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MEP-16D and panel back-feed, how to wire including 240v for well pump?

445gsdss

Member
29
0
6
Location
Winchester, VA
I have a MEP-16D which I currently have still setup for my old home (rental) - to provide only 120v on a whip I put together. We would use this power during winter emergencies to run space heaters, some lights, and charge phones for periods of time from 4 to 72 hours.

Our *new* house (we just purchased and moved into) had a pre-existing, professionally installed back-feed to the main panel. There is a weather proof 30amp L14-30 on the house exterior and a lock-out kit for the main power (utility) breaker that requires it to be turned off prior to flipping on on the 30amp generator input breaker on the panel. (see picks below)

I realize I'm not going to run my whole house off of 3kW. For emergencies however, I only need to run my central (propane) heat blower, the well pump (240 volt, don't know draw), and a couple of 60 watt lights. In a real pinch, the heat blower and well pump breakers do not even need to be energized at the same time. Again, these would be cold weather emergencies, for duration of 4-8 to 72 hours max. Main priority is heat.


I'm hoping for advice on how to wire/configure a hook-up cable for the MEP16D genset to backfeed the panel via the 30amp breaker hookup. (assuming this is possible) Since one of the optional requirements is to power my well pump, which is 240 - I'm wondering how I should account for this in the setup of the cable. Again, not sure if this is possible, but would really like to run well pump.

If for some reason the well pump can't be run due to the 240 requirement, would I still be able to backfeed the panel with 120 - assuming the following workflow/hookup procedure:

- ALL breakers are first turned off at panel
- Lock out kit adjusted to turn off utility power and energize the 30amp input feed breaker
- only the required 120 breakers for the heat and the required light receptacles are then turned back on

Thanks!



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Last edited:

445gsdss

Member
29
0
6
Location
Winchester, VA
So, I have read the manual. Further, I am comfortable with basic household wiring tasks, to include the current setup of my 016D - which I wired up for the power whip. The issue is that this is an order of magnitude higher, maybe not much, but enough where I figured I should ask versus going at it allow with only the manual for help - especially since (in my opinion) the manual doesn't really directly address household wiring issues at all. HOWEVER, before posting here, I tried another avenue - and spoke with several of local, licensed electricians - who are more than happy to validate EVERYTHING excluding the genset hookup - which they won't touch with a 10 foot pole. Something about non-UL rated, vintage, military equipment and liability.


So, I'm guessing this is relatively easy thing to cable up - I'm just hoping for some help.


Thanks
 

Chainbreaker

Well-known member
1,802
2,009
113
Location
Oregon
In order to familiarize yourself with connecting your generator to house you should read the MEP-003 connection sticky.

Its for the MEP-002/-003 but the basic wiring, grounding, bonding unbonding of neutral should also apply to your MEP-016d.

Note: Post # 20 in the sticky is in error, the poster later corrected it in post #25.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
Moderator
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113
Location
Burgkunstadt, Germany
So, I have read the manual. Further, I am comfortable with basic household wiring tasks, to include the current setup of my 016D - which I wired up for the power whip. The issue is that this is an order of magnitude higher, maybe not much, but enough where I figured I should ask versus going at it allow with only the manual for help - especially since (in my opinion) the manual doesn't really directly address household wiring issues at all. HOWEVER, before posting here, I tried another avenue - and spoke with several of local, licensed electricians - who are more than happy to validate EVERYTHING excluding the genset hookup - which they won't touch with a 10 foot pole. Something about non-UL rated, vintage, military equipment and liability.

So, I'm guessing this is relatively easy thing to cable up - I'm just hoping for some help.


Thanks
This is exactly why I asked the question about the manual. Folks need to know how much you know about the set. And if you are comfortable with the basic hook up and household installations. Your answer was exactly what it should be. Every once in awhile someone who has no knowledge whatsoever, asks the same question as you. Then it gets difficult.

There are several members who are very knowable in this area. Chainbreaker among them. There are several threads with lots of good info, and the one referenced by Chainbreaker is VERY informative. The hook up is not hard. Its staying safe and legal that's difficult.
 

dependable

Well-known member
1,720
188
63
Location
Tisbury, Massachusetts
I have a 701, or 16B, I believe the hook up is the same as yours, if so;

Put voltage selection switch behind control panel in the 240V 1 Phase position. Your hot legs on this set for that setting should be L-1 & L-2. You need to confirm with a load drawing volt meter such as an electrician's solenoid voltage tester(or add a small load such as light bulb and use multimeter) that you have around 120V from each of the hot legs to L-0, which is your neutral.

A digital multi meter without a load may read a "surface charge" or whatever it is called, that does not represent what is actually going on.

Don't forget to ground properly for your house set up. As mentioned above, there are several good threads about this on this forum.

If you get 120V to LO from each of the hot legs, you should be good to go. If not, and you only get 240V between l-1 & l-2, but not 120 each to L-0, then read below.


On some sets the neutral was not set up for the 120/240, just 240, and a jump wire needed to be added to run in split phase household current (120/240). I do not remember how to do this off the top of my head, but there were a couple of good threads on this forum about this back when a lot of the sets were being sold at auction, probably around 2009 or 10. Also be aware there are some errors in the TMs for these units.
 
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