the light comes on. If it doesn't, Flip up the S7, and when its light comes on, Try the S3 again. Light come on? If you still do not have Volts/Hertz on the meter, go back around to the CB2, and measure between the terminals. From one side to the other. AC volts. Do the front three terminals, then the rear three. Got voltage? If you do not have voltage front or rear, we can ASSUME that the main gen hasn't lit off, (been excited). No out put, so no load test. Yet.
NOW, what you should do is this. Start a new thread. Why, well, this one is 32 pages of ten posts each. LOOOOOOOOOONG thread. And the title of it deals with completely different things then we are going to get into. There might be someone out there who can help with this problem, and he wont jump in because your title is about other things. He simply wont look. When you start a new thread, title it MEP-004A, No out put. Write what your new problem is. I will copy this post and inset it, or you can. Then we can get the rodeo started!
Again, Kris. You hung tough! That's something someone else didn't do, and its why you got this set the way it is. Good job for an Old Fart!!
OK.
Now when the gen set is cold, go around to the left side, and open the front door. In between the side of the gen set and the radiator, you SHOULD see a handle. When you push it down, it SHOULD spring right back up. The manual shutter control is what you have your hand on. Its supposed to work by itself. When you run the set, always close all doors. That way the gen set warms itself up right, and keeps itself cool enough. As the gen set reaches operation temp, (about 180) the loovers, (on the front of the set behind the grill) should open up. this way the set runs just right. Now these sets are kinda old. The loover control may not work right, or maybe adjusted wrong. There is also SUPPOSED to be a short rope with a hook on it to keep the loovers open, in case the control will not work right. That way you can continue to run, and not overheat the set. The loover control has bees wax in it to push a piston out, to open/close the control, regulating the engine temp. This is something you can check. Close it up, start it up, and read a book! Watch the loovers. Do they open up after a while?
Next, earlier you told us that you had no hertz and volts on the meters. I am assuming the gen set still is that way. You should not assume that in fact it has no volts. TEST. TEST. TEST. Because I am here to tell you, assuming will bite you in the patootie. So go to the left side of the set. Open the rear door. the CB2, (output contactor) is there in front of you. Remove the two covers from it. Start the set. Remember to hold S2 up a bit longer, 5-10 seconds. Set runs, and let it warm up a minuet or two. Close the S3, (AC out put switch) and see if the light comes on. If it doesn't, Flip up the S7, and when its light comes on, Try the S3 again. Light come on? If you still do not have Volts/Hertz on the meter, go back around to the CB2, and measure between the terminals. From one side to the other. AC volts. Do the front three terminals, then the rear three. Got voltage? If you do not have voltage front or rear, we can ASSUME that the main gen hasn't lit off, (been excited). No out put, so no load test. Yet.
NOW, what you should do is this. Start a new thread. Why, well, this one is 32 pages of ten posts each. LOOOOOOOOOONG thread. And the title of it deals with completely different things then we are going to get into. There might be someone out there who can help with this problem, and he wont jump in because your title is about other things. He simply wont look. When you start a new thread, title it MEP-004A, No out put. Write what your new problem is. I will copy this post and inset it, or you can. Then we can get the rodeo started!
Again, Kris. You hung tough! That's something someone else didn't do, and its why you got this set the way it is. Good job for an Old Fart!!
KLChurch
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Ok,
Will create a new thread.
Just had a new problem. My water well went dry.
So got to find out why.
Thanks so much for the help so far.
Kris
Will create a new thread.
Just had a new problem. My water well went dry.
So got to find out why.
Thanks so much for the help so far.
Kris
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Take care of bizness partner! When you are ready, we can go farther. Hope the well problem isn't anything tough.
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And now to one last,(I hope) post to this thread.
The cut wire. Been thinking about this a bit. There could be several reasons for this. But must likely is, the MEL. Whats MEL. Going to set my instructors hat on here.
Maintenance Expenditure Limit. I think the MEL comes out every year. The MEL provides guidance to how much money you can spent on repairing something in the military. And actually, its a good system. Whenever something gets damaged, (not broken, there is a difference) in the army, The equipment gets inspected. If its determined that there is someone at fault, or neglect was involved there is an investigation. The price of every part needed to bring the equipment back to an operational condition, AND the man hours needed to do that, is calculated. If the price exceeds the allowable limit listed in the MEL, the gear goes to the Can Point, (cannibalization Point) DRMO or scrap yard. Guilty party's are punished.
If equipment breaks, and the maintenance facility determines, (same criteria as above) that the repair cost exceeds the MEL, the gear goes to a Can Point, DRMO or scrap yard.
