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MEP-802 and 803 Main generator tip.

Jigawatts

Jigawatts

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Zed254 said:
Post 15: https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?148791-MEP-802-and-803-Main-generator-tip/page2
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Zed254,
I have seen the specs for the ones for sale on Amazon, yet there in lies the confusion, the specs for those are:

  • Resistor;Model : 14D151K;Max. Allowable Voltage : AC 95V
Max allowable voltage A/C seems low? Others have used the radio shack part which is listed to replace V130LA20A and has a max A/C volatge of 130V. The 130 sounds right, but I'm trying to be sure.
 
F

Farmitall

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Jigawatts said:
I am trying to find the specs for the MOV. I tried viewing the manual in post #4 but it isn't working? The MOV's that some of you have listed as using in your units have different specs? Some higher and some much lower voltages? Please forgive my confusion I'm just trying to make sure I'm actually protecting the quad with the MOV and it isn't simply decorative!
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This might help you understand what they are, how they work, and how to select the proper rated device for a circuit.

https://www.electronics-tutorials.ws/resistor/varistor.html
 
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Farmitall

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Jigawatts said:
Zed254,
I have seen the specs for the ones for sale on Amazon, yet there in lies the confusion, the specs for those are:

  • Resistor;Model : 14D151K;Max. Allowable Voltage : AC 95V
Max allowable voltage A/C seems low? Others have used the radio shack part which is listed to replace V130LA20A and has a max A/C volatge of 130V. The 130 sounds right, but I'm trying to be sure.
Click to expand...
130v sounds about right. You want the rating just over the working voltage of the circuit being protected. See the tutorial I posted....pretty informative.
 
Jigawatts

Jigawatts

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Farmitall,
Very good read! Loved the part about "In general, MOV selection for the electrical protection of circuits from power supply transients and spikes is often little more than an educated guess." . I DID learn a lot about MOV's from this! Great help!
 
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Farmitall

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Jigawatts said:
Farmitall,
Very good read! Loved the part about "In general, MOV selection for the electrical protection of circuits from power supply transients and spikes is often little more than an educated guess." . I DID learn a lot about MOV's from this! Great help!
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Its true, lots of devices have MOVs that are not correctly rated for the circuit they are supposedly trying to protect. Most of them being too great a voltage rating.;-)
 
Z

Zed254

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Jigawatts said:
Zed254,
I have seen the specs for the ones for sale on Amazon, yet there in lies the confusion, the specs for those are:

  • Resistor;Model : 14D151K;Max. Allowable Voltage : AC 95V
Max allowable voltage A/C seems low? Others have used the radio shack part which is listed to replace V130LA20A and has a max A/C volatge of 130V. The 130 sounds right, but I'm trying to be sure.
Click to expand...
I followed kloppk's lead and mine have been working well on an 803 and an 802. Here is the data sheet: https://www.mouser.com/ds/2/54/ov14d-777765.pdf . The 14D151K is listed along with a bunch of others. Someone sharper than me in electronics will need to help you further.
 
maniatopoulosg

maniatopoulosg

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Guyfang said:
The MEP-802 and MEP-803, A1 volt regulators sometimes go bad. When they do, the Stator is often damaged. The troubleshooting diagram tells you to first test the stator. If you find that the stator is defective, naturally, you change it. So after installing the stator, you fire it up and presto! Another bad stator. Why? Because you fixed the symptom, not the cause. So to protect your stator, from a defective A1 volt regulator, and from destroying a second stator, (not cheap) you need to see if your MEP-802 and MEP-803 has been modified. In about 2007 the following PS magazine article was put out. The accompanying Volt Regulator test procedure came from TAACOM. In about 2009 or 2010 the military started to modify all existing MEP-802 and MEP-803's. But a lot never got done. Sadly, I cant find my copy of the Modification, but it follows the PS magazine article almost word for word, BUT it tells you to put a fuse in between Q1 AND Q2 to completely protect your stator from damage by a defective A1 Volt Regulator. This is a simple and cheap insurance for your generator. Later, should you find that a fuse to Q1 and Q2, (Quad Circuit) is blown, you can start on the real problem, the A1 volt regulator, and not have a unservable Stator to boot.


View attachment 601656View attachment 601655
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Is this what you are talking about guy


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Guyfang

Guyfang

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Yes, its supposed to be different. Its NOT a relay. Its a switch. If you look just in front of it. on the metal floor, you will see, S14 printed there. Thats what switch it is. If you look in front of the relays, you will see what there are also. from left to right, K12, K15, K16, K19 and K20
 
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impi

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Thanks for sharing. My 1995 Libby was rebuilt in 2010 but this fix was not applied. The other was. Parts ordered.


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