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MEP-004a or 005a voltage regulator

J

jamawieb

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Ripley/TN
Jimmie, If you go to amazon or e bay and put in "advr054 regulator" then it will bring up the voltage regulator you need. That little regulator replaces the entire big box that houses the original VR. You will have 2 or 3 wires for the sensing (depending on single phase or 3phase that you are using). These 2-3 wires can be hooked to the right side of the contractor so they can sense the voltage. doesnt matter which wires are hooked to what terminal on the contactor. Then you will have 2 wires going to F1 and F2, F1 and F2 are on the terminal board (little 2 wire hookup terminal board) F1 is F+ on the VR and F2 is F- on the VR, these do have a specific hookup. The terminal board sits to the left (toward the gauges) of the original big box. The original plug for the big box is actually hooked to the terminal board. After you get the ADVR054, read the directions because your going to have dipswitches that need to be changed for different operations. Come back and ask questions if you get stuck.
 
Jimmie Morgan

Jimmie Morgan

Member
62
12
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Location
Goodman, Missouri USA
jamawieb said:
Jimmie, If you go to amazon or e bay and put in "advr054 regulator" then it will bring up the voltage regulator you need. That little regulator replaces the entire big box that houses the original VR. You will have 2 or 3 wires for the sensing (depending on single phase or 3phase that you are using). These 2-3 wires can be hooked to the right side of the contractor so they can sense the voltage. doesnt matter which wires are hooked to what terminal on the contactor. Then you will have 2 wires going to F1 and F2, F1 and F2 are on the terminal board (little 2 wire hookup terminal board) F1 is F+ on the VR and F2 is F- on the VR, these do have a specific hookup. The terminal board sits to the left (toward the gauges) of the original big box. The original plug for the big box is actually hooked to the terminal board. After you get the ADVR054, read the directions because your going to have dipswitches that need to be changed for different operations. Come back and ask questions if you get stuck.
Click to expand...
Thanks I have it Narrowed down to a couple of places Some of them are out of stock. I have another guy that is helping me also !!! There may be hope I can get this OLD Generator on line.
 
Jimmie Morgan

Jimmie Morgan

Member
62
12
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Location
Goodman, Missouri USA
peapvp said:
we have rebuilt several of these A11 and ship them back fully tested per TM

because of the amount of corrosion within the A11, your overhaul would be extensive.
Click to expand...
After I cleaned out all the MudDobbers Nests & dead bugs it did not look that bad. No burnt wires or chewed up stuff.
 

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Guyfang

Guyfang

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Cross posting. Thats where you have two different threads at the same time, and you discuss the same problem in both threads. People go crazy trying to help you, because they have to find two different threads to understand what you need help with, what you have done, and what you are going to do.

No I don't know that what it cost to compleatly fix and test a A11, (3,000 dollars?) but the cost of an after market VR is a few hundred bucks. There are any number of folks here who stand ready to help walk you through the operation. And a new head, will not fix anything on your set. Its not the head. Its the VR. If you spend 3K on a head, install it, and brother, if you think putting in an after market VR is complicated, look up how to replace the head, then I will buy a after market VR, and a round trip ticket from Germany and install it for you. Because that would be cheaper then a new head you dont need.
 
Jimmie Morgan

Jimmie Morgan

Member
62
12
8
Location
Goodman, Missouri USA
Guyfang said:
Cross posting. Thats where you have two different threads at the same time, and you discuss the same problem in both threads. People go crazy trying to help you, because they have to find two different threads to understand what you need help with, what you have done, and what you are going to do.

No I don't know that what it cost to compleatly fix and test a A11, (3,000 dollars?) but the cost of an after market VR is a few hundred bucks. There are any number of folks here who stand ready to help walk you through the operation. And a new head, will not fix anything on your set. Its not the head. Its the VR. If you spend 3K on a head, install it, and brother, if you think putting in an after market VR is complicated, look up how to replace the head, then I will buy a after market VR, and a round trip ticket from Germany and install it for you. Because that would be cheaper then a new head you dont need.
Click to expand...
According to some of the people on here. Installing a Aftermarket is not a PLUG & PLAY . I talked to the guy in Kansas that is on here & he said it would not work right . Needs Resistors & other things. Just throwing that out there .
 
Scoobyshep

Scoobyshep

Well-known member
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Location
Florida
Jimmie Morgan said:
According to some of the people on here. Installing a Aftermarket is not a PLUG & PLAY . I talked to the guy in Kansas that is on here & he said it would not work right . Needs Resistors & other things. Just throwing that out there .
Click to expand...
2 wires for Volt sensing. 2 for field. Then there needs to be something to inject power to the field to start the head. That's where a resistor comes in. It sounds intimidating but it's quite easy.

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
 
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