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MEP-802A/803A gauge lighting

Daybreak

Daybreak

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Howdy,

As you can see in the thread. There are 2 types of gauges used in the MEP-8xx units.

The gauges with a white back cover, has the little bulbs already mounted. You just need to give it a little + connection.

The gauges with the light blue back cover has the hole ready for a light. You can piece some items together to get it working. With all the talk about gauges, I found a nifty little part which works for you.

Datcon - Light Kit, 5/8 inches, 24V - 06294-00
pn06294-00.jpg
 
69birdman

69birdman

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I pulled the green bulbs from panel lights to look for part # , scratched of the green paint, now it's brighter, but would still like oil/temp/fuel to light as well.
 
Daybreak

Daybreak

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Howdy,

As you can see in the thread. There are 2 types of gauges used in the MEP-8xx units.

The gauges with a white back cover, has the little bulbs already mounted. You just need to give it a little + connection.

The gauges with the light blue back cover has the hole ready for a light. You can piece some items together to get it working. With all the talk about gauges, I found a nifty little part which works for you.

Datcon - Light Kit, 5/8 inches, 24V - 06294-00
View attachment 713251

The 3 control panel S3 light bulbs are
6240-01-470-4272
6S6/30V-G
E-12 Base, 6-watt Green
You could also buy them clear too.

Start back at the beginning of the thread for information on lighting some of the other gauges.
 
F

Farmitall

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Socket modification to improve reliability of gage light.

A modification to the Dorman 85805 socket to improve connection with the CEC 1820 bulb.

Upon disassembly of one of the light sockets, I discovered that the bayonet twist lock grooves are not on an even plane. One is higher than the other causing the bulb to fit a little bit loose and causes an intermittent.

To avoid this problem and tighten up contact with the center pin wire terminal, I added a small mound of solder to the wire terminal.
This takes up the slack nicely, will not produce corrosion as its solder to solder terminal to bulb.

Anyone using the listed parts is encouraged to mod the socket before installation for better reliability.

Some before and after picks.image (2).jpgimage (3).jpg

Kudos also go to kloppk for the parts sources and solder recommendation.
 
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Z

Zed254

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I used a CEC 265 bulb (24 volt) that worked for me in the Datcon 12 volt socket with no alteration. I figured the 24vt and 12vt sockets would be the same and found a deal on three 12vt Datcon sockets. I searched for a 24 volt bulb that matched the miniature 12vt bulbs that came with the sockets and ended up with the CEC 265.
 

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F

Farmitall

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Zed254 said:
I used a CEC 265 bulb (24 volt) that worked for me in the Datcon 12 volt socket with no alteration. I figured the 24vt and 12vt sockets would be the same and found a deal on three 12vt Datcon sockets. I searched for a 24 volt bulb that matched the miniature 12vt bulbs that came with the sockets and ended up with the CEC 265.
Click to expand...
What's the part number of your "12v" socket? The issue is that the 85805 Dorman socket is a little loose fitting for the same BA9s base bulbs, either 12v or 24v. BA9s.jpgNotice the symmetry of the lugs. The grooves on the 85805 Dorman socket are offset in height causing only one lug to grip when bulb is fully seated. If there is a better socket, I'd be all in for using it.
 
Last edited:
Z

Zed254

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Bought from auction site: NEW LOT OF 3 DATCON LIGHT KIT 06215-00 12V 5/8”. My bulbs have same symmetry for the 2 lug pins as your bulb, but the globe appears to be smaller. I missed the fact that you had not used a Datcon socket and thought problem was the bulb. In post #44 Daybreak shows the correct 24volt Datcon socket. I need to do a better job of reading the details......
 

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69birdman

69birdman

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I've searched all over for the Datcon 24v, the few I found were 6 to 10 bucks a piece with 8+ dollars shipping. O'Reilly auto parts has Dorman @ 3.50 each.
 
Overdrive

Overdrive

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Excellent thread! I just got into the MEP generators with my trailer mounted 2011 MEP-802A...

My gen had the sockets and lights already installed just had to make the jumper from the instrument light switch to the three gauges. I didn't see it noted here but the "stock" bulbs are just 194 24v. I ordered a cheep batch of multi-volt LEDs from Amazon and they work great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744LFFG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I will probably go with a better brand of 194 24V LEDs at some point but I just wanted something expedient to see if they would work. Time will tell if the cheepo ones hold up.

I also replaced the #6S6, S12 base, S-6 shape (3 each) green panel lights. Seems to be an old standard bulb and couldn't find an LED equivalent. Amazon again: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00JXI4CSQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Pics taken in the dark so only the panel lights are providing the light you see (no flash).

lights1.jpg

lights2.jpg

Now I have to move on to figure out what's wrong with the temp gauge pegged and fuel gauge reading empty when tank full... TM troubleshooting ahoy! :) Good times... Good times

Thanks for the great info!

OD
 
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J

jamawieb

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Looks great! Man those lights are bright! You can try to loosen the nuts on the back of the gauges that are holding the studs in place to see if that helps. Sometimes they are torqued to tight and give off problems like this. Then check the sending unit wires and compare to the manual to see if its the send unit. If the sending units are putting out the correct ohms then it's the gauge it's self.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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For the fuel Gage, if your arm is not as big around as truck tire, simply open the tank, remove the screen and reach in and find the fuel level sending unit. Move the arm up and down, and have someone looking at the gauge. Do not be surprised to find that the float is full of fuel, and hanging down it the empty position.
 
Overdrive

Overdrive

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Guyfang said:
For the fuel Gage, if your arm is not as big around as truck tire, simply open the tank, remove the screen and reach in and find the fuel level sending unit. Move the arm up and down, and have someone looking at the gauge. Do not be surprised to find that the float is full of fuel, and hanging down it the empty position.
Click to expand...
Thank you sir I will give it a try this weekend and report back.
 
U

uniquify

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I had a hard time getting the lamp socket to stay in the gauge hole and still hold on to the bulb. I could tweak the 4 tabs in the socket to grab one or the other but not both.
 
CapePrep

CapePrep

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My Fix For This

So, wanted to get my 802 gauges lit up. I didn't have the white bodied gauges that already had the bulb holders in them. So, with some help from this site I went this route. Bought the bulb holders and the bulbs off of Amazon. I have used these bulbs on my 803 and they work great. Very bright. Thanks to another poster here for finding these!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0744LFFG8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the generic holders
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00W8W5MR4/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The holders were to small for the gauge light. So, using the LED bulbs, I wasn't worried about heat, so just took my hot glue gun and dabbed a small amount on the holder and it held perfectly! I did have to take one off and with a sharp utility knife I was able to just cut the little amount of glue and it came right off. I know others have come up with solutions for this with the correct bulb holder, but I was not able to find those readily and just went with this. Hope it helps someone else. A cheap solution to a problem lot's want to resolve.
IMG_8193.jpgIMG_8194.jpgIMG_8195.jpgIMG_8196.jpg
 
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