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MEP-802A fuel tank removal.

kb3bf

Member
127
2
16
Location
Howard County Md.
Yup, and that means you have to bend the fuel line to get the Aux pump to fit in where the primary was bolted on. If the pump works, don't fool with it. Bending the steel fuel line is not good. If you ever need a new pump, get an AIRTEC. its round and a better pump. BUT, it needs a small extension to hook it up in the Primary fuel pump position.
I did not think the small difference in the pump extensions mattered that much since I was thinking of changing to compression fittings anyhow (like suggested) and make my own lines, but you have a point and for now there is no need to add more work. Got to get this generator working.

When it was purchased there was no oil sender and the line was plugged up. Right now I have a 12V sender, so I either find the right 24V replacement type (I have no make or model number to go by) or I read the oil pressure and do a voltage partition with a pair of resistors and keep the one I installed.
I notice that in several 802a images, one of the wires to the oil sender seems to be taped up, so I will try to read from the schematics why.

Roger on the AIRTEC replacements. Thanks for the info.
 

Guyfang

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The oil pressure SWITCH, fig.20, item 6 is a universal switch. That means it has a normally open contact, and a normally closed contact. So one wire is simply not needed.
Part number: 88-21126
NSN: 5930-01-378-6921

The oil pressure SENDING UNIT, Figure 20, Item 7
Part number: 02504
NSN:6620-01-128-3053

Apples and oranges. One turns off the engine in a LOP situation. The other moves the gage on the control panel.
 

Chrispyny

Member
294
12
18
Location
NY
Even though I made a makeshift filler-neck gasket with a FERNCO coupler, I found the regular replacement rubber gasket on Ebay and bought one.
There is one left in case you are interested. You only need to remove the smaller front panel to pull out the filler-neck assembly.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111907139736
Thanks. Just bought it. No clue if i need it but i will some day. This spring when warmer, i'll take the front panel off and find out, if not i'll spray the rubber reducer with silicone and pack it away for when its needed. THANK YOU!
 

kb3bf

Member
127
2
16
Location
Howard County Md.
Thanks. Just bought it. No clue if i need it but i will some day. This spring when warmer, i'll take the front panel off and find out, if not i'll spray the rubber reducer with silicone and pack it away for when its needed. THANK YOU!
Hi Chrispyny, I am happy you got the filler neck gasket.

The fuel tank of the MEP has been reinstalled and that part of the job is done with all the screws back in their place. The whole exercise has been a good learning experience and there are no more fuel or coolant leaks, but I have some issues with slow fuel flow and with the fuel run stop lever which I will deal separately. Tomorrow I am replacing the fuel pump with the aux one and see if the flow improves.

When I removed the battery pans and cleaned the rest of the mid section floor I found all kind of hardware and a 3/8" wrench and a soaked foam pad. The weirdest item item I found is a drain bolt .5" by 1" which I have no clue where it comes from.
If anyone recognizes it, please let me know.
 

Attachments

Guyfang

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That looks like a flow through bolt for an injector, or some other fuel connection. Fig. 4, Item 8, in the TM 9-2815-252-24P is a good example, but its been too long ago for me to tell if that's it. NEVER be surprised at what you find in a generator set.
 

Guyfang

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Speaking of fuel systems. I found some of he plastic hose clamps for the fuel and coolant system in my junk box. I will see if I can round them all up, determine what the various NSN's are and then let you all know. If someone wants them, I will be happy to send them out. You just got to pay for the postage.
 

kb3bf

Member
127
2
16
Location
Howard County Md.
I am interested in the NSN and any images you can include.

What I am in need of are the small Tees, hoses and clamps (if there any) for the injector fuel lines.

In summary am still getting a few air bubbles (a very small steady stream), and one injector line is not getting any fuel. The other fuel line does. I think the fuel pump is weak. I did not have time to try the aux. fuel pump as I am at Ramstein GE now and won't be able to resume working on the MEP until mid April. But the fuel tank went through a major clean up.

I'll include more images of the scrubbed 802A when I get back home.

PS. However I was finally back in Bavarian heaven after a year's worth of craving Schweinshaxe (roasted pig knuckle) and local beer of course. If you never tried it you don't know what you are missing. Wow. I know this has nothing to do with the MEP, but I just had to share the delight.
 

