MEP-701 / MEP-016 Glow Plug

[DDINK]

My first post on Steel Soldiers.

I just purchased 3 MEP-701a's and want to post my progress and questions.

Gen 1 has 755 hrs
- Battery dead but has a date of 2009 on it.
- Glow plug will not heat.
- Fuel to injector but none in cylinder

Gen 2 has 585 hrs
- No Battery.
- Glow plug will not heat.
- Fuel to injector but none in cylinder

Gen 3 has 4355 hrs
- Battery dead but has a date of 2010 on it.
RUNS!!!

Added oil, Fuel and battery and it started right up!

Question - Where can I find glow plugs? AC 19g is stamped on it.

I'm going to need 3 - 2 for replacement and 1 for extra.

I will post my findings on the other 2. I know I need Glow Plugs but the fuel issue is most likely the solenoid fuel cut off.

 

[319]

My first post on Steel Soldiers.

I just purchased 3 MEP-701a's and want to post my progress and questions.

Gen 1 has 755 hrs
- Battery dead but has a date of 2009 on it.
- Glow plug will not heat.
- Fuel to injector but none in cylinder

Gen 2 has 585 hrs
- No Battery.
- Glow plug will not heat.
- Fuel to injector but none in cylinder

Gen 3 has 4355 hrs
- Battery dead but has a date of 2010 on it.
RUNS!!!

Added oil, Fuel and battery and it started right up!

Question - Where can I find glow plugs? AC 19g is stamped on it.

I'm going to need 3 - 2 for replacement and 1 for extra.

I will post my findings on the other 2. I know I need Glow Plugs but the fuel issue is most likely the solenoid fuel cut off.

I have the glow plugs in stock. Check my ad in the classifieds and or send me a PM.
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/vbclassified.php?do=ad&id=6915

 

[derf]

I've had several with similar batteries, only a few years old, but dead as doornails.

I had one with a bad mechanical pump, not the electric pump or the injector pump but the pump inbetween.
Make sure you bleed the air out of the line from the injector pump to the injector.

Swap the injector from the machine that runs to one of the others and report results. You might just have two crusty or bad injectors.

 

[derf]

Have you tested the glow plugs with 12V to see if they get hot? Read their resistance? There is a pre-heat relay and resistor, according to the TM.

Also, you can wire the fuel shutoff solenoid to make it run but then you will need to be careful because you might have to unwire it to shut it down.
Also, there is a tank switch that engages the fuel shutoff solenoid if the fuel level gets low.

Do you have the TM?

 

[b2948kevin]

I had a couple of these that I went rounds with. Try compressing the fuel cutoff solenoid (looks like a little piston right next to the injection pump) when you start it.

On mine, I did all sorts of things to get it running, but the lack of oil pressure in the right places kept it from starting. I was messing around with it one day and pinched that while I turned the engine and presto! After that, it would start just fine. I just had to get it all primed up the first time.

Check my previous threads for info on what I went through.

 

[DDINK]

Have you tested the glow plugs with 12V to see if they get hot? Read their resistance? There is a pre-heat relay and resistor, according to the TM.

Also, you can wire the fuel shutoff solenoid to make it run but then you will need to be careful because you might have to unwire it to shut it down.
Also, there is a tank switch that engages the fuel shutoff solenoid if the fuel level gets low.

Do you have the TM?

The two out of three Glows are bad. They are getting 12v and not getting hot. I pulled them out and have an open between the tips. The good one shows something like 30ohms.

I put the good plug in the ones not starting but they just crank. no smoke out the exhaust. No fuel to the cylinder, glows are dry. I pulled the metal fuel line off the injector and cranked and I get a small amount of fuel. I would think I should be getting more. The fuel tank has fuel running back to the return so I know the pump is working.

I haven't checked the fuel solenoid yet. I want to get some glow plugs and fix what I know is broke and go from there.

I have a TM but trouble shooting for the injector is lacking.

"Refer to Figure 4-31 and inspect the fuel injector for
physical damage or leaks. If deficient notify higher echelon of maintenance"


I'm not sure what a higher echelon would be in this case

 

[DDINK]

I tried to pull out one of the injectors today. I removed the lines and clamp. The injector is stuck good. anybody know how to remove these? is there a special tool?

 

[DDINK]

I haven't figured out what to do with the batteries yet. I like the 4HN because it fits nice in the 701 enclosure but it looks like the cost to replace will be at least $150.

has anyone used a 24v battery tender? I found this one online and am thinking it will work but wanted to know what others do to maintain their 24v systems.

 

[derf]

PB Blaster?


Try Battery Warehouse at 337-462-1352. The lady there said she can ship them dry and you can have them filled locally and save on cost. IIRC, it was around $100 per unit.

 

[PeterD]

Also check TSC (Tractor Supply) especially their catalog. They have some rather odd batteries that they can get (but may not stock in the stores) and you may find some that are more compatible with your unit without dropping a bunch of money on the specified ones. (Yea, I got my MEP-004's batteries at TSC.)

 

[dougimes]

Hi Dave,

congrats on the gen sets. No turing back now.

