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MEP-1040 Oil filter help and initial comparisions.

mciikurzroot

Active member
Supporting Vendor
153
231
43
Location
wimberley texas
A friend has loaned me his new 2016 build date MEP-1040 10kw set, it came totally drained, and missing oil and fuel filters, The "Wizzard" or Yoda .. Guy Fang, got me on the right fuel filter and I'm using an oil filter from i think my 802/3 stash .. I can see it is a shorter body or canister length, but till i get to a NAPPA or hopefully some member here see's my plea and can cite me some commercial Wix or common filter, i need to get this solved asap. Because ? at this early testing and review juncture, the set is running 'hot' .. This afternoon in a short test period up to 197 degrees water temp the THERMOSTAT had not opened, best i can tell from early reading the -24 manual 200-209 or so is the typical t'stat opening temp. But i stopped short on going higher because in my experience the actual oil filter I'm using felt unusually hot,. And the -24 does make mention hot oil conditions can cause or contribute to high water temp. While i am seeing good oil PSI as i have said i know the canister is shorter that what is depicted in the various pictures, so until i get what i think is a real oil filter, I'm leaving open the possibility hot oil is contributing to my high water temp.
As the -24 mentions I'm not sure i don't have all the air bled out of the water system so this adds another variable into the mix of high water temp warning on my control screen. I have the NSN for the oil filter, but my parts houses don't seem to be able to cross reference this number into something commercial on the shelf.

Initial testing and operating including load-banking, the 1040, little doubt its a trick set, Cummins did a nice design and layout, but as a just straight up if i had to choose, between an 803 or a 1040.. I'll take the 803 series, based on ease or accessibility of the interior parts and layout, much more space and accessibility with the 803 ..The 80X is near full analog design and technology and easy to troubleshoot and economical to support as well parts are pretty easy to source or commercial fit and form interchange.. For the foreseeable future MEP-1040 parts will be very difficult to source from my initial review, everything is much like our modern vehicles and is an electronic block or modual, and few of us here have access to the Federal parts stock inventory for replacement parts. But those issues aside, no escaping the color control panel is trick ass and has just about every programming feature we can ever want. Cummins has taken full advantage of all the market place and quality vendors can offer as well good engineering history. It's also to remember this engine is a 3 cyl Yanmar with a Turbo and electronic Governor, but i don't see or feel your backing up using Yanmar anything, Yanmar is proven, pretty easily sourced and from my experiences, reasonably priced and readily available. Block loading and unloading this electronic gov, my guess did as best it can when you factor it is a 3 cyl and turbo charged engine, that is a tuff set of conditions to keep a steady state and recovery minimized during block loading/unloading conditions.. Cummins moved away from the near iconic cloth and clear plastic covered silver plated Mil Spec wire as well the typical numbering scheme we know, That was likely not an easy change for the MEP office to accept, my guess is Cummins drew a hard line and won. IMO at this point the wiring diagrams are difficult to follow, the actual wiring used is a mix of Teflon and MTW type wiring, I'm mixed on this.

A feature i do like is TRC [technology research corp] in Clearwater Florida is totally looped out as a vendor of anything, my swipe at TRC , TRC is not easy or friendly to deal with for after market single users as most of us represent, as well, typically very high cost, course the flip of this, is its all now Cummins sole source , but this will be seen as time wears on how it effect us as individual users, TRC had a long long 30 year plus run, we tried to replace them as much as we could in the 80x B series it was difficult. I also find it odd or confusing why Cummins went or continued to use the QUAD field winding on the actual Generator head. They had a choice, the Gen head is not sourced, it is all inhouse Cummins design and produced.
I will close this for today, seek a proper oil filter and work to resolve the high water temp and report more very soon by Sunday evening at latest. Thanx for the read and ur time. mac/mc
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,521
740
113
Location
Va
Howdy,
MEP-1040
Oil Filter
NAPA 1344
Air Filter
NAPA 9168
Fuel Filter
Racor R15S, NAPA 3433

Follow the procedures for filling coolant, and opening the top air valve to clear air in the upper hose section.

The temperature is good. They like to operate around that temp for full fuel burn, and limit wet stacking issues. The electric fan will do whatever it needs to do to keep it there.