If the gear is getting older, (and the MEL has age limits) the limit of money allotted for repair, goes down. Why fix something that is old and about at its end of service anyway? And here we are at the place I think is the reason that wire was cut. When equipment is at the end of its life cycle, or is being replaced with something newer, the MEL goes waaaaaaaaaay down, and the lowest level is 0.0%. No money is to be spent on repair of said equipment. When its unserviceable, and can not be repaired without putting new parts on it, its off to the Can Point, DRMO or the scrap yard.
Now every unit is on a schedule for issue of new equipment. When your number comes up, they take all the old gear away, and issue you the new gear. If your number has not come up yet, and you need to get rid of something, you get something out of war stockage. 99.99% of the time the same thing you are trying to get rid of. But when your unit is supposed to get a new issue, and the list is long, an unscrupulousness person can get all his equipment condemned and advance, (sometimes) on the list. So, cut a wire in the harness, hide it with a few cable ties and when no one can find the problem fast, you get something new.
Why did I take the time to write this boring monologue? Because in the next few years, you are going to see more and more of this thing in the MEP-8XX generator world. There are fewer, or even NO repair parts, in the system. So why sit on gear that one can not repair without cannibalization? Its easy to get rid of gear with the snip of the cutters.
The cut wire. Been thinking about this a bit. There could be several reasons for this. But must likely is, the MEL. Whats MEL. Going to set my instructors hat on here.
Maintenance Expenditure Limit. I think the MEL comes out every year. The MEL provides guidance to how much money you can spent on repairing something in the military. And actually, its a good system. Whenever something gets damaged, (not broken, there is a difference) in the army, The equipment gets inspected. If its determined that there is someone at fault, or neglect was involved there is an investigation. The price of every part needed to bring the equipment back to an operational condition, AND the man hours needed to do that, is calculated. If the price exceeds the allowable limit listed in the MEL, the gear goes to the Can Point, (cannibalization Point) DRMO or scrap yard. Guilty party's are punished.
If equipment breaks, and the maintenance facility determines, (same criteria as above) that the repair cost exceeds the MEL, the gear goes to a Can Point, DRMO or scrap yard.
If the gear is getting older, (and the MEL has age limits) the limit of money allotted for repair, goes down. Why fix something that is old and about at its end of service anyway? And here we are at the place I think is the reason that wire was cut. When equipment is at the end of its life cycle, or is being replaced with something newer, the MEL goes waaaaaaaaaay down, and the lowest level is 0.0%. No money is to be spent on repair of said equipment. When its unserviceable, and can not be repaired without putting new parts on it, its off to the Can Point, DRMO or the scrap yard.
Now every unit is on a schedule for issue of new equipment. When your number comes up, they take all the old gear away, and issue you the new gear. If your number has not come up yet, and you need to get rid of something, you get something out of war stockage. 99.99% of the time the same thing you are trying to get rid of. But when your unit is supposed to get a new issue, and the list is long, an unscrupulousness person can get all his equipment condemned and advance, (sometimes) on the list. So, cut a wire in the harness, hide it with a few cable ties and when no one can find the problem fast, you get something new.
Why did I take the time to write this boring monologue? Because in the next few years, you are going to see more and more of this thing in the MEP-8XX generator world. There are fewer, or even NO repair parts, in the system. So why sit on gear that one can not repair without cannibalization? Its easy to get rid of gear with the snip of the cutters.
KLChurch
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So just to ask one more question.
Do you think the Stewart warner hour gage is original?
Kris
Do you think the Stewart warner hour gage is original?
Kris
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Tier I reset requirements (TB 11-6115-741-24) include......
7.7.4 Replace hour meter on generator sets that have a new or remanufactured engine installed. Generator sets that
retain their original engine shall retain their original hour meter.
That said, it's pretty easy to change out an hour meter. Some sets come with decent paperwork: both of mine did not. My 803, fresh out of Letterkenney, had a nice rebuild sheet.....for a different generator.
7.7.4 Replace hour meter on generator sets that have a new or remanufactured engine installed. Generator sets that
retain their original engine shall retain their original hour meter.
That said, it's pretty easy to change out an hour meter. Some sets come with decent paperwork: both of mine did not. My 803, fresh out of Letterkenney, had a nice rebuild sheet.....for a different generator.
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I would think so. There are about 1 million part numbers for that meter.
KLChurch
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I just mentioned it because all the other gages are a different brand.
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I've got a Datcon on my 803 and a Hobbs on my 802.