MEP-531A Parts - Generator Set sold without Fuel System components

[agazza2]

I picked up a Dewey MEP-531A Generator at GL (San Antonio Texas) on 3-4-2013. The motor on mine is a Yanmar L48AE-DEG. These sets were sold without the fuel tank, fuel filter, and all drain plugs missing. After some searching I have all my parts ordered and thought I would provide others with the resources I used for the parts: The only thing that will not be original is the fuel tank, which I opted for a larger 4.5 gallon one for $19. This will provide a much longer run time than the 4hrs with the 1.5 gallon.

For Dewey original parts contact:
Argo Marine and Industrial
Division of Argo Turboserve Corporation
1209 Baker Road Suite 511
Virginia Beach, VA. 23455

ATC Government Division
PH: 757-460-4475
FX: 757-460-5607
JHays@argoturbo.com
www.argoturbo.com


For aftermarket fuel tank that sites on top, which may need some samll brackets built, I used:
www.surpluscenter.com

Parts:
1 28-1783-B 4.5 GALLON BLACK FUEL TANK $18.99
1 28-1783-V FUEL SHUT OFF VALVE FOR 28-1783-R & $3.99

Hope this helps out someone else looking for parts. I will post pics when all my parts come in and it is once again assembled.

 

[DieselGenAC]

Sounds like a great project and I look forward to seeing your photos. Don't forget to hook up a return line to the small barb on the injector on top of the head.

EDIT: If you want to convert to a 12V starter, I have a spare I would gladly let you have it for the cost of shipping. I got a couple for almost nothing and will pay the favor forward. I think they are Japanese made, not the Chinese starters for the 176F or 186F clones.

 

[DieselGenAC]

I have a few notes on 531A 12V conversions.

The starting system is completely separate from the rest of the controls. Swap in the 12V starter and you should have no problems.

The Nato connection powers only the starting system and preheaters. If you have a Nato plug and want to wire it to a 12V battery, go for it. I prefer to not mess with a standard connection to avoid frying something when someone plugs in a proper 24V Nato power source. I suggest adding your own connector such as an Anderson Power Pole or something similar. You can run the positive to the big stud on the starter and the negative to the engine block. There is an unused block mounting hole next to the oil drain plug below the muffler. Scrape off the paint and use a 3/8 or M10 screw and appropriately sized ring terminal. Battery power will back feed to the start rotary switch via the engine harness. I also suggest you remove or block off the Nato receptacle to avoid an accident. You may have to get creative with any negatives or grounds connected at the Nato negative.

The air heaters will work but I don't know how effective they will be at 12V. There are two in series so each one gets 12V when started on 24V. I have disabled one of the heaters so the other one gets a full 12V and it has worked for me well below freezing. The 24V supply attaches to the stud on top of one heater. The bottom studs are tied together with a small bus bar. The top stud of the second heater is grounded by a short wire connected to the top of the engine. Remove the bus bar and move the ground wire to the bottom stud on the heater with the supply connection.

Don't forget that the 531A does not charge the starting battery. You could wire in a 120VAC charger with a little creativity but I have no idea where you could mount it. If you mount a larger tank on top of the frame, you might put a charger in the space formerly occupied by the old tank.