You should post in the generator forum
 

mciikurzroot

Active member
Supporting Vendor
153
231
43
Location
wimberley texas
A friend has loaned me his new 2016 build date MEP-1040 10kw set, it came totally drained, and missing oil and fuel filters, The "Wizzard" or Yoda .. Guy Fang, got me on the right fuel filter and I'm using an oil filter from i think my 802/3 stash .. I can see it is a shorter body or canister length, but till i get to a NAPPA or hopefully some member here see's my plea and can cite me some commercial Wix or common filter, i need to get this solved asap. Because ? at this early testing and review juncture, the set is running 'hot' .. This afternoon in a short test period up to 197 degrees water temp the THERMOSTAT had not opened, best i can tell from early reading the -24 manual 200-209 or so is the typical t'stat opening temp. But i stopped short on going higher because in my experience the actual oil filter I'm using felt unusually hot,. And the -24 does make mention hot oil conditions can cause or contribute to high water temp. While i am seeing good oil PSI as i have said i know the canister is shorter that what is depicted in the various pictures, so until i get what i think is a real oil filter, I'm leaving open the possibility hot oil is contributing to my high water temp.
As the -24 mentions I'm not sure i don't have all the air bled out of the water system so this adds another variable into the mix of high water temp warning on my control screen. I have the NSN for the oil filter, but my parts houses don't seem to be able to cross reference this number into something commercial on the shelf.

Initial testing and operating including load-banking, the 1040, little doubt its a trick set, Cummins did a nice design and layout, but as a just straight up if i had to choose, between an 803 or a 1040.. I'll take the 803 series, based on ease or accessibility of the interior parts and layout, much more space and accessibility with the 803 ..The 80X is near full analog design and technology and easy to troubleshoot and economical to support as well parts are pretty easy to source or commercial fit and form interchange.. For the foreseeable future MEP-1040 parts will be very difficult to source from my initial review, everything is much like our modern vehicles and is an electronic block or modual, and few of us here have access to the Federal parts stock inventory for replacement parts. But those issues aside, no escaping the color control panel is trick ass and has just about every programming feature we can ever want. Cummins has taken full advantage of all the market place and quality vendors can offer as well good engineering history. It's also to remember this engine is a 3 cyl Yanmar with a Turbo and electronic Governor, but i don't see or feel your backing up using Yanmar anything, Yanmar is proven, pretty easily sourced and from my experiences, reasonably priced and readily available. Block loading and unloading this electronic gov, my guess did as best it can when you factor it is a 3 cyl and turbo charged engine, that is a tuff set of conditions to keep a steady state and recovery minimized during block loading/unloading conditions.. Cummins moved away from the near iconic cloth and clear plastic covered silver plated Mil Spec wire as well the typical numbering scheme we know, That was likely not an easy change for the MEP office to accept, my guess is Cummins drew a hard line and won. IMO at this point the wiring diagrams are difficult to follow, the actual wiring used is a mix of Teflon and MTW type wiring, I'm mixed on this.

A feature i do like is TRC [technology research corp] in Clearwater Florida is totally looped out as a vendor of anything, my swipe at TRC , TRC is not easy or friendly to deal with for after market single users as most of us represent, as well, typically very high cost, course the flip of this, is its all now Cummins sole source , but this will be seen as time wears on how it effect us as individual users, TRC had a long long 30 year plus run, we tried to replace them as much as we could in the 80x B series it was difficult. I also find it odd or confusing why Cummins went or continued to use the QUAD field winding on the actual Generator head. They had a choice, the Gen head is not sourced, it is all inhouse Cummins design and produced.
I will close this for today, seek a proper oil filter and work to resolve the high water temp and report more very soon by Sunday evening at latest. Thanx for the read and ur time. mac/mc
Yoda [Guy Fang} and today Daybreak called the OIL FILTER Nappa 1344 is correct all Daybreaks info is solid and correct. So the oil situation is settled.. Correct oil filter did nothing for the water temp running hot. It was a slim hope that it would but we needed the correct filter anyhow, so no effort was wasted..
 

