• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-802

Ray70

Well-known member
2,597
5,919
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
I assume you E-stop switch is pulled out and the CB-1 circuit breaker is pushed in?
If you have nothing at all, no panel lights nothing, check the shunt mounted near the right side, bottom inside the control box.
Also check the CR1 diode, I think it's 2nd up from the bottom on the panel to the rear left back wall of the control cube, below the 4 burden resistors, R10 - R R-13.
If either is open you will have nothing for DC power at the control panel.
 

birddog1106

New member
24
11
3
Location
southport,nc
I assume you E-stop switch is pulled out and the CB-1 circuit breaker is pushed in?
If you have nothing at all, no panel lights nothing, check the shunt mounted near the right side, bottom inside the control box.
Also check the CR1 diode, I think it's 2nd up from the bottom on the panel to the rear left back wall of the control cube, below the 4 burden resistors, R10 - R R-13.
If either is open you will have nothing for DC power at the control panel.
I got the power back with a LARGE HAMMER !! low fuel switch Hanging-up Installed new fuel pump 3181 I think was the number.Tks for your response VG
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,597
5,919
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Ok, so that would mean that you had 24V DC at the panel, you just couldn't start it because the low fuel fault should have been illuminated.
Were you getting a fault light when trying to start it?
Also, in a low fuel scenario typically the machine would start briefly then shut down within a few seconds with the fault indicator on.
Also a bad fuel pump would not cause "no power either", so I assume you had power, it just wouldn't start??
 

birddog1106

New member
24
11
3
Location
southport,nc
Ok, so that would mean that you had 24V DC at the panel, you just couldn't start it because the low fuel fault should have been illuminated.
Were you getting a fault light when trying to start it?
Also, in a low fuel scenario typically the machine would start briefly then shut down within a few seconds with the fault indicator on.
Also a bad fuel pump would not cause "no power either", so I assume you had power, it just wouldn't start??
AS Before,I had NO Power at on/off (red) button. dash lights did not come on untill that 5 lb did it`s job. Also the fuel pump E-8131 works great and easy installation. No fault light.............vg
 

birddog1106

New member
24
11
3
Location
southport,nc
In that case you hammer action had to have done something else to "fix" a bad connection somewhere.
The fuel level sensor has absolutely no ability to disconnect 24V power from the control panel, so I think you just got lucky, but perhaps only temporary.
Well we all have opinions and thank you for Yours..............VG
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,597
5,919
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
When the dual float sensor is sensing low fuel, the machine is still allowed to start each time you cycle S1. The machine will start for a short period of time, then the low fuel indicator light on the fault panel is triggered and the machine will be shut down ( with power still on and the low fuel indicator still illuminated). If you cycle the start switch and start the machine again, this same sequence will repeat indefinitely until you are truly out of fuel. At that point power will still be at the control panel and you can crank the engine till' the cows come home, but now it won't start because it is out of fuel. The 24V power to the control panel is never disconnected nor is it completely interrupted ever. Those are the facts, supported by the wiring schematics, not my opinion.
 

birddog1106

New member
24
11
3
Location
southport,nc
Well we all have opinions and thank you for Yours..............VG
Ray,Just got a 802 and it`s not charging the batterys.Had it ( alternator ) checked and was told working.Reinstalled and still not charging battery`s.Batt. guage on dash in Red ! Checked FS1 fuse it`s good Terminal in center of regulator showing 19+ volts any Idea`s................TU
 

Mullaney

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
Supporting Vendor
7,719
19,767
113
Location
Charlotte NC
Ray,Just got a 802 and it`s not charging the batterys.Had it ( alternator ) checked and was told working.Reinstalled and still not charging battery`s.Batt. guage on dash in Red ! Checked FS1 fuse it`s good Terminal in center of regulator showing 19+ volts any Idea`s................TU
.
Guessing that you checked the battery? It has electrolyte? At the proper level? How does the battery read with a multi-meter?
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,829
5,949
113
Location
MA
If you are only getting 19V, I suspect its bad batteries. If the alternator was output tested and is shown as working, its your cells as its highly unlikely (though not impossible) that you have line loss on the DC circuit. I would take the batteries out and have them load tested at an auto parts store.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,597
5,919
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
If the alternator isn't working your batteries should be slowly depleting while you're running. Are you having to charge the batteries with an external charger to be able to start it after it has run a while?
Rather than testing at the regulator, with the engine running, test at the Batt+ post , the slave port or at the starter wires and see if you still only get 19V.
You can also remove any 1 battery wire while its running, the machine will shut off if the alternator is doing nothing at all and it will stay running if the alternator is at least working somewhat.
 

birddog1106

New member
24
11
3
Location
southport,nc
If the alternator isn't working your batteries should be slowly depleting while you're running. Are you having to charge the batteries with an external charger to be able to start it after it has run a while?
Rather than testing at the regulator, with the engine running, test at the Batt+ post , the slave port or at the starter wires and see if you still only get 19V.
You can also remove any 1 battery wire while its running, the machine will shut off if the alternator is doing nothing at all and it will stay running if the alternator is at least working somewhat.
Ray thanks for the reply.........I used a 10 lb Hammer nah just jokeing..Found the FS 1 fuse holder bad so I went to NAPA and got a 20 amp in line fuse holder and that guage on control panel went to 30 amps !! went I srarted it. I checked one battery (voltage) and I was at 14+ so Problem Solved. Again TU VG
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks