MEP-802 excessive vibration?

[serial14]

@Daybreak Thanks for the tips. however, for yet to be discovered reasons, the generator isn't making AC power and all the electrical gauges aren't showing actual values or reacting to changes. I have played with the RPM adjust knob and I can tell the engine is changing RPM. However, the Hertz gauge shows no changes. Same with the voltage knob.

I intended to do a straight upload, no tweaking other than entering descriptions and permissions. I have much to learn about YouTube still.

I have watched all of your MEP videos and appreciate that you posted them. My lift rings jingle as well but that doesn't bother me. I haven't seen any videos showing as much front panel vibration as I'm experiencing.

This unit has many issues still so I'm tackling them one at a time. The vibration issue breaking wires is the one that frustrates me most, and thus this thread.

Previously the unit did make power, but the overload module would shut the thing down after ~5min regardless of load. Running through the diagnostic procedures in the TM showed that the overload module should be replaced, so I just swapped it with my other one. This one is either really bad or something else needs attention. I haven't yet traced the wiring again to confirm everything yet.

 

[Ray70]

Wow, that wave action almost made me sea sick!
So far I'm not sure I really see anything all that abnormal. It's hard to tell without a better video, but it doesn't look as bad as I expected.
Are all 3 of your control panel door locks working and do the twist down tight?
The battery vibration and lift ring jingling seems about normal so far and things will get tighter once you replace the top cover.
However, if you are still breaking wires with the control panel closed and secured something is not right!

Does the main panel harness go through a wire loop bolted on right near the hinge and is it secure?

On your 20-30*F temp difference, you have to be very careful to get an accurate measurement because the air from the fan will cool off the forward cylinder more than the rear. It helps to block the air from reaching where you take the measurements. Block the air, run it a while and take the temp. Also, doing the temp measurements at a reduced RPM and no load won't really tell you much about the cylinder balance. You want to be under a good load to do that testing.

Swap the overload relay back to original and try unplugging the white connector on the back of the fault panel and try making power again, see if you get anything. if so, adjust the throttle to 61.5 and shut it down and plug the fault panel back in.

 

[Guyfang]

• Any qualitative guidance on the rubber mounts? Again, the engine one I can poke my fingernail into. The Generator housing one, I can't. Should that be the case?

Hard to say. I don't know if the engine mount is the right one. The 802A mount is different from the 803A. Much stiffer. I have seen sets with the wrong mount, that shook like crazy. If its not cracked, and secured properly, its normally good. But is it the right one?


Previously the unit did make power, but the overload module would shut the thing down after ~5min regardless of load. Running through the diagnostic procedures in the TM showed that the overload module should be replaced, so I just swapped it with my other one. This one is either really bad or something else needs attention. I haven't yet traced the wiring again to confirm everything yet.

If it worked before, and not now, chances are you wired something wrong. Since you had it torn down, I would say you need to check just about every wire. And it may be mis-wired by someone before you. Happens all the time.

Swap the overload relay back to original and try unplugging the white connector on the back of the fault panel and try making power again, see if you get anything. if so, adjust the throttle to 61.5 and shut it down and plug the fault panel back in.

You will not get the hertz and AC meter to work, until the set generates power, And that's not happening.

 

[Ray70]

A little added clarification:
The reason I suggest putting the old Overvoltage relay back in and unplugging the fault indicator is that you mentioned it USED to generate power for 5 minutes, but after you changed the overload relay it does not.
Hopefully putting the overload back to original ( and checking the wiring as Guy suggested ) will get you back to making power for 5 minutes at a time again, allowing you to set the frequency / engine speed correctly before proceeding.
Unplugging the fault panel might stop the machine from shutting down every 5 minutes, depending on the real cause, giving you more time to diagnose it properly.
Maybe it was not the overload that was causing the issue, or maybe it is mis-wired, or maybe the replacement overload is bad as well? Gotta do some deeper investigation.