mciikurzroot

Active member
Supporting Vendor
153
231
43
Location
wimberley texas
This is the MEP-1040 I received a few days ago from a friend to review and test. All the correct filter are in place now and working well. We are making good power and load banking well. But ? not all is well, as the run duration is going on the coolant TEMP is climbing, the indicating or alarm system is working well and you can watch it on the control screen. This set has the radiator remoted away from the actual engine 2.5-3' is a fair guess and is using an electric DC variable speed fan deriving the desired speed from water temp sending units to draw air inside and blow across the radiator, fan speed is related to water temp, Cummins used a combination of actual pipes and formed rubber elbows to make the piping complete from the engine inlet/outlet ports and radiator inlet/return ports. As the engine starts and heats up I am expecting the T'stat to begin to open near 190 and be completely open at 200 . And i might be using the wrong target temps here, but the theory/sequence is correct. But I'm not seeing any flow or i think T'stat operation at all. my pipes both supply and return are cool to the touch, as well the actual radiator, all the while engine water temp is steadily climbing, I'm just having a hard time accepting the new or near new engine has a faulty or bad T'stat. Looking at the engine no wrench marks or evidence can be seen where this piping or T'stat has ever required servicing ..
So unless some member has suggestion, i think my goal tomorrow is drain the coolant check the pipes for obstructions and then remove the engine t'stat and set up a test scheme and see what gives.
More as it is discovered. mac/mc
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,521
740
113
Location
Va
Yoda [Guy Fang} and today Daybreak called the OIL FILTER Nappa 1344 is correct all Daybreaks info is solid and correct. So the oil situation is settled.. Correct oil filter did nothing for the water temp running hot. It was a slim hope that it would but we needed the correct filter anyhow, so no effort was wasted..
Howdy,
More information is needed here.
The MEP-1040 operates between 200-204 degrees. What temp are you seeing then?
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,521
740
113
Location
Va
Howdy,

Standard operating temp is 200-204 degrees.

This is designed this way.
 

mciikurzroot

Active member
Supporting Vendor
153
231
43
Location
wimberley texas
Howdy,

Standard operating temp is 200-204 degrees.

This is designed this way.
well you're correct, and i was working with that knowledge base, but was also seeing 233 or temps in that range as well initial WARNING and soon followed the FAILURE announcement and soon shut down.. As i made mention the actual piping is very access-able and i was sure and had confirmed i was having real cooling issues.
I had stated in yesterdays posting i was going to remove the t'stat today and confirm its operation..
Honestly and i had expressed reservations on the t'stat being the actual culprit, but today i just couldn't bring myself to put wrench marks on this set, and finally just doing what Yoda near insist on to what Yoda Fang is always telling us "read the book" DA
There I discovered a bleed valve for AIR pockets, it makes good sense, this piping is near a foot above the engine discharge point/location.
Well long story short, bleeding the air out has solved the issue, yes as the TEMP reaches 199-200 degrees the radiator cooling fan comes on, same time displayed temp is in the 203-204 but as expected with the fan running very soon the displayed temp falls back into the 185-190 and then cycles back into the 200 range and bam on comes the fan and the cycle repeats its self, so while i had removed my load bank pig tail, im feeling pretty sure the set will support full operation, but i will confirm that tomorrow, but again im not expecting any issues.
Thanx for the input and support. very much.. mac/mc
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,521
740
113
Location
Va
well you're correct, and i was working with that knowledge base, but was also seeing 233 or temps in that range as well initial WARNING and soon followed the FAILURE announcement and soon shut down.. As i made mention the actual piping is very access-able and i was sure and had confirmed i was having real cooling issues.
I had stated in yesterdays posting i was going to remove the t'stat today and confirm its operation..
Honestly and i had expressed reservations on the t'stat being the actual culprit, but today i just couldn't bring myself to put wrench marks on this set, and finally just doing what Yoda near insist on to what Yoda Fang is always telling us "read the book" DA
There I discovered a bleed valve for AIR pockets, it makes good sense, this piping is near a foot above the engine discharge point/location.
Well long story short, bleeding the air out has solved the issue, yes as the TEMP reaches 199-200 degrees the radiator cooling fan comes on, same time displayed temp is in the 203-204 but as expected with the fan running very soon the displayed temp falls back into the 185-190 and then cycles back into the 200 range and bam on comes the fan and the cycle repeats its self, so while i had removed my load bank pig tail, im feeling pretty sure the set will support full operation, but i will confirm that tomorrow, but again im not expecting any issues.
Thanx for the input and support. very much.. mac/mc
Howdy,
Told you about the valve, here on post #3
 
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