MEP-802a House hookup

[BlackhawkMTP]

Hello everyone,

Newbie here. I recently found this site after doing a little research on military generators. I must admit that since I have started researching these gensets, I have been fascinated by their capabilities when you compare what they cost to their civilian equivalent generators. I would like to thank the contributing members here for sharing their knowledge to people like me that really aren't that smart when it comes to this stuff. I have learned a lot by looking through the threads here on this site on my quest to gain the knowledge required to set up a standby generator at my house. I hope to do things right the first time.

I recently have purchased a MEP-802a that I found which I thought was a great deal. It appears to have 9 original hours on the clock so I decided to pull the trigger and purchase this unit. Before purchasing this unit I called my local electric company to track my usage and they stated that at peak usage since I have been in my house was under 8KW (7300) on a certain day when they said that I was running my heat pump and dryer at the same time. I figured I would be able to get away with the MEP-802a 5kw generator so that is why I purchased it. I don't feel like I would have to use my dryer in a power outage and I believe that I could turn off everything in the house or run my heat in emergency mode which is when it switches over to propane and run my dryer if necessary. I recently had my electrician install a plug (after looking through the recommendations on this forum I went with a 30 amp weather tight SCAME Connector) so that I could run my generator through the transfer switch that I had previously installed when I built the house. This house is about 1600 square foot but was built and designed by me to be very energy efficient. I have a propane on demand hot water heater, propane rangetop, a hybrid heat pump that uses electricity until it gets below 35 degrees outside then switches to propane, and an efficient AC unit.On my initial test run, I was running the A/C unit, refrigerator, 2 freezers some lights (all lights are LED in this house) and I was pulling about 20% power according to the gauge on the generator.

After I told my neighbor (retired military) about my generator and showed it to him, he liked it and the idea of having a military generator so much he purchased a MEP-803a. He has all electric appliances including furnace, water heater stove ect. His house is only 800 square foot. I am making recommendations to him on how he should set it up so I obviously I don't want to steer him in the wrong direction. He recently got a quote for an install on a propane generator which was 14k and a diesel which was 20k. He thought this was a better solution after he seen what I was doing.

After doing a little more research, I found out that it's possible to hook these generators up with aftermarket kits that will let them monitor utility power and start automatically using a transfer switch control board and talking with the autostart that has been installed on the generator. I am wondering if I might have messed up and should have purchased a MEP-803a so that I won't have to do any load shedding?

I want to make sure that I am doing this the right way so my question is this. Would it be best to install another electrical panel beside the existing one in my house that acts as a generator break out panel when emergency power is applied and only lets certain things run just in case the autostart is tripped and I'm not at the house to manually do the load shedding? I obviously want to do everything safe and I will be having an electrician do the electrical work. I'm no electrician but I'm trying to understand what needs to be done so that it's done right.

Also, Is this connector in the attached picture acceptable for my neighbors MEP-803a? He wants a weather tight connector like the one I have. It's a SCAME 60 Amp 4 wire Pin and Sleeve connector.

Thanks again!

 

[fa35jsf]

The first thing I would suggest is buying a clamp on multimeter so you can get a true sense of how many amps your house pulls with various appliances on. They are not very expensive, maybe $40 from the hardware store. You just clamp them on over the L one and L3 wires coming off of your generator separately to read the actual amperage draw on each leg. Don’t trust the percent meter on your generator unless you’ve calibrated it.

This will give you a much better idea of your true load. 100% is equal to 26 A for your machine.

So what you’re saying is correct, and your machine is truly only using 20%, then an 802 is more than sufficient for your needs. Also to take an account, is that the automatic transfer and start kits do not operate instantaneously. They can take up to 10 seconds before they restore power to your house. So some appliances will restart automatically after power has been reapplied, like your air-conditioning unit, but other appliances will require user intervention to turn them back on, like your dryer.


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[Scoobyshep]

Worst case if you arent home to shed the load the generators over current protection should prevent an overload. I have my 004 setup for autostart and transfer, and I've helped hook up several for manual control, it all depends on how far you want to take it and whos gonna be operating it.

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[BlackhawkMTP]

The first thing I would suggest is buying a clamp on multimeter so you can get a true sense of how many amps your house pulls with various appliances on. They are not very expensive, maybe $40 from the hardware store. You just clamp them on over the L one and L3 wires coming off of your generator separately to read the actual amperage draw on each leg. Don’t trust the percent meter on your generator unless you’ve calibrated it.

This will give you a much better idea of your true load. 100% is equal to 26 A for your machine.

So what you’re saying is correct, and your machine is truly only using 20%, then an 802 is more than sufficient for your needs. Also to take an account, is that the automatic transfer and start kits do not operate instantaneously. They can take up to 10 seconds before they restore power to your house. So some appliances will restart automatically after power has been reapplied, like your air-conditioning unit, but other appliances will require user intervention to turn them back on, like your dryer.


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Thank you for the recommendation. My electrician had a clamp multimeter hooked up during the first run. It was pulling 8 amps if my memory serves me correctly with the AC, refrigerator, 2 freezers, and some LED lights on.

 

[BlackhawkMTP]

Worst case if you arent home to shed the load the generators over current protection should prevent an overload. I have my 004 setup for autostart and transfer, and I've helped hook up several for manual control, it all depends on how far you want to take it and whos gonna be operating it.

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I'm a pilot by trade so I can be gone quite often. My main concern is I want to keep my freezers running in the event of an outage if I am away so that I don't loose a bunch of money in frozen meat. Also I would like to keep the house semi temperature controlled so that pipes wouldn't freeze ect..

 

[Scoobyshep]

I'm a pilot by trade so I can be gone quite often. My main concern is I want to keep my freezers running in the event of an outage if I am away so that I don't loose a bunch of money in frozen meat. Also I would like to keep the house semi temperature controlled so that pipes wouldn't freeze ect..

In that case with a smaller generator and unpredictable schedules the best bet would be a small panel for critical loads fed through an automatic transfer switch.

 

[fa35jsf]

Let’s also not forget, if you’ve been around this site for long, you know these generators don’t like to run at small loads for long periods of time. They are prone to wet stacking. You should try and run them at a minimum of 50% with periodic loads above 80%


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[BlackhawkMTP]

Let’s also not forget, if you’ve been around this site for long, you know these generators don’t like to run at small loads for long periods of time. They are prone to wet stacking. You should try and run them at a minimum of 50% with periodic loads above 80%


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That was my main reason for selecting the MEP-802a over the MEP-803a. I didn't think that my house would pull enough of a load under normal conditions to keep an 803a in the 50% range.

 

[Chainbreaker]

I don't know if this will help with your away situation or not...I am using a CyberPower UPS backup to my PC, modem, etc. and have it set to text me a message (using their free Power Panel Business software) the instant it senses a power outage and PC is on UPS power.

At least being notified of a Power Out status and if no one else is home you could then notify your neighbor, or friend, to do a quick "eyes-on check" to verify that your generator is running & house is powered up. Though, that's not gonna help much if your genset encounters an overload situation while your away. Although with you not being there you normally wouldn't have the dryer or much else other than your typical always on appliances: fridge, freezer(s), etc. plus necessary environmental support equipment running.

A load shedding panel would be the ultimate solution for "somewhat worry free thoughts" in knowing your house would not encounter an overload event during your away situation. I say "somewhat worry free" because as a pilot I'm sure your used to running through a pre-flight check beforehand.

I always run through a checklist routine before I start any of my generators and my wife knows how to use them as well. At a minimum, I always verify that there are no fuel/oil leaks before/after startup as well as verifying correct Voltage and Hertz readings prior to energizing the house.

