MEP-802A GP Win

[Mainsail]

Well, some progress today. I got the generator off the trailer and on the ground near the toolbox and the house's ground rod.

RCamacho put the idea in my head to use an engine crane, and it so happens a guy had an ad on craigslist about 10 minutes from my house for that very thing. He used it once, was moving, and motivated to sell, so I talked him down from $200 to $100. I rolled up in the HMMWV and he called out the whole house to come and see it. We chatted for an hour or so, took the family for a ride around in the M1165 with the doors off, and took photos. He wanted to kick me back $20 from the sale he was so thrilled with the ride, but I didn't accept.

Yes, this is every bit as hinky as it looks, and perhaps more. I lifted it a few inches and shook the heck out of it to see if it would tip over or fall somehow, but when it didn't, I called the wife out to pull the trailer out from under.



I was surprised that even the weight of the generator near the edge of the bed didn't want to tip the trailer back, but I had one of the legs attached and it was still connected to the jeep at the front end.



Off the trailer I had to shore it up enough to get the hoist out, then the floor jack to get most of the shoring out.

 

[Mainsail]

None of the batteries I currently own are small enough to fit inside, so I tried a battery charger and a jump-starter. It cranked over using the dead crank a few times before the "batteries" weren't enough.

No matter, there's a fuel leak up top at the injectors- the lines are rotten and broken at the Ts and fittings, so I'll be headed to napa as soon as I figure out what size the line is.

I'd like to replace it all, but am not seeing how to get to the end of the fuel line where it goes out of the engine compartment towards the tank. I can't see any easy way to get in there short of pulling all the panels off in the back.

 

[Farmitall]

None of the batteries I currently own are small enough to fit inside, so I tried a battery charger and a jump-starter. It cranked over using the dead crank a few times before the "batteries" weren't enough.

No matter, there's a fuel leak up top at the injectors- the lines are rotten and broken at the Ts and fittings, so I'll be headed to napa as soon as I figure out what size the line is.

I'd like to replace it all, but am not seeing how to get to the end of the fuel line where it goes out of the engine compartment towards the tank. I can't see any easy way to get in there short of pulling all the panels off in the back.

Those are the fuel return lines. When you buy the new stuff, don't get any less than 10 feet of it all in one piece.

The easiest way to get the line from the tank to the engine compartment is to remove the housing cover at the tank, remove the return line from the tank and smoothly tape the whole new piece of fuel return line to it, then carefully pull it through into the engine compartment, using the old line as a pull.

Pull it all through, then make your tank connection and put the cover back on, you're done there. Then move to the engine compartment and start fitting and cutting the line as needed. The whole job shouldn't take more than an hour if you're working slow.
Removal of the top cover facilitates better access to the top of the engine.

 

[Guyfang]

Dont run it on those wood blocks. It will walk right on off.

 

[Mainsail]

The easiest way to get the line from the tank to the engine compartment is to remove the housing cover at the tank....

This is where you lose me - what/where is the housing cover that gets me in there?

I have the top off right now, easy since more than half the screws are missing. I found some of them in front of the radiator when I took the top cover off.

 

[Guyfang]

Item #18

 

[Farmitall]

 

[Mainsail]

The battery for the 802 is supposed to be a Group 51 (500CCA), which has these dimensions:

H 8.69 in, W 4.94 in, D 9.31 in

For the same price they have a battery (650CCA) with these dimensions:

H 7.44 in, W 6.75 in, D 9.63 in

Will that fit in the compartment? If I can get the higher CCA for the same price, I'd rather do that.

 

[Ray70]

You may have an issue with that 650 CCA hitting the tab sticking out o the side of the block due to the additional depth.
Instead of the 51, I would look into a 51R. I believe the 51R is 550CCA, which is more than enough for an 802! even plenty for an 803.
I'm not sure if the hold down's will work on that other battery either.
Personally I would go with what is known to work, unless you can personally try one of the others for fitment first.

 

[Mainsail]

Home Depot has the 51R for $150, my military discount will help knock the sales tax back. Batteries and tires have been killing my wallet lately, and it didn't used to be this bad.

Home Depot 51R

O'Reilly has an ACDelco for $130

 

[Ray70]

Humm interesting... that one is also rated at 500 CCA.
Most of the automotive 51R ( used in just about every Honda out there ) I have always used were rated at 550 where Group 51 ( opposite +/- post orientation ) were 500, for some unknown reason.
Regardless, 500 CCA is PLENTY for that machine, some folks use the small 280 / 300 CCA lawnmower batteries with no issues, but I think that's taking a big risk in cold climates.

 

[Mainsail]

My brass T fittings came a day early and the fuel return lines are replaced.

Now, to get this thing started....

I had the JNC 660 Jump-&-Carry on one side, and the 50 amp charger/starter on the other. The dead crank would give it a turn or two and die, and nothing but clicking with the start switch. The clips on the starter/charger are small and don't have much contact, so I needed a new strategy.

My jumper cables are connecting the genset to the house ground rod, so I borrowed them from there and connected to the battery in the Jeep.

Success! She cranked and with a small amount of hesitation, started. I carefully returned the jumper cables to the ground lug and house ground rod, then plugged a low-tech voltage tester into the convenience outlet – I’m making electricity.



I let it run for 15 - 20 minutes or so: oil pressure 58psi and the temp steady at 170 degrees.

Using my voltmeter I have solid 120v between L3 and L0 or GND, and the same for L1. L2 is giving me nothing. Frequency is 62 but since there’s no real load so I’m not messing with that for the time being.

OK, so now that I know this thing runs, and makes electricity, I can get batteries, knobs, etc and I won’t mind throwing a few bucks at it.

 

[Mainsail]

The -24P discusses some battery trays and hold-downs.

Anyone have a source or suitable substitute? I'm not trying to make a historically accurate show generator, so exact parts are not necessary.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I have trays and hold down sets available. Will PM you (owe you one anyways, sorry for the delay)

 

[Mainsail]

Well, apparently nobody makes a tray for a Group 51R battery, except Honda.

I rode the V9 Guzzi out to the wrecking yard to scout out what they have, planning to return with tools if they have what I need. I learned Honda owners cannot drive - the yard had dozens of wrecked Hondas.

Bonus - no tools required! I had several to choose from, picked up these two with the J-hooks and top clamp for $10 total out the door. Fit on the rack so no second trip required.

 

[Guyfang]

The "J" bolts and trays should work. You will need to fab up a new bar. Not a big deal. Me, I would use some shrink wrap on the bar.

 

[Mainsail]

Did some driving around town to find a couple batteries- ended up at walmart for $109 each. Not the best ones on the shelf, but (1) they had some on the shelf and (2) the next one up was $159.

Dug through my hoard of old aircraft stuff and found four matching wing nuts with lockwire holes. They'll do for now but when I was cleaning up the other two J-bolts I noticed the threads are ~close~ and not quite the same. So the wing nuts will be coming back off.

I only had two L-brackets for the floor of the generator to catch the j-bolts, and I wasn't making a 4th trip out for some small stupid part I don't have in the hoard. I'll do the other side tomorrow.

 

[Mainsail]

Second battery installed.

Starts easily on its own now. The $109 walmart batteries are only 440CCA but seem more than sufficient.

I still need to run down about 40 bolts/washers/nuts for the panels. Took off the top and checked wiring for any chafing, one had some very minor rubbing and another bundle was touching some metal so I got those straightened out.

 

[Mainsail]

Next up is weather-strip replacement. What works best that's reasonably priced?

 

[Digger556]

This is dimensionally similar to the factory door seals. One roll does most of a machine.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00SS0RTA8?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title