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MEP-802a “non runner”

75
57
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
I just won a new to me “non runner” MEP-802a from Fayetteville today. It shows 16hrs on the clock. I’ll be heading out from Tallahassee on Friday in the wee hours to make it there by 1230. I will chronicle the adventure as this is my first long distance recovery. It’s mounted on the M1102 based trailer. Anyone can chime in and feel free to help me with what I may run into.
 

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Light in the Dark

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Tires on these sets run the gamut in terms of safety and quality. Got any old Dana 60 8 lug rims and tires hanging around? Never hurts to bring a backup roller pair. Past that make sure the sets properly bolted down, check the center hub temp after 10-15 miles, but otherwise enjoy the ride.
 
75
57
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
Tires on these sets run the gamut in terms of safety and quality. Got any old Dana 60 8 lug rims and tires hanging around? Never hurts to bring a backup roller pair. Past that make sure the sets properly bolted down, check the center hub temp after 10-15 miles, but otherwise enjoy the ride.

I’m taking one tire and wheel from my M1102 that’s a bfg Baja for a spare
 

Ray70

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Bring a set of magnetic trailer lights and zip ties.
That trailer is aluminum but the 2 main rails sticking out the back are steel. Perfect for magnet lights.
Use zip ties to secure the wires incase a light pops off over a severe bump and to keep the wires in place near the lunette.
Also bring a piece of chain you can use incase the trailer's safety chains are too short to reach your hitch. I always bring an air tank and tool kit, Just in case!
Take a quick look at the bolts in the coupler, I've gotten 1 or 2 with bolts loose and / or missing.
 

Zed254

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S. Hampton Roads, VA
Low air pressure in the tires (I bring an air tank, too), short safety chains (shackles and short sections of chain), lots of zip ties, tools, and monitor the hub temperatures. I pulled an 1101 out of Bragg with a tight hub and did not have the tools to loosen the nut so had to stop at every rest area I passed to let it cool....I forget the hub nut size - check TM. And Ray is dead on with the missing bolts tip: there were several missing on that 1101.
 
75
57
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
Ok so here’s my recovery parts / tool list I have
12v compressor
Small and large hammer
Small socket and ratchet set
Prybar
Flathead screw driver
IR thermometer
Ratchet wrench set
Snap battery impact
Light
Mag trailer lights
Channel locks
Small gen set to power electric impact
1/2 drive electric impact
4 way lug wrench
Spare wheel and tire from my m1102 to have a spare for the gen set
Ratchet straps
Bottle jack and secure platform to get high enough
Pintle hitch
Release papers
Zip ties
Do I need anything else?
all coupler bolts seem there in the photos to me. Chains will also reach my hitch.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
OK, it sounds like we do not have the full picture here.
Have you pulled a military trailer with your truck?

It sounds like you have.
If that is the case, then yes, the chains will be the same as the M1102 you reference.

So that also means you have a pintle hitch, and know about the height of a M1102/LTT-TQG trailer.

The same thing would apply from your M1102 to the LTT-TQG trailer with generator. Hubs, tires, nuts, bolts, are all the same.
 
75
57
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
Yes I have. Looking for more any info that may help me with this recovery just due to distance with this specific platform as my first recovery was very short at only 65 miles and I did zero asking and research before that one and probably just got lucky with the tires and cool bearings. (Learned of bearing issues of Bragg units with this thread). Guyfang also gave me hints on the gen mounting I’m just not sure of the number it’s supposed to have to be mounted. Also good to know it’s identical from the frame down too.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
West greenwich/RI
It's 4 bolts holding gen to trailer. 3/4" head and nut. ( unless it's been "rigged" by someone )
You'll be fine! I've hauled several of these home at over 350 miles one way with zero problems other than dragging the trailer's light plug down the highway once, when it came out of the holder. Just check things over before taking off and stop once in a while to make sure everything is still ok.
Once on the road you usually don't even know it's behind you, they ride very nicely on the highway.
 

Daybreak

2 Star Admiral
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Howdy,
OK, then you have the right height receiver setup. You know the length of the safety chains. You know about the parking brakes. You know about the 24v bulbs. You know about the axle bearings. (temp)
Tires = side stencil marking says 18 psi? You have run-flats in the tires. Either way, the tires aired up to 30 goes nicely down the road.
Lighting = quicky simple magnetic light set works great. Zip ties to ensure they stay put. and the extra wire coiled and zip tied.
Make sure all doors are closed and latched.
Check the brake reservoir.
Have your pickup authorization.
After a mile or two down the road, stop and check stuff.

OOPS, I see you were going TODAY early. Well, you should be back home then now. :cool:
 

nextalcupfan

Well-known member
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93
Location
NW Missouri
I guess I got lucky then. All I did was buy a Pintle Hitch Receiver and drive to the auction place to pick it up.
Hooked it up to the F150 in my profile (which made the trailer dip in the nose quite a bit) and drove 175 Miles home.

Only 2 problems I remember were the surge brakes didn't work at all, and I couldn't figure out how to check the fluid level. And the hubs got a little warmer than I like after driving 75MPH on the highway.
 

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75
57
18
Location
Tallahassee FL
So, got up there to Fayetteville 2 hours early due to lighter traffic than anticipated on I-95.

Guy that runs the yard there was awesome and happy I was early and we shot the breeze for a bit and I hitched up shot the tires to 30 psi and headed off.

One bearing set ran a steady 93-95 degrees, the other got to 120 degrees this was after 7 miles and I thought, great now I’ll need to loosen this thing. Couldn’t seem to get the cap off and didn’t want to destroy it as what grease was in there needed to stay put. So I rode 20, 50, then 70 miles each time the temp was 120 max so after that I rode 65-70 the whole way without problems. At my final stop for fuel after dark the problem bearing set had started running 95 degrees so I guess it loosened up or the break on the side possibly. No idea on that yet.

Trailer and genset are very “clean” and new looking but don’t see a tier 1 or 2 reset tag so maybe it fell off or is a truly a “new” 2009 P/U 797A system at 17 hours but I figure that to be unlikely as it has been into before as the plate and spring for the exhaust to enclosure weren’t right with the flap stuck open and found the plate laying in the bottom with no gasket in sight. So I have to find that.

All fluids are drained so I picked those up today and my local carquest surprisingly had every single filter on hand for it. I’ll need to find the oil drain plug as it’s missing as well but the valve is closed so I think I should still be able to test fire it.

There was some damage to the radiator cap and opening so I am working that out hopefully to the point where I can get by to test it and see if there are any leaks or noises. It that’s good then I’ll see if a local rad shop can put a new opening on the neck.

Also opened the control panel to find the fuse mod already done so that’s one I don’t have to do.

New parts so far are all filters, overflow cap, and radiator cap.

Still need battery’s
 

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Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
West greenwich/RI
Glad you had a safe and non-eventful trip! You will probably get lucky and have no problems. I've bought plenty of "non-runners" that didn't really need anything other than fuel, oil , filters and batteries, hope you have the same luck!
 
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