I have several items on my ck list but they are unique to my home & my MEP-002a 5 kW generators (~7 kW at my lower altitude). For instance, I have a prioritized Breaker Panel activation sequence to insure the largest prioritized loads are first to get energized (well pumps, septic pumps, freezers/fridges, espresso machine...etc.). I can tell by the pitch change of the generator outside when turning on the high load breakers if that item is drawing power. That way I can choose to slow down the breaker activation sequence lets say if I want the well pump to finish before flipping on more high current breakers so the energy draw becomes more random rather than everything hitting all at once if I were to quickly flip all breakers on when initializing generator power.

 

[BlackhawkMTP]

I don't know if this will help with your away situation or not...I am using a CyberPower UPS backup to my PC, modem, etc. and have it set to text me a message (using their free Power Panel Business software) the instant it senses a power outage and PC is on UPS power.

At least being notified of a Power Out status and if no one else is home you could then notify your neighbor, or friend, to do a quick "eyes-on check" to verify that your generator is running & house is powered up. Though, that's not gonna help much if your genset encounters an overload situation while your away. Although with you not being there you normally wouldn't have the dryer or much else other than your typical always on appliances: fridge, freezer(s), etc. plus necessary environmental support equipment running.

A load shedding panel would be the ultimate solution for "somewhat worry free thoughts" in knowing your house would not encounter an overload event during your away situation. I say "somewhat worry free" because as a pilot I'm sure your used to running through a pre-flight check beforehand.

I always run through a checklist routine before I start any of my generators and my wife knows how to use them as well. At a minimum, I always verify that there are no fuel/oil leaks before/after startup as well as verifying correct Voltage and Hertz readings prior to energizing the house.

I have several items on my ck list but they are unique to my home & my MEP-002a 5 kW generators (~7 kW at my lower altitude). For instance, I have a prioritized Breaker Panel activation sequence to insure the largest prioritized loads are first to get energized (well pumps, septic pumps, freezers/fridges, espresso machine...etc.). I can tell by the pitch change of the generator outside when turning on the high load breakers if that item is drawing power. That way I can choose to slow down the breaker activation sequence lets say if I want the well pump to finish before flipping on more high current breakers so the energy draw becomes more random than everything hitting all at once if I were to quickly flip all breakers on when initializing generator power.

100% Genius on the creative way to get notified if there is a power outage! I have seen you mention this before in another thread I was reading a few days ago. I really like that idea but I didn't realize that the software was free to do this. Just need to purchase a surge protector / backup battery power for my computer.

I am looking for a load shedding panel kit now and I'm kind of at a loss here. I want to make sure that I get the right components so I am looking for recommendations. I have a 200amp service panel coming into the house through a Kohler RXT-JFNC-0200ASE Automatic Transfer Switch. I am going to use the INOVA Autostart kit with their ATS controller in my Kohler ATS. Any recommendations on a load shed kit that will work would be very much appreciated!

I am definitely concerned about safety if the generator is auto started when I'm away. I like to pre flight every machine before I use it. That's how I'm programed now.

 

[BlackhawkMTP]

Do I need something listed on this site ( http://www.pspproducts.net/GeneratorCatalog.pdf / http://www.pspproducts.net/GeneratorCatalogV3.pdf ) for the load shed panel or is there a better option? I will be talking to my electrician this evening so hopefully we can both get this figured out.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Really it depends on what outcome you want. If it were me personally I would pick the loads that must be powered and install them into an emergency panel. That panel would be fed by a transfer switch normally fed from the house panel emergency feed from your generator. you can use a contactor panel to switch individual loads as needed, That would give you alot of control, the downside is thats alot of control work that would need to be done.

 

[Chainbreaker]

100% Genius on the creative way to get notified if there is a power outage! I have seen you mention this before in another thread I was reading a few days ago. I really like that idea but I didn't realize that the software was free to do this. Just need to purchase a surge protector / backup battery power for my computer.

