• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

MEP-802A questions

robert248

Member
37
23
8
Location
Texas
Looks like it will be a nice pad i usually throw plastic down if i dont have stone to go over the dirt, but wet the dirt down well before the pour and it should be fine. Glad someone has dry weather. another several inches here in ohio cant do anything.
Thank you! Yes I do need a vapor barrier of some kind. I'll get some plastic down!
 

Mainsail

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
1,505
1,676
113
Location
Puget Sound, WA
To clarify: my 802 is lag-bolted to the wood blocks only. There is no positive connection between the blocks and the pad.

When I poured the pad I installed four j-bolts to match the four holes in the 802 (not an easy feat). After I discovered the results of having it bolted directly to the pad was less than desirable (the glasses in the kitchen cupboard were clinking together) I abandoned that idea.

Slab02.jpg

Then I tried putting the isolation pads under the generator and letting it float on the bolts, almost no improvement.

Pad1.jpg

That's when I remembered the genset was quiet and low-vibe when it was sitting in the driveway on wood blocks, so I tried various iterations of blocks.

In the end, blocks worked the best. I drilled a hole in the bottom of the wood blocks to accept the j-bolts - it's not bolted, it's just a pin in the hole - that keeps the block from walking off the pad. The generator is lag-bolted to the top of the blocks to keep the generator from walking off the blocks. So there's nothing holding the generator down to the pad, if it were to jump up at all four corners simultaneously it could theoretically depart the slab.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
2,592
5,907
113
Location
West greenwich/RI
Thank you! Yes I do need a vapor barrier of some kind. I'll get some plastic down!
There is no need for a vapor barrier on an outdoor slab. In fact, some say it can cause problems outdoors by trapping moisture from rain, that makes its way through the concrete, in between the plastic and the bottom of the slab. This can supposedly deteriorate the concrete or freeze in cold climates ( probably not Texas ).
Vapor barriers are to prevent ground moisture from coming through your slab and dampening your living space or making the floor sweat.
Won't be of any benefit outdoors other than slowing the initial time it takes for the concrete to set, which can be beneficial in making the slab stronger if it's hot when you pour. Other than that, just wet the dirt if you want to slow the curing a little.
 

2Pbfeet

Well-known member
432
772
93
Location
Mt. Hamilton, CA
Great! Once you pour, keep it wet for as long as you can. Concrete continues to build strength for as long as a year if it stays wet. I spray water on it and cover it with polyethylene sheets. Keeping it wet initially cuts down on the shrinkage, and reduces the tendency to crack. I try for at least a week.

All the best,

2Pbfeet
 

grywitt

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
147
105
43
Location
Nm
Hello guys.
I bought an 802a and the jack needs rebuilt the piece that runs up and down on the screw and holds the foot is broken. Does anyone know where I can get those parts? Is it rebuildable?
 

rickf

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,144
1,675
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
Hello guys.
I bought an 802a and the jack needs rebuilt the piece that runs up and down on the screw and holds the foot is broken. Does anyone know where I can get those parts? Is it rebuildable?
You really should start a new thread. But a single 802 would have come on a 416 trailer would it not? They did not have a jack leg, just a drop leg.
 

grywitt

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
147
105
43
Location
Nm
You really should start a new thread. But a single 802 would have come on a 416 trailer would it not? They did not have a jack leg, just a drop leg.
Thanks for the advise about a new thread.
I don't know about these trailer part numbers yet but yes it is a drop down leg but it is adjustable I bought an 804 and an 802 and they both have the same leg once I got it apart a bunch of broken pieces fell out. I'll use my phone in a minute and show pictures. If I had the parts I'm sure I could fix it
 

rickf

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,144
1,675
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
The trailer nomenclature will be on the tag on the trailer tongue. It would be a 116, 105 or 101 most likely and I believe the only one of those that had jack was the 105 which is a deuce and a half trailer with 6 lug, 20" wheels. Does this jack have a heavy duty double steel wheel on the bottom of it? If not and it is just a flat plate or single rubber tire then it is a civilian setup.
 

grywitt

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
147
105
43
Location
Nm
The trailer nomenclature will be on the tag on the trailer tongue. It would be a 116, 105 or 101 most likely and I believe the only one of those that had jack was the 105 which is a deuce and a half trailer with 6 lug, 20" wheels. Does this jack have a heavy duty double steel wheel on the bottom of it? If not and it is just a flat plate or single rubber tire then it is a civilian setup.
Here is the tag. It has a flat plate. It is a drop down leg that can raise up and down. Thank you BTW for helping me to know how to find info.
 

Attachments

grywitt

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
147
105
43
Location
Nm
That was a subtle hint from Guyfang about starting a new thread for this so I will wait for that thread to say anymore.
Copy that. I was traveling the last couple days actually picking up my now third gen. Lol. Now I just have to figure out how to make new threads. Thank you
 

rickf

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
3,144
1,675
113
Location
Pemberton, N.J.
If you go to the top of the generator forum , on the right top you will see a button that says "post thread". This is where you start a new thread.
If you go to the top of this thread you will see in small type about the thread title the list of the forums where this is located. Just click on the "Generators" link and it will take you right to where you need to go to start a thread.
 

robert248

Member
37
23
8
Location
Texas
So the concrete pad is hardened and I plan to move the generator there soon. I would like to dig the trench next and run conduit and cable that the electrician will eventually connect from the MEP-802A to the main breaker along with the interlock kit I got for the main breaker box. What gauge wire do I need to purchase? What size breaker do I need to purchase? I was reading the TM on page 0002-9 and there is three different current ratings. My house has standard 200 amp coming from the utility and single phase power. On page 0002-9 of the TM it says: 120/240 volt connection = 26 amps 120/208 volt connection = 17 amps (3 phase so Im not planning to use this as nothing I have runs on 3 phase power), and finally 120 volt connection = 52 amps. I have not seen any 52 amp breakers for sale for my Square D circuit breaker panel. Its a short run between 25 - 30 feet. I'm thinking a 60A breaker and call it a day with 6/3 wiring. Is anyone running anything different?
 
Last edited:
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks