MEP-1040 runs but no output

[2Pbfeet]

THANKS - this is what I plan to chase tomorrow. I pressed the RESET and TEST buttons on GFI and the small white circuit breaker reset button above the receptacle - there was no 'resistance to touch' or sound with CONTACTOR CLOSED as I've noticed when pressing such buttons on other such devices.
Interesting frm manual:
MEP 1040 [50/60Hz] contains a GFCI receptacle as the convenience receptacle. MEP 1041 [400 Hz] contains a duplex receptacle as the convenience receptacle and a Ground Fault Interrupter (GFI) located inside the rear access door.
This is a 1040, but has a duplex receptacle and separate GFI (as Guyfang shows), but it's marked 50/60 Hz. There is wear around the RESET button like it's been pressed a lot.

Long experience has taught me to watch the path often taken...

Normally, I would think that button should be pressed infrequently at best. (Like never) Mainly, my suspicions would be up that whatever is wrong is something that kept getting overlooked, like an intermittently bad outlet, or connection, or crimp, or a cold solder joint in the GFCI.

I would follow @Guyfang's advice to test it out of the machine, and then decide what the best path is. I would also keep my eyes peeled for rubbed insulation, or loose or dirty connections. Test things, wiggle, and keep watching. I have seen more than a few connectors that looked good, tested good, and then in the machine vibrated open and closed, and when I cut them open, the wire wasn't actually making contact with the connector.

Good luck!

All the best,

2Pbfeet

 

[pontiacgearhead]

Got it fixed. Started taking it apart and saw a connector hanging loose.. didn't know if I did this, or if related to the problem.
A connector was unplugged from circuit breaker (photo 1).
Ohmed out the loose wire and (as expected) it went to L1.
Problem is wire's too short when routed along top of circuit board (photo 2). Someone removed the Convenience Outlet assy and the wire pulled off.
I rerouted the wire (photo 3 and 4), and now can pull off the C.O. assy with ~2.5" service length (photo 5).

Fired it up, attached wood splitter and it worked. Was cool to see current draw numbers change on the Screen (5.6 amp draw with splitter running, 7.2 a w/hydraulic engaged, but didn't try to split wood.. now curious if it'd pull over 15a and throw the breaker).
I tested the GFI (TEST and RESET switches) and it worked.

THANKS to ALL for the help.
Will ask about a "misaligned fluid line connector" (not leaking) in new thread.