Mep 3 starting procedure

[Diamondjim11]

Hey Guys,
I just got my MEP 3 and I was trying to get it started. It will turn over, the fuel pumps run but I can't get it tio start. The lines were unhooked when I got it and the tank was a 1/4 full. Any suggestions on what to try/look for? Thanks
Jim

 

[AceHigh]

Are you getting fuel at the injectors? As in loosen one line and see what happens when you crank.

 

[DieselBob]

First you need to download these from the Resources section.

TM 5-6115-585-34
TM 5-6115-585-24
TM 5-6115-585-34

You can check and see if your pump is at least move diesel by turning the switch to "Prime/Run" and listen to the fuel tank. You should here the unused fuel returning to the tank. Also you may need to use the "preheat" for 60 seconds before starting. Also you need to be sure you have very good batteries. My set won't start if the voltage is under 20 volts. Turns over fine but not enough voltage to pull the fuel solenoid plunger.

 

[Speddmon]

There are several things you'll need to look for if it just plain won't start.

Glow plugs, and intake heater working?
Fuel pump screens plugged?
Fuel pumps actually pumping?
Fuel to the injectors and hopefully not a stuck IP plunger? Are you getting any white smoke or nothing at all?
Fuel shut-off solenoid pulling in when you are trying to start it?
Fuel shut-off rod stuck and/or gummed up?
Is the fuel in the tank any good? Drain it and flush the tank and refill with good diesel.
Fuel filters/strainer plugged? Any water in the canisters?

All of these things are easy to check yourself and some of them may require some assistance from the TM and/or the fellas on the forum (IE...advise). But to get more precise responses, you need to check some of the stuff out and report back on what you did, what you're seeing when you try to start it and what you don't know how to check so we can point you in the right direction.

 

[Diamondjim11]

Thanks, I will start with fuel. I know the pumps are working, (at least somewhat) because I get fuel from the first filter. It has a bad gasket and leaks around the base.No white smoke from the exhaust.I did not get fuel from the second filter or the screen when I opened the drain. Do I need to crack a line at the IP to bleed air if it is dry? I found no water when I drained 1/2 gal from the tank. I don't know about the fuel shut off solenoid. I downloaded the 2 manuals I found in the tech section and I am going through them.What position should the throttle be in when starting? In or part way out or open. I don't see that mentioned. Thanks again guys
Jim

 

[Isaac-1]

Diesels are simple, at least in concept you give them fuel, air (which should free flow on non turbocharged engines) and compression and they run, they may run poorly, but they at least try to run. Personally I tend to check the return line first and work my way back from there by group, 90 degree fittings are particularly prone to clogging.

1, check the return fuel line wherever it is easiest to get to after the injectors (a clogged return line closer to the tank will usually cause poor running due to back pressure)

2 check the see if your getting fuel to the injector /bleed the injector make sure to wrap a rag around the fitting and remember if everything is working right this fuel will be at very high pressures (high enough to inject it through your skin and cause you to have a real bad day)

3 Check the inlet side of the injector pump, this should have low pressure fuel from your lift pump

If still nothing work your way back through the filters, pump, pick up. etc.


Sometimes it is necessary to start diesels engines that have sat up for a long time on gasoline fumes, this can be done by soaking a shop rag/paper towel in gasoline and holding it near the air intake. This is dangerous, if you do it make sure the grid heaters and the glow plugs do not get turned on. When I have been forced to do this I like to wash my hands good first to make sure nothing flamable is on them, and hold the gasoline soaked rag with a long pair of pliers (note it only takes a little gasoline, maybe a tablespoon full, and it evaporates very fast so you have to hurry)

Ike

p.s. don't let the rag get sucked down the intake when the engine roars to life (vise grips might be good here)

 

[doghead]

Throttle needs to be midway out, to start.

