MEP 016d fuel delivery issue

[Seth_O]

My trusty MEP 016-d quit on me during a power outage this evening.

Upon examination I found that the belly tank was full, but the small tank on top was empty, so it wasn't transferring fuel.

I read several threads saying the rectifier on the fuel pump is known to go bad and can be safely removed. I have not been able to find any threads about how to remove it.

I have 4 wires on mine: a wire from the fuel float, a ground, and 2 green with white stripe wires. How should I be connecting the 3 wires if I remove the rectifier?

Can anyone point me to the TM for testing the fuel system on the 16d? All I could find was the manual for the conversion.

 

[Scoobyshep]

If memory serves, its not as much being used as a rectifier, but more as a set of blocking diodes. Youd really need to look over the wiring diagram to see what to cross

Sent from my SM-G973U using Tapatalk

 

[Guyfang]

Show me a picture of your gen set. I will give you what TM's I have. There should be posted in the TM section, TM's for your set. The "D" model is a bastardization. It aint fish, it aint fowl. There is very little Tech info on anything other then the AC portion. There should be a circuit breaker before the electric fuel pump. Disconnect the electric fuel pump cable. Go straight from there to 24 VDC. Will the pump rum? If yes, then find the circuit breaker. If no, you may need a new pump. If the pump will not work when jumped, then cut off the RFI and try hooking it up again to 24 VDC. If the RFI is bad, the pump will not run.

 

[Seth_O]

Tks guyfang, I'll snap some pics this evening when I get home.

Should the float be passing continuity when low on fuel? Wondering if that's an easy way to test the float for function.

 

[Seth_O]

Show me a picture of your gen set. I will give you what TM's I have. There should be posted in the TM section, TM's for your set. The "D" model is a bastardization. It aint fish, it aint fowl. There is very little Tech info on anything other then the AC portion. There should be a circuit breaker before the electric fuel pump. Disconnect the electric fuel pump cable. Go straight from there to 24 VDC. Will the pump rum? If yes, then find the circuit breaker. If no, you may need a new pump. If the pump will not work when jumped, then cut off the RFI and try hooking it up again to 24 VDC. If the RFI is bad, the pump will not run.

 

[Seth_O]

I had 5mins this evening and was able to verify continuity across the float switch while the tank was empty. I assume this means the float switch is good.

Tomorrow I am hoping to finalize the gennie install, the interlock kit arrived today. And I'll also try and rig up a couple of batteries to give me 24v to test the pump. Fingers crossed.

 

[Guyfang]

Can you push up the float? If so, then it should be open when its full, cutting off the pump.

 

[strycnine]

Every time this has happened to me the transfer pump was gummed up.

It happens to both of mine if I let them sit along time without running them.

 

[Seth_O]

I rigged up 24v this evening and applied it directly to the pump.

The pump kicked on and made noise, but didnt actually move any fuel (and didn't sound very healthy. Not sure if that's normal though as you cant hear it with the gennie running.)

I removed it and opened it up as far as I thought I could. I didnt see any issues with it internally.

 

[Seth_O]

Open to feedback on next steps?

 

[strycnine]

Can you push in lightly on the white part in center of pump?

My pumps don't look like that. Mine has a twist off cap on the bottoms. I THINK that visible part mat be a check valve? Maybe it's stuck? Just spit balling here.

 

[Seth_O]

Can you push in lightly on the white part in center of pump?

My pumps don't look like that. Mine has a twist off cap on the bottoms. I THINK that visible part mat be a check valve? Maybe it's stuck? Just spit balling here.

Yep, the white ball moved freely. I'm guessing the pump motor itself is out based on the noise it makes. I dont believe the top end is serviceable as its sealed up.

I guess I'll order a new pump. I'm just going to get an inexpensive low volume 24v pump.

 

[strycnine]

Could it be sucking air from the hose or fittings?

 

[Guyfang]

OK, here is the deal, as far as I can see/guess. First off, that was not the pump that was supposed to be on the set. It works, its compatible to other pumps that are the flow through type, when in series. But its not the original pump. And yes, when it goes bad, it tends to make strange noises.

On any other gen set, you would hate to see this thing. Why? Cause when you ordered the normal fuel pump, (for instance 2910-01-095-7595) and got this one in, the plumbing between the two fuel pumps, would no longer fit. For you set, with just one pump, its good. This pump was originally meant for tracked vehicles. But its characteristics are the same as the original pump. 24 volts DC, same GPM range, pass through capability's and the mounting holes were the same. So for the supply system, its all the same!

Facet Electric Fruel Pumps, sells several pumps that fit your bill.

 

[Seth_O]

I bench tested the pump and it worked great. Hooked it back up to the gennie and no love.

So I bypassed the tank selector valve and hooked the pump directly to the belly tank and it filled the day tank without issues.

After that I pulled the selector valve off and found it completely plugged with rust and gunk.

I cleaned everything up and went to reinstall and the ruddy selector valve nipple broke. Sigh.

Regardless though, feeling pretty good that this will resolve my problem, and glad I dont have to replace the pump!

Huge props and thanks to @strycnine for his help, and pointing me towards a replacement selector valve online. Its ordered and on its way.

 

[strycnine]

Im

I bench tested the pump and it worked great. Hooked it back up to the gennie and no love.

So I bypassed the tank selector valve and hooked the pump directly to the belly tank and it filled the day tank without issues.

After that I pulled the selector valve off and found it completely plugged with rust and gunk.

I cleaned everything up and went to reinstall and the ruddy selector valve nipple broke. Sigh.

Regardless though, feeling pretty good that this will resolve my problem, and glad I dont have to replace the pump!

Huge props and thanks to @strycnine for his help, and pointing me towards a replacement selector valve online. Its ordered and on its way.

I'm glad it's looking like a simple fix.

 

[Seth_O]

I have not been able to find an NSN for the "fuel strainer" on my gennie. I have searched all the 016 TM's I could find, and some 021 TM's.

It's a clear glass bowl connected directly to the 3-way valve. It has a screen on it, but mine did not have a paper filter inside.

Anyone have any idea where I can find that info? Mine is looking worse-for-the-wear and if I could replace it with new or NOS I would like to.

The assembly this guy attaches to:

 

[Guyfang]

There is no paper filter for that type of "fuel filter". Its more or less a water separator, that allows you to view the fuel clarity. Back in the day, ALL gen sets below 15 KW had this type of "Filter". We hated them. What we mostly did, when the tiny screen in the top of the head got funky, we ordered a fuel strainer for a 2.5 ton truck, and cut out the screen material. Then when we needed some screen, just pulled it out of the tool box, and cut a piece out. If it were my set, I would convert it to a real filter/water separator.