Guyfang

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I used to make the run from K-Town to the house here in a little over 3 hours if my wife was not in the car. 4 hours if she was. If you are eating Schweinshaxe in K-Town, you haven't ever had a REAL Haxe!!!!! You need to spend some time down here in REAL Germany. And the best beer in the world is made 30 min. from my house. Yep, you need to make a run down here. I will give you a tour of Bamberg and Kulmbach. REAL BEER TOWNS!!

When I get some time, I will find all the plastic clamps, sort them and shoot you a list.

If you are getting fuel out of one injector, then its not the electric fuel pumps. The fuel pump is not in the rack, or you have a stoppage in the lines someplace.
 

BadRobot

Member
153
2
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
I just got a dual trailer mounted MEP-802A with very low hours, 3.2 hrs. and 4.6 hrs. Both GenSets start and run perfectly. However, diesel tanks are leaking at the drain pipe. I just used your picture as below. Can I fix it without removing the fuel tank or any workaround? If I have to open panels on both GetSets, it will take weeks. I really appreciate your inputs / advise.

Fuel Drain.jpg555985_6465_161_0001.jpg
 

Guyfang

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Yeah, you can replace it, but you need to get the right part to get it done right.The rubber plug that fits into the hole in the tank, has a nut imbedded in it. When you screw in the nipple, it pulls the nut towards the nipple, expanding the rubber plug and that seals the hole in the tank.

Try tightening the nipple. You need two wrenches to do this. One on the rubber plug, one to turn the nipple. EVERY connection on the fuel system should have teflon tape on it. cheap insurance. The inside looks like it could use a bath, so maybe pulling it apart would be a good idea in winter, when you are warm and cozy in a nice dry building. If you get bored.
 

BadRobot

Member
153
2
18
Location
Raleigh, NC
Yeah, you can replace it, but you need to get the right part to get it done right.The rubber plug that fits into the hole in the tank, has a nut imbedded in it. When you screw in the nipple, it pulls the nut towards the nipple, expanding the rubber plug and that seals the hole in the tank.

Try tightening the nipple. You need two wrenches to do this. One on the rubber plug, one to turn the nipple. EVERY connection on the fuel system should have teflon tape on it. cheap insurance. The inside looks like it could use a bath, so maybe pulling it apart would be a good idea in winter, when you are warm and cozy in a nice dry building. If you get bored.
Thank you for your advise. I just ordered 2 x Fuel Tank Well Nut A3816 from Greenmountaingenerators.com. Number 38 from the picture.

Capture.jpg
 

Guyfang

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Good to go. Make sure that item 37 is also mounted. Sometimes its comes with item 38, sometimes not. Depended on the manufacture. DO NOT, I repeat, do not over tighten the thing up. You will rip the rubber portion, and it will leak once again. Been there, done that twice. And dont forget the thread tape. Cheap insurance.
 

The Captain

New member
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6
3
Location
Austin Texas
Well that confirms it, I’m going not going to take the tank all the way out. The tank has about an 1/8” inch of gunky old fuel, consistency of soft tar. I’ve been using acetone to clean it, works quite well, but is a very messy job. Taking out all the fuel sending units, replacing the fuel gauge sending unit and fixed the auxiliary fuel pump sending unit. Replacing all fuel filters, cleaning out all fuel lines and fittings. Replacing deteriorated fuel return line. Hopefully injection pump and injectors are not gummed up.
Wow. Your issues are exactly the same as what I am seeing with the 813 I just bought from GP. Tar in the bottom of the fuel tank, fuel tank sender not working, and minimal fuel pumping. The return line just past the rail is leaking too. I got it running just to make sure it was worth investing time in before going to all the trouble that you mentioned. Finally got it running very nicely unloaded, 55psi oil pressure, all the black smoke from sitting blew out and it sounded very smooth for about 3 minutes, then I shut it down because the temp gauge is not working (maxed out even when cold). I flipped down the front panel because I have seen where parts were cannibalized from behind there in other people's GP auction wins. Fortunately, it all looks perfect back there, not a wire out of place.
BTW, for those who think the 813 are "boat anchors" because they are 400Hz, think again. I have off grid solar and need a backup power source for my home in the Bahamas. All I have to do is transform it down to 52 volts and rectify in order to charge my battery bank. This unit was about $2200 out the door at GP whereas the mep-1040 I am using for my other property near West End was more like $9200 out the door. And then I will have to pay 40% tariff on the MEP-1040 but only 5% on the the MEP-813. Why? Because that is the tariff rate for aircraft generators...
 
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