I'd like to claim it as my Genius creative way but I stumbled upon this solution when it evolved that way due to my quest to wring out more functionality from my UPS. After purchasing a Cyberpower 1500PFCLCD unit about 3 years ago I decided a few months later to spend time on Cyberpower's website to understand some of my UPS features and terminology a bit better. In cruising their website I ran across CyberPower's Software page and discovered there were versions of their Business software that had a lot more functionality than the PowerPanel Personal Edition software (notifications that would send a email or sms txt message triggered by user defined events).

Initially I wasn't sure if their Business software would run on my unit but I tried it and it did if I ran it under the "Local Host" option due to using the USB communication connection between PC & UPS. It was a bit tricky at first to set up until you become familiar with their event set up protocol terminology but once you do it works great in sending event driven txt msg's and/or email notifications.

I am definitely concerned about safety if the generator is auto started when I'm away. I like to pre flight every machine before I use it. That's how I'm programed now.

Another idea...you might consider setting up a couple battery powered remote Wi-Fi cameras, Arlo comes to mind, for when you are away from home. One camera focused on generator and perhaps another one inside house monitoring HVAC or even focused on a Kill-a-Watt meter plugged into wall socket showing electrical status - voltage or hertz. In theory you could then use your phone to monitor your home environment and gen set status during an outage while you're away.

Click open above quote for embedded comments.

 

[Coug]

Okay, so let's back up a minute.
So you purchased an MEP-802A and plan to set it up as an automatic standby generator.
You have also purchased a Kohler service entry rated transfer switch to use with it.


So your first question, whether to just do a secondary/sub panel with the loads you really want powered, is the standard way most generators that aren't full house capable work. Or have for a very long time. Most of the smart load shed modules are manufacturer specific, so doing anything other than just a sub panel starts getting a little complicated.

The problem for your situation is then there isn't really a safe/efficient way to power everything else you might want to in the main panel. There might possibly be a way to feed power from the sub panel back to the main panel, but that is something a very experienced electrician with a very good working understanding of all applicable laws/codes would have to figure out for you.


I did take a look at the PDFs you linked, it does appear that the universal stand-alone 100 amp load shed box would probably do what you are asking, though you would probably need to find out more about it and whether you can disable it if you want to control the load shedding manually when you are at home. You might send the company an email asking if it's possible to do an override somehow (probably isn't that hard) and can go from there.

 

[BlackhawkMTP]

Click open above quote for embedded comments.

Thanks again for the great ideas, I will certainly be looking into purchasing both of your recommendations.

One question I have is for a 60 amp connector, should I use 4/4 SOOW cord? The run will only be about 15 feet long.

I used 6/4 SOOW cord on my 30 amp connector with 30 feet of wire. Any input will be appreciated.

 

[BlackhawkMTP]

Okay, so let's back up a minute.
So you purchased an MEP-802A and plan to set it up as an automatic standby generator.
You have also purchased a Kohler service entry rated transfer switch to use with it.


So your first question, whether to just do a secondary/sub panel with the loads you really want powered, is the standard way most generators that aren't full house capable work. Or have for a very long time. Most of the smart load shed modules are manufacturer specific, so doing anything other than just a sub panel starts getting a little complicated.

The problem for your situation is then there isn't really a safe/efficient way to power everything else you might want to in the main panel. There might possibly be a way to feed power from the sub panel back to the main panel, but that is something a very experienced electrician with a very good working understanding of all applicable laws/codes would have to figure out for you.


I did take a look at the PDFs you linked, it does appear that the universal stand-alone 100 amp load shed box would probably do what you are asking, though you would probably need to find out more about it and whether you can disable it if you want to control the load shedding manually when you are at home. You might send the company an email asking if it's possible to do an override somehow (probably isn't that hard) and can go from there.

Thanks Coug! I will give PSP Products a call today so that I can inquire about their 100 amp load shed box and it's capabilities.

I would like to eventually get a MEP-803a also. I would like to have two separate plugs mounted under my Kohler ATS. The one that is currently mounted there and then put another 60 amp SCAME plug on the left side underneath so I can plug in a MEP-803a if needed for future electrical requirements at my house. I'm not sure if this is possible but I assume it is. I think it would be nice to have the capabilities to run the MEP-802a for longer durations to conserve fuel and only use a MEP-803a when that excess power is required or even use it as a backup generator.