 

[DDINK]

I received the plugs from 319, Thanks 319, perfect fit. That fixed the starting problem. I had to hold the solenoid back like b2948kevin suggested. The solenoid doesn't pull in and no voltage to the plug. The solenoid is good but I must have a wiring issue or some other problem causing the solenoid not to pull in. Has anybody dug into that part of the system before?

 

[b2948kevin]

Hey Ddink, glad I could contribute. Oil pressure was what was causing the solenoid to cut the engine off. Run it for a bit while holding the solenoid and see if it starts to activate after a couple of minutes. Make sure to use ear protection as this will also make you deaf.

 

[DDINK]

I found the issue!. The fuel level sensor was not working. After cleaning the fuel sensor the solenoid pulled in and the engine starts perfectly. However I had no voltage after getting the engine to run. I spent most of the day inspecting the wiring from the gen and found some of the terminal connectors broken and corroded. After fixing this everything started to work. I now have a perfect running gen-set that actually produces power!. 2 down and one to go. I sure appreciate everybody on this forum and the help you have provided along the way.

 

[kittypaw]

mep 016B stuck ip pump

Hi: I'm servicing two MEP-016B Onan. I have found out that the units are priming the diesel until they go to the IP pump. From there is no diesel to the injector and the pumpt seems to be gummed because the governor actuator is stuck and the rack adjusting mechanism of the pump seems to be obstructing the way to extract the pump out of the motor.

Any sugestions on how to clean or set free the pump, so i can take it out of the motor ?

 

[Smallblockfuelie]

I found the issue!. The fuel level sensor was not working.

How did you determine that was the issue? I've not seen any mention of trouble shooting the fuel level sensor in either tech manual I've got

 

[ETN550]

Hi, here is how to get the stuck pump out.

Bolt the pump back in place.
Remove the delivery valve on top of the pump output and be very careful handling the parts. The surfaces are lapped absoutely flat and must not be scratched or damaged.
Now you are looking down into the pump and staring at the top of the pump plunger.
Use a clean punch and small hammer and tap the stuck plunger down carefully using no more hammer than necessary. If the fuel pump cam lobe is up the engine will need rolled over in order for the stuck plunger to move down. Squirt some wd40 or similar on the top of the plunger.
Now while pulling on the fuel lever roll the engine over on the starter. As the plunger moves up the fuel lever will advance.
You may have to repeat pushing the plunger down and moving the lever until the lever is centered in its travel. When it is close to centered the pump may be unbolted and will come out.
Once out stroke the pump by hand and use the hammer and punch if needed to get it free. Once free coat it with wd40 and work the fuel lever to see the plunger rotate in the bore.
Spray everything with wd and reassemble, be extra clean and try to assemble in an environment with no fan or air movement to stir up dust. Particles smaller than the eye can see can score the plunger or hang up the delivery valve.
Once assembled prime with the fuel lever and then crack the injection line at the injector and crank the engine with the fuel on until a good amount of squirting develops at the injector nut.
Tighten the injector nut and start in the normal manner.

*** Because the plunger clearance is millionths of an inch usually it is has just begun freezing to the bore and the punch will knock it loose. If you see real corrosion then the pump is toast. There is no way to get the pump out without being able to center the lever so if it is stuck more force is used until it either frees up or the pump is destroyed getting it out.***

 

[ETN550]

How did you determine that was the issue? I've not seen any mention of trouble shooting the fuel level sensor in either tech manual I've got

Here is what I do:

Flip the lid open on the box to get to the electrical diagram. This is the only diagram that includes the wiring outsid ethe box. From that point the float wires can be identified and traced back to the large terminal strip in the box. Then with a meter on the terminal screw and with the switch on the lower float can be moved up and down by hand to see if it is working the relay. In a like manner the fuel solenoid can be traced back to the box as well.

Everything is labeled and there is a table of contents on the diagram. I have to use a pencil and paper to make notes as I trace the wires back and it takes a while but can be done.

The master switch sends power to the relay coil (K4 relay I think but check it) then the ground on the relay is completed by the float switch. If the float is up then the relay coil is grounded and the relay contacts will close. When the contacts close power is sent to the fuel solenoid which releases the pump arm to work.

There is no oil pressure shutdown on this engine.

Here is a good way to begin diagnosis.

Turn the master switch on. Open the fuel tank and move the lower float up and down. A faint clicking of the k4 relay should be heard. Only the k4 relay will be moving.

If the relay makes noise then proceed to find the output wire and terminal leading to the fuel solenoid and test it.

The fuel solenoid can be jumped directly to the battery to see if it works.

If the relay does not make noise then either the relay is bad or the float switch is bad or wiring issue.

The relays can be flipped and they are also interchangable with each other so if a relay is suspected swap it with another one to test.

The float can be bypassed inside the panel by grounding the terminal that the float wire is connected to on the main terminal strip inside the box.

Do your testing and diagnosis with the main harness plugged into the box and the fuel float harness plugged into the tank.

Although at first glance the wiring appears quite complicated it is actually many different functions that do not relate to each other. Each function by itself is not too bad to figure out. Challenge is being able to follow the wiring route as it goes through terminal strips and plugs.