mep-802a running temperature

[Light in the Dark]

Have you ever seen this load work properly, or did you just acquire it? Rebuilt or not... those mufflers are often caked with crap from improper use. I would put a can of seafoam in the tank and put small amounts of load on the machine over a few hours, to see if you can get it up and moving in the right direction. It has taken me 6+ hours of stepped load to clean out sets before. I am about to crack into a new 802 with what appears to be molasses on the exhaust pipe (and nicely gluing the plate and exhaust gasket in place when the roof came off).

As for the oil pressure gauge concern... have you tested to ensure its wired up properly (compared to the wiring diagram), is voltage present at the rear of it? You have pressure (as far as the manual dial and LOP switch are concerned)... so either now its a dead gauge, or a wire issue.

 

[skwishst]

I bought the generator with the head off so I do not know anything about before hand. I rebuilt the engine since the cylinders were pretty rusty and I took it to the machine shop. so all new bearings, rings and a freshly rebuilt head. The exhaust is strong enough to open the flap I installed and right now I have air filter off but it was behaving this way before i pulled the air cleaner.

as stated in 9-28158-252-24: Locally Manufactured Water manometer


I will post a video after the snow stops, but a bit of black smoke that resolves to grey after running

 

[skwishst]

The generator was running fine and I was able to run on the convenience plug a toaster or a space heater (not both due to the 10 amps). The oil gauge was working fine. The exhaust was running clean with a little oil coming through (as expected with new rings not set yet) I wired the unit (post #10) and then all these issues started.

 

[skwishst]

so the gauge is reading 23.5 volts on pole I and 7.5 volt on S (compared to G)
The manometer reading was about 1.5 inch
i have a video but it says there is a file size limit. Any idea of how small i need to make this?

 

[skwishst]

video. wait it failed. it looks like i can't load videos

The following extensions are allowed: .zip, .txt, .pdf, .png, .jpg, .jpeg, .jpe, .gif, .stl

 

[skwishst]

ok, i made it a GIF

 

[skwishst]

sorry for all the post, but here is a link to the video with sound and all

 

[DieselAddict]

That look like its running on one cylinder. I'd check to make sure your valves are closed.

 

[skwishst]

I was thinking it was running on one cylinder also, that is why i was looking at the heating elements. I pulled the valve covers and this is it cold cranking

When I turn it over by hand, I hear pressure building and releasing on each cylinder and valve.

If you look though, the left side cylinder has oil on top of the head and the right does not. When I went in with a borescope on the exhaust ports, the right side is black and oily and the left side is black and dry. Is this a bad exhaust valve guide? It was freshly rebuilt but he did not replace the guides only the seals.

 

[DieselAddict]

I'd say the side that is black and oily isn't firing. If it were me I'd take off the rocker arms on that cylinder (exhaust first) then tap the top of the valve with a hammer. Put a wooden block on top of the valve and give it a sharp tap. You aren't trying to drive a spike so you don't need to pound it. You should hear a very crisp pop as the valve closes against the seat. If you get a dull sound the valve isn't closing correctly.

We used to do that in the shop when we finished putting a head together. You could tell immediately how the valve was landing on the seat. Anytihing other than a nice crisp pop and we'd pull that valve back out and check it.

 

[skwishst]

Ok, I will try that. This is a freshly rebuilt head, but I suspect the guides are bad. I had asked the machine shop guy about it but he said it was within tolerance.

I pulled the injectors and borescoped the cylinders and one was clean and dry and the other had oil puddled on top of the piston. Here is the picture.



in theory, I could have damaged the ring while installing, but I am getting good compression on the up and down by ear anyway. I also put my finger on the injector hole and turn the engine over by hand and got nice suction and pushing on the up and down, so I sure the rings are fine

sounds like either way I am pulling the head again

 

[DieselAddict]

Diesels make several hundred pounds of compression. It doesn't take too much of a leak to keep the cylinder from lighting off. The engine in the 802 will start pretty easily above freezing without preheat. Keep us posted on what you find.

 

[skwishst]

ok, I did this DIY pressure test

and on the left cylinder that is not firing, the crank turned to BDC (good rings) and I could see little vapor trails coming out of the exhaust port. When I place my palm over it, I could make 'fart' noises it was leaking so bad. Nothing leaking on the left cylinder that fires fine.

So, now I have pull the head and bring it back to the machine shop that rebuilt it for me and have them fix it (pro bono for sure).

Still should buy an new head gasket and valve cover gaskets (they pull apart a little) when I put it back? My plate mounting gasket for the water pump was also ruined (186-6182) but my original gasket kit included a cork one. Do you guys think that cork one (rather than the fiber one) is fine?

 

[skwishst]

ok, so it was a number of issues. The exhaust valve depth was out of spec (0.2 mm), so I put in new valves for that cylinder. It then ran fine for about 10 minutes and then was running on one cylinder again. I narrowed it down to a fuel injector which I disassembled and cleaned out crap at the tip. Now it appears to be running fine and I was able to get it to 100% load and reach temperature (180 degrees eventually with 25 degrees outside). The oil gauge on the panel is dead but the one in line works fine so i have to decide if i will fix the panel one.