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MEP-531a LOP cable

A

aaclevy

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Nashville NC
got my MEP531a and there is only a frayed disconnected end on the run switch, seller said it was intact before shipping.

Unit runs as long as i forcefully hold the throttle open. Otherwise the run switch switches off after a few seconds of running. Even with the stop switch tied to run position.

Anybody got the P/N or NSN for the throttle cable on the front of the3 unit? Also a diagram so i can see if anything else got missing... It looks like a bicycle cable with a sheath then inner cable.
 
Last edited:
Guyfang

Guyfang

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What we need to do is get you TM smart. Below is the basic info for the cable that you need.

FIG. 1 GENERATOR SET
ASSEMBLY, 2 KW
(MEP-531A/501A)

SMR Code: AOFFF
CAGCE Code: 30554
Part Number: 95-8082 .
Nomenclature: CABLE ASSEMBLY, ENG.
Special NOTE: BREAKDOWN,
SEE FIGURE 34

What is important here is:
1. SMR code. Its listed in the front of the parts manual. You can find it and read up about SMR codes. In a nut shell, it tells you, that you can not order this cable.

2. CAGCE code: That tells you who supplied it to the gov. But 30554 is CECOM. No help to you. CECOM is Communication & Electronic Command.

3. Part number: No use to you, as was made up by CECOM.

4. Nomenclature: Name of item.

5. SPECIAL NOTE: Breakdown, see Figure 34
This is your first warning bell. So go to figure #34 and...............

FIG. 34 LOP ENGINE SHUTDOWN
CABLE ASSEMBLY
(MEP-531A/501A)

NSN: 6620-01-467-7571
CAGCE Code: 0AK42
Part #: 114970-66400
Nomenclature: CONTROL ASSEMBLY

NSN: 5975-01-467-6588
CAGCE Code: 30554
Part Number: 95-8081
Nomenclature: TUBE, CABLE OFFSET

Now you have the breakdown of the cable and tube. What part do you need? One or the other? Or both? For the control assy, the CAGCE is: 0AK42 (Yanmar Diesel Engine Co Ltd)

You might check with them for the assy.

The tube, you might be able to make

Required Description

A4 OFFSET
0.375 INCHES NOMINAL
0.065 INCHES NOMINAL
0.187 INCHES NOMINAL
1.0
Click to expand...
And I would ask Yanmar about that part too.
 
A

aaclevy

New member
13
14
3
Location
Nashville NC
Guyfang said:
What we need to do is get you TM smart. Below is the basic info for the cable that you need.

FIG. 1 GENERATOR SET
ASSEMBLY, 2 KW
(MEP-531A/501A)

SMR Code: AOFFF
CAGCE Code: 30554
Part Number: 95-8082 .
Nomenclature: CABLE ASSEMBLY, ENG.
Special NOTE: BREAKDOWN,
SEE FIGURE 34

What is important here is:
1. SMR code. Its listed in the front of the parts manual. You can find it and read up about SMR codes. In a nut shell, it tells you, that you can not order this cable.

2. CAGCE code: That tells you who supplied it to the gov. But 30554 is CECOM. No help to you. CECOM is Communication & Electronic Command.

3. Part number: No use to you, as was made up by CECOM.

4. Nomenclature: Name of item.

5. SPECIAL NOTE: Breakdown, see Figure 34
This is your first warning bell. So go to figure #34 and...............

FIG. 34 LOP ENGINE SHUTDOWN
CABLE ASSEMBLY
(MEP-531A/501A)

NSN: 6620-01-467-7571
CAGCE Code: 0AK42
Part #: 114970-66400
Nomenclature: CONTROL ASSEMBLY

NSN: 5975-01-467-6588
CAGCE Code: 30554
Part Number: 95-8081
Nomenclature: TUBE, CABLE OFFSET

Now you have the breakdown of the cable and tube. What part do you need? One or the other? Or both? For the control assy, the CAGCE is: 0AK42 (Yanmar Diesel Engine Co Ltd)

You might check with them for the assy.

