MEP-802A Voltage regulator question.

[Huffy47]

I just bought a 99' year 802a with 156hrs. A few parts are missing. (Exhaust flapper, radiator cap, and voltage regulator) as of right now I'm currently working on cleaning the exhaust of rust, and soaking the cylinders, changing the milky oil, and working toward starting the engine.

My question is, will this engine run without a voltage regulator? Obviously I will have the ac switch open. I just want to be sure the engine isn't junk before I buy a regulator.

 

[peapvp]

I just bought a 99' year 802a with 156hrs. A few parts are missing. (Exhaust flapper, radiator cap, and voltage regulator) as of right now I'm currently working on cleaning the exhaust of rust, and soaking the cylinders, changing the milky oil, and working toward starting the engine.

My question is, will this engine run without a voltage regulator? Obviously I will have the ac switch open. I just want to be sure the engine isn't junk before I buy a regulator.

In general, yes. BUT...
Since your VR is missing, then there should be like 10 or 12 wires which are not connected floating around in your cubicle.
If the Ring Terminals are not isolated, meaning thoroughly taped off with electrical tape, then there is a good chance that you may damage something else if they shorten to the cabinet or other contacts.

Further,
Your genset sounds like, wait, there is more........

I would get the TM's and check everything, especially electrically before starting anything. I also would open the cover of the genset head and check the exciter coil and Diode Ring for any damage or loose components.

Peter

 

[FarmingSmallKubota]

I just bought a 99' year 802a with 156hrs. A few parts are missing. (Exhaust flapper, radiator cap, and voltage regulator) as of right now I'm currently working on cleaning the exhaust of rust, and soaking the cylinders, changing the milky oil, and working toward starting the engine.

My question is, will this engine run without a voltage regulator? Obviously I will have the ac switch open. I just want to be sure the engine isn't junk before I buy a regulator.

more than likely you will see a tier2 reset badge near the data plate so engine is will probably have a reman badge as well. Other parts of this generator have way more than 156hrs if thats the case so be through and do not get your hopes up to high that you will not find more problems. Good luck

 

[Ray70]

With the exhaust flap missing, rust in exhaust and milky oil, hopefully you checked to see if the motor turns freely?
Missing exhaust flap is often a sure sign of a stuck motor. ( rain goes right down into the cylinders )
Make sure she spins freely 360* before you hit the start switch.
But as for the VR, you don't need it to run.
That's the beauty... you don't need the exhaust manifold, intake manifold or anything for that matter!
Just fuel pressure to the metering pumps and a starter!

 

[peapvp]

With the exhaust flap missing, rust in exhaust and milky oil, hopefully you checked to see if the motor turns freely?
Missing exhaust flap is often a sure sign of a stuck motor. ( rain goes right down into the cylinders )
Make sure she spins freely 360* before you hit the start switch.
But as for the VR, you don't need it to run.
That's the beauty... you don't need the exhaust manifold, intake manifold or anything for that matter!
Just fuel pressure to the metering pumps and a starter!

Ray,
in this case, would you turn the engine over by hand first or use the dead crank switch?
My gut tells me, after reading your comment, to turn it over by hand first.
Huffy47 asked only if it would start / run without VR. Hopefully he had turned it over by hand first.....

Peter

 

[Ray70]

I'd suggest turning it by hand, either by the fan blade or a socket on the crank bolt, just to be sure the cylinders aren't rusted stuck, before attempting to crank with the starter and / or dead crank switch.

 

[Light in the Dark]

The engine should freely spin by the fan blade, or with a socket, if the belt isn't properly tightened. Cheap insurance... also pay attention to if the yellow flywheel can be seen rotating at the same time as the engine. It is not unheard of to have bolts shear at this coupling.

 

[Huffy47]

I have put a socket on the crank pully and it turns 360 degrees. That was the first thing I checked when I seen the standing water in the muffler and oil. I planned on taping off the terminal ends just to see if the engine would fire. But the suggestion to check the generator head itself is a good one. There is alot of surface rust on the gen head itself.

 

[Huffy47]

more than likely you will see a tier2 reset badge near the data plate so engine is will probably have a reman badge as well. Other parts of this generator have way more than 156hrs if thats the case so be through and do not get your hopes up to high that you will not find more problems. Good luck

I'll have to look when I get home, but the only date I saw stamped on the enclosure case was 07/99. It doesn't look like it was run really, the aluminum sheet metal has some sort of collision damage and of course the water intrusion

 

[Ray70]

If it's a reset the tag will be riveted on right next to the original tag.
Also 99% of the resets are Tan.
not that it really matters. I've had units with 2 hours and units with 6000 hours and it's often hard to tell one from the other just based on performance!
If you have a camo colored machine with the older, kind of plain oil fuel and water temp gages, your machine is probably original.
If you have a tan machine with the newer Faria Beede labeled gages, that is probably a reset unit, but either way there should be a small tag with the reset date , location and number of test hours to the right of the original tag if yours is a tier 2 reset.

And for the record, if a machine is a tier 2 reset, that does not mean that it has substantially more hours than what is on the meter. Resets were not done based on age or hours of use on the machine. Tons of these machine sat around for years with no use at all, then got the tier 2 reset performed on them.

 

[Huffy47]

If it's a reset the tag will be riveted on right next to the original tag.
Also 99% of the resets are Tan.
not that it really matters. I've had units with 2 hours and units with 6000 hours and it's often hard to tell one from the other just based on performance!
If you have a camo colored machine with the older, kind of plain oil fuel and water temp gages, your machine is probably original.
If you have a tan machine with the newer Faria Beede labeled gages, that is probably a reset unit, but either way there should be a small tag with the reset date , location and number of test hours to the right of the original tag if yours is a tier 2 reset.

And for the record, if a machine is a tier 2 reset, that does not mean that it has substantially more hours than what is on the meter. Resets were not done based on age or hours of use on the machine. Tons of these machine sat around for years with no use at all, then got the tier 2 reset performed on them.

I have attached some pictures of the unit. I would guess that it is original, but you guys would know better than me.

 

[Huffy47]

It might also be helpful that every fluid as far as I can tell has been drained, coolant petcock was open and it was empty of fuel

 

[Ray70]

Yup, that's an original 99'

 

[Light in the Dark]

Depending on your acquisition price, an easier option (if funds are available) is to reach out to @wheelspinner. He has/had complete LPW2s in his posession that I believe were looking for a good home. Might be easier to just replace with a working unit and move own with life instead of a complete teardown.

 

[wheelspinner]

Depending on your acquisition price, an easier option (if funds are available) is to reach out to @wheelspinner. He has/had complete LPW2s in his posession that I believe were looking for a good home. Might be easier to just replace with a working unit and move own with life instead of a complete teardown.

I do still have two ready to go

 

[Huffy47]

I do still have two ready to go

Thats actually very convenient because, upon further inspection the unit has a bent rod along with the rust issues. What is the msrp of the engines?

 

[wheelspinner]

Thats actually very convenient because, upon further inspection the unit has a bent rod along with the rust issues. What is the msrp of the engines?

$500 each+actual shipping