 

[Diamondjim11]

You Guys are great! , I checked the fuel filters and got fuel trough them( although I will need to get gaskets(probably filters as well) Cracked the fitting at the inlet side of the IP and got fuel. Tightened a couple of fittings where they were leaking, let the pump run and tried to start it. After a little white puffs it did indeed roar to life. Now to check out the rest, I noticed it ran with approx 50lbs oil pressure and the battery charge gauge did not move from the bottom.I did not let it run too long because I had fuel running from the second filter. I need to know how to remove it to check/ change it and gasket I also did not check any AC output. Figured that was good for today. Thanks again

 

[AceHigh]

Good start! Remove the filter can with a rachet socket on the bolt on the top of the filter. If you look on top of the filter you will see a notch cutout for the rachet to go down into.

When reinstalling, make sure you hold the filter can firm so it won't let the rubber squeeze out from the lip.

 

[AceHigh]

I forgot to mention, did you check the fuel and oil filter cans to see if there are filters inside? Mine came with all the filters removed, except air.

 

[Diamondjim11]

I lloked inside the first lone, it appears tp have a aluminum stacked filter, the second I could not get off. The nut turns but the stud is turning with it. It looks like it has like the top of the bolt is machined on two sides to put a wrench on but I was not sure. Is that correct? Also why is it different from the front filter?

 

[AceHigh]

The front one is a water seperator. They all should come off the same, just like the first one.

 

[Diamondjim11]

WEll the front(closest to the control panel) has the drain on the side of the bottom at a 45 degree angle. There is a nut that holds the filter on to a stud at the bottom. The secons filter has the petcock drain exactly on the bottom( no nut) and is shaped just like the first. It has the notch cut in the top of the frame to get to the bolt. The last one ( closest to the IP)is shaped differently and has a petcock drain on the bottom also but no nut on the bottom.

 

[AceHigh]

Hope I am not confusing you, you are right. Take the last two off by loosening the bolt at the top. I can get some pics tomorrow if it will help.

Best of luck!

 

[Speddmon]

Jim,

Congrats on getting her running. Always keep this in mind though, DO NOT let the generator idle. You should have the throttle control know out about 3/4 of an inch for proper running at 60 Hz. Once you get it started, get it set on 60 Hz and let it warm up for about 10 minutes. After the warm-up re-set the throttle to 60 Hz and then don't ever touch the throttle again, unless you need to make minor adjustments. Shut it down and start it up with the throttle set at the running position.

 

[Diamondjim11]

I will double check once I get the "leaks" fixed, but I don't recall the Hz thing doing anything. Is something wrong? The Ac breaker was open, and nothing was plugged in or hooked up.

 

[doghead]

You set the engine speed, with the hand throttle(fine adjustment), by reading the Frequency meter. You set it to run at 60Hz.

If you were running the engine too slow, the meter will be "pegged" to the left.

This should all be outlined in the TMs and on the instructions on the unit.

 

[DieselBob]

I don't recall the Hz thing doing anything. Is something wrong? The Ac breaker was open, and nothing was plugged in or hooked up.

Most likely either the gauge or the transducer is bad. Both the voltage and frequency gauge will work with the main breaker open. Be sure to check the connections on the transducer and the gauge. With the age of these sets and the conditions they were in corrosion is always possibility.

 

[Diamondjim11]

Ok leak is fixed,I ran the unit 10 min ago, pulled throttle out 3/4 inch started up and I checked the Hz nothing, I checked the other gauges as well. They don't move.I ran the engine up and everything(gauges) stayed the same....all to the left sitting on the pegs. But on the bright side the engine sounds good. I sure hope this thing will make power though.I am trying to wade through the TM's but gen sets are not my strong suit. So what next?

 

[Carl_in_NH]

Continue reading the TMs. It's not some folks idea of fun - but all the information is in there.

It's not generating power - that's why you get no reading on any of the meters. You might need to do a manual 'field flash' to get it to start generating AC - that information is also in the TM. It involves turning the control switch to the 'start' position while the genset is running. Once the generator is up to speed, there's an electrical lock-out that keeps the starter from crashing the flywheel gear - but they re-use, in effect, the 'start' position of the switch to flash the field. See if that wakes it up.