The tube, you might be able to make

Required Description


And I would ask Yanmar about that part too.
Click to expand...
Aye there’s a specification for the cable length the tube is in good shape so I can make the cable from a bicycle brake line. That would allow me to reconnect the lop cable but I realized the lop cable operates in reverse of what I thought. The control board pulls the cable when there’s low oil pressure so it’s not the reason this thing is shutting off.

Dewey responded and said they absolutely do sell the cable but there's a $250 minimum order size.
 
Last edited:
A

aaclevy

New member
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Location
Nashville NC
It started and ran for 39 seconds at 67° when I cold started. Had time to observe all gauges seemed in the green range. Also verified LOP cable position does nothing. Next attempt 13 seconds. Last night after it had started 6 times... and fully warmed up... less than 3 seconds.
 
Last edited:
Guyfang

Guyfang

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Are all these parts there? If so, I think if you replace the broken cable. your problem is going to go away. The cable provides some support to the red lever. Its adjustable.


1696794769735.png
 
A

aaclevy

New member
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14
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Location
Nashville NC
Page 126 - 0013-06 notes troubleshooting steps for this. Since the LOP cable is disconnected I think I just need to check continuitty between L4 (R) and TB1-2 ... And J2-B to TB1-3... It was shipped FEDEX so it's probably been dropped hard. If that fails im going to take the Run lever cover off and look at the pawl catch between run and stop levers.
 
A

aaclevy

New member
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3
Location
Nashville NC
Proof of concept et Tu brute

Also noticed my run handle has been bent over. No wonder it's impossible to fit a socket over that bolt. And that is the root cause I think - the pawl is on the run lever VERY close to where it begins bending. Phew RCA for why it wouldn't run didn't take but a few days. Thanks so much, I am honored you invested your time for me :)

Getting a welder friend to build a tuck away 'battle short' brace to hold that stop handle but keep it operable and allow for oil changes.

Anybody want to sell me a run lever w/LOP cable?

Like this but i don't need the control panel box. https://www.ebay.com/itm/235038059034?hash=item36b95c2a1a:g:W~YAAOSwtUFkfSgc&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA4LXh8z2rrEFe5GpPbuPVXoJMldfl11cWy2GyI4eRV4oje87NR3d9g3iyI6XfSuOWKaLiZRt0ZTu1elr2tmkAg7GFtcdMMng28lSKdf4Hhc9RkD7Fi8n+f4lebdu9qbuoJQb7WUhZxO5gSgpKlEY4WenzeaIGGdFgdU1+sxf9KRCDNPUunnFWGKG0cJiJhVCrfQb4sBNx2tOyGqvCW0MQN8aS65Cx8QMo8qM3TWxQbnZNx7vBt6n0Y1YsY6K5Zx/klskFMlBt/kH3Is11K3yv+/wigNYBC7PwC3YTW+Tcr6hG|tkp:Bk9SR4aQj9PiYg

Alternately i could buy this and fabricate the inner LOP cable to 420.1mm as specified. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234912654279?hash=item36b1e2a3c7:g:fUUAAOSwO4dj9bG~&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA0Dp4px0Pj+SPsTB8Y+k0PjLt1q2l0NJogZgI0YUrPC/Z6kizUr+LW7m8TG87ALGUolvsZyF5wPzZHhyFIwtGx7B7BcSRotlVf0cM6PPK8oBbDZnCgDwNABOo4GLFjRqCjXBNFAbaxIXaVXTd/vo0rvIT6w//fpSfMvnXCg2pxkG/nHnzrf4ADWbq+o8fCxxTPQAhzu5A8faRF0G0FOGCQyJ/WL5NUeHQEoUFgUeXDQh5xKL/GBdUBLIMrafxGP1dQ+k3L/pSW0ziPWvPNjaiuO0=|tkp:Bk9SR_LBhdTiYg
 

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Last edited:
CallMeColt

CallMeColt

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If it is shutting off at different times, the paw/spring that holds the lever is just worn out. Has nothing to do with that cable at the bottom. Replace the assembly, it's like $34-$40 and you should be fine. The vibration of the motor is causing it to let loose like you are releasing the stop lever.
 
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