MEP-004A parts, and problems

[Enginerd]

PeterD,

One weird thing I saw yesterday after I cleaned the IP inlet screen and want to get your opinion on. I removed the fuel line and let the fuel flow into a clean empty gas can. It drained the day tank in just a minute or two and the fuel was nice and clear. Pulled the screen which did have stuff on it and cleaned it with carb cleaner until the cleaner flowed clear. Put the filter back in but left the hose in the gas can. Started the electric pumps and let the day tank fill. Waited to watch fluid flow from hose. It did but not at the same rate as when I first undid the line. I figured it was from some air in the fuel filter. Reconnected the line, let the pumps run again, and then undid the hose. It flowed more like originally.

Does that sound right to you?

I have a copy of the TM you posted about on another thread that gives a breakdown and exploded view of the IP and how to repair it. Thanks for the info on that. I plan on getting at least the seal kit for the pump so I can tear into it and clean it and see if my problem lies within.

Again, thanks so much.

 

[jbk]

mine behaved just like yours run a few seconds and lose rpm. it was the little glass ball check in the brass at the top sol. cover. just remove it your gen. will run fine without it.

 

[Enginerd]

ITS ALIVE!!!! Yes!! PeterD, jdk, and everyone else thank you so much. It turned out the be that check valve AGAIN!! I cleaned it like you said PeterD 3 times and I guess there was enough stuff in the lines that it just kept plugging up. So I drilled out the ball, reassembled it, and it fired up and runs great.

I have to check the other forums now because I do have another problem though. While I hold the start switch up, I get voltage and frequency. The minute I let it go, it drops to nothing so somewhere I have a problem in the wiring. If you know the correct thread, please let me know and I will read through the old posts and see what I can find.

Again thank you all for your help so far!!!

 

[PeterD]

Is the voltage and frequency close to correct when the start switch is put into the start position?

 

[Enginerd]

It was but I have already found the problem. I opened up the voltage regulator to see if there was anything obvious. the first think I saw was that the unit had been removed at some point because only 3 of the 6 bolts holding it on were reinstalled. There was also a cotter pin laying in the bottom and I noticed a few of the connections on the internal transformer had been re-soldered. Then I noticed that the plug, I think its called an elephants foot or something, that is internal and ties onto the board that is on the engine end didn't look like it was tight. So I tightened it. It was on with only one thread. After I tightened it I fired it up and guess what? Voltage and frequency came right up to where they should be. 60.2 hz and 120 volts. put the trouble light into the plug and it burned bright. Problem solved.

I love things that are easy to fix. Again, thank you for all your help. Your persistence telling me to recheck the check valve was the key. Drilling it out solved the problem for good.

Again, thanks.

 

[PeterD]

Awesome!

 

[epitts]

Could the MEP-004A be used to run your home?

 

[Enginerd]

It is somewhat over-sized to run my home in reality unless I add some load to it. I didn't realize that when I got it or I probably would have bit on a 10kW instead. I will probably still do that but yes, it will do my home and probably another.

I am going to do the single phase mod that is talked about in depth by sewerzuk in a number of his threads except that I have looked at it and if I add in the right switches, I can toggle it between 120/208 3 phase and 120/240 single phase. You would have to shut it down when you do the change but it would not be that hard. The wiring to do it is not hard but I need the correct size switches to handle the loads so they do not burn out.

 

[jamawieb]

Great, I'm glad you figured out the problem. I would check all your electrical connections because I had a few that were almost off too.

 

[Enginerd]

Did that first day but the one that was lose was internal to the VR/Exciter box. Looks as if they had redone the box because of a problem and just did not tighten it. they are all tight now. I learn quick on those things.

 

[bullwhacker]

Hello,
I have issues with the MEP 004a I bought.
No crank and no panel lights, no fault lights on indicator panel when test switch is used..
Check DC breaker and has 24v before and after it; pulled it and it cut the 24v and pushed it in and 24v back.
S/R/S switch has 24v to it.
Thing is I activate the BS switch and no pumps run, etc.
I switch on panel light switch amp meter pegs all the way to the left; no panel lights.
Push panel test buttons, amp gauge pegs all the way to the left.
S/R/S activate it and again amp gauge pegs all the way to the left.
DC breaker doesn't trip while doing this.
Also doesn't crank and has 24v at solenoid.
Fuses are good.
I've heard of a reset button? Where is it?
Appears starter is screwed; big ziiitt from battery terminal when I did the short test to crank it; didn't try that again.
Solenoid now does go click and did a direct via battery cable to positive n starter nothing.
I also found signs of GI JOE banging the heck out of the solenoid.
Clearly I need a starter and solenoid any ideas about where to get parts from anyone here?
I am looking for a shop repair manual and looking for any "main" 24v wire that powers the panel and hope to test that.
I appreciate help.
Thanks.

 

[LDMILL]

For the manuals just do a google search and they should be available for download.

If you got an arc from the battery terminal I am guessing it was not very tight. I would clean all battery terminals
and make sure they are tight. A loose terminal on a 24 volt system will quickly burn a battery terminal off.

You can take your starter to your local starter alternator rebuild shop for repair.
I believe there is a reset underneath the alarm lights on the panel.

I cannot help with the wiring but download the manuals and the wiring diagrams are included.

Good luck,
Larry

 

[bullwhacker]

You are referring to the DC breaker which I mentioned is working fine in my post. From reading I think there is a reset switch some where else that I am missing.

For the manuals just do a google search and they should be available for download.

If you got an arc from the battery terminal I am guessing it was not very tight. I would clean all battery terminals
and make sure they are tight. A loose terminal on a 24 volt system will quickly burn a battery terminal off.

You can take your starter to your local starter alternator rebuild shop for repair.
I believe there is a reset underneath the alarm lights on the panel.

I cannot help with the wiring but download the manuals and the wiring diagrams are included.

Good luck,
Larry

 

[Guyfang]

This works better when you cal the various parts by their name. Start switch is S-1. Battle short switch is S-7 and so on. If you need manuals, and they are not in the manuals section of SS, PM me and I will send them to you.

The reset switch under the fault indicator is just for the fault indicator. The set runs just fine without it. Are you sure the panel lights are good? Turn on the S-4, (panel lights) switch. Then check at the DS-1, DS-2 and DS-3 light sockets, if voltage is present. If the amp meter goes to the left, that shows a discharge. That means maybe a short. Have you opened up the special relay box? This sound like maybe the K-3 crank relay is shorted, or maybe someone removed it? But in anycase, you need to find out why all your voltage is going away.

 

[bullwhacker]

WWWEEELLLL Excuse MMMEEEE..........
I use terminology I saw from other users posting.
I do not need a know it all posting in condensation tone..
I asked for help and provided information which you either did not see in your post given you mentioned the very things I had already done.
So far no one has even answered my question(s) or provided constructive help..
As for your statement checking DS 1-3 I have already done that given my question as to no panel lights; not fault lights - implied have good bulbs and asked is there a "main" wire to power the panel?
Amp meter has 24v and disconnected and jumped leads temp in case it was bad; nothing; reconnected it.
K3 relay is the least of my problems until I find out why panel is dead except the amp meter I mentioned.
EVERY control as mention throws the amp meter all the way to the left and nothing runs; again DC breaker works fine and doesn't trip when what I have mentioned happens.
The last generator I dealt with the DC breaker when tripped cut power to the panel and IS NOT JUST FOR THE FAULT PANEL, that is what the fuse is for..
NONE of that has been answered.
Appears I am getting allot better responses on smokestack and more helpful people as well..

This works better when you cal the various parts by their name. Start switch is S-1. Battle short switch is S-7 and so on. If you need manuals, and they are not in the manuals section of SS, PM me and I will send them to you.

The reset switch under the fault indicator is just for the fault indicator. The set runs just fine without it. Are you sure the panel lights are good? Turn on the S-4, (panel lights) switch. Then check at the DS-1, DS-2 and DS-3 light sockets, if voltage is present. If the amp meter goes to the left, that shows a discharge. That means maybe a short. Have you opened up the special relay box? This sound like maybe the K-3 crank relay is shorted, or maybe someone removed it? But in anycase, you need to find out why all your voltage is going away.

 

[Guyfang]

I apologize. I have no idea how much you know about the gen sets. And it is easier when you use the right name. Please keep in mind that some people try and adjust the hertz on the 004A, using the rheostat. But I will say sorry.

While working on something else, it did occur to me that I have seen a problem like this before. It was the cannon plugs on the special relay box. Because the pins on the large canon plug were pushed back, the contacts were just enough to pass voltage, but not amperage. So the amp meter shows a discharge, and nothing happens.

The only reset switch I know of is on the over speed switch. I do not think this will be of much help. If the lights and everything else worked, and the starter not, then I would say insert a jumper between pins A & B on the overspeed switch canon plug. But in this case, you need to see why you are losing volts/amps when ever you turn something on. Dont assume the starter is bad until its tested. Have you checked all the canon plugs on the Special Relay box, and opened it up to see if pins are pushed back in the largest canon plug?

 

[Guyfang]

All the TM are now uploaded in the SS technical manual section under "All the TH's you need to work on the MEP-005A".