 

[Scoobyshep]

Thanks again for the great ideas, I will certainly be looking into purchasing both of your recommendations.

One question I have is for a 60 amp connector, should I use 4/4 SOOW cord? The run will only be about 15 feet long.

I used 6/4 SOOW cord on my 30 amp connector with 30 feet of wire. Any input will be appreciated.

at 15 feet and 60 amps 6/4 is sufficent.

 

[Coug]

Thanks Coug! I will give PSP Products a call today so that I can inquire about their 100 amp load shed box and it's capabilities.

I would like to eventually get a MEP-803a also. I would like to have two separate plugs mounted under my Kohler ATS. The one that is currently mounted there and then put another 60 amp SCAME plug on the left side underneath so I can plug in a MEP-803a if needed for future electrical requirements at my house. I'm not sure if this is possible but I assume it is. I think it would be nice to have the capabilities to run the MEP-802a for longer durations to conserve fuel and only use a MEP-803a when that excess power is required or even use it as a backup generator.

The two units use about the same amount of fuel for the same loads, the 802 uses 1/2 gallon per hour at full load, the 803 uses 1 gallon per hour at full load. It's the fact that they are diesel and like to be operated under decently heavy loads that would be the reason for running smaller over larger. You can always add some type of a load to run them up at the 60-80% load range. Little household plug in the wall ceramic type heaters are pretty cheap, using multiple to balance the amount of load you are drawing (just make sure they are plugged into separate circuits so you don't trip breakers)

Having 2 generators does allow for redundancy and some parts to interchange between the two.

As for having 2 plugs, you're only going to want to have one operating at a time, so unless you add a manual transfer switch between the two plugs, there really isn't any point to having 2 separate plugs. You don't want both hooked into the transfer switch at the same time because power will backfeed into the one not being used, which can cause catastrophic failures of the gen head if you aren't lucky, and if you are lucky it just uses up a lot of power and makes a lot of noise (the electrical buzzing sound you get from a locked motor that can't turn)

There is no reason why you can't do the 60 amp SCAME plug now and run the MEP802 through it. The only real limitations on plugs is the upper end amperage, as long as you are below that it doesn't matter how overkill it is.

 

[BlackhawkMTP]

The two units use about the same amount of fuel for the same loads, the 802 uses 1/2 gallon per hour at full load, the 803 uses 1 gallon per hour at full load. It's the fact that they are diesel and like to be operated under decently heavy loads that would be the reason for running smaller over larger. You can always add some type of a load to run them up at the 60-80% load range. Little household plug in the wall ceramic type heaters are pretty cheap, using multiple to balance the amount of load you are drawing (just make sure they are plugged into separate circuits so you don't trip breakers)

Having 2 generators does allow for redundancy and some parts to interchange between the two.

As for having 2 plugs, you're only going to want to have one operating at a time, so unless you add a manual transfer switch between the two plugs, there really isn't any point to having 2 separate plugs. You don't want both hooked into the transfer switch at the same time because power will backfeed into the one not being used, which can cause catastrophic failures of the gen head if you aren't lucky, and if you are lucky it just uses up a lot of power and makes a lot of noise (the electrical buzzing sound you get from a locked motor that can't turn)

There is no reason why you can't do the 60 amp SCAME plug now and run the MEP802 through it. The only real limitations on plugs is the upper end amperage, as long as you are below that it doesn't matter how overkill it is.

I should have probably just installed the 60 amp SCAME plug from the start instead of the 30amp. I was thinking that they had to be sized for the generator but what you said makes sense. Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Scoobyshep]

You would be better off installing an inlet for the largest current you would be using. IE you have a generator capable of 40 amps and one capable of 60 amps. install a 60 amp inlet. Its safe to use the 60 amp generator and if needed you can plug the 40 amp in as the overcurrent protection is on the generator.