MEP-802A wiring to a breaker box/load center

[2hot6ft2]

Hi everyone,

I have been trolling the forum for some time now and learning all I can. Now I have a question about wiring up my MEP-802A. I'm pretty sure I have it right but since the only stupid question is the one that's not asked I would like your opinions on my plan.

The generator will be used for power outages and I would rather run extension cords for now instead of tying into the houses wiring.

The way I am doing this my question is whether or not I should leave the ground bonded at the generator. The bar is highlighted in green in this pic. unless I'm mistaken.



I plan on driving a grounding rod and connecting it to the GND lug and connecting the GND lug to the breaker box/load center with a new ground bar as shown in the following pic.. I have labeled how I plan on connecting things in the panel. Then it will go to outlets making load balancing easier.



The grounding rod will be separate from the homes for a couple reasons one of which is the location of the homes grounding rods location being too inconvenient to get to and a running a wire to it would be a hazard.

Anyways. Leave the bonding at the generator (I think so)? Or, remove the bonding bar?

Thanks in advance.

 

[lonesouth]

i have that exact breaker box. If you install the green bonding screw in the breaker box, then remove the bond from the generator. if you leave the bonding screw out of the breaker box, then keep the bond in the generator. I suspect both are electrically the same, but one may be codified. Were it me, I'd bond the generator and use only that one grounding rod at the generator.

 

[2hot6ft2]

Thanks lonesouth, that's what I was thinking, so that makes me feel better. I will leave it bonded at the generator. It just makes me feel a little better knowing the breaker box itself will be grounded and the neutral will go back to the generator before being bonded to the ground.

 

[DieselAddict]

Just to be clear, you are creating a separate power distribution system that will run outlets that are completely independent of the utility provided power system?

 

[2hot6ft2]

Just to be clear, you are creating a separate power distribution system that will run outlets that are completely independent of the utility provided power system?

Thanks DieselAddict. Yes, it will be powering outlets completely isolated from the house wiring. From the breaker box shown in the original post power will go to a single 4-gang box with outlets which will be inside a "Large SOCKiT box" to keep them dry. Then powering appliances by way of extension cords.

 

[DieselAddict]

Thanks DieselAddict. Yes, it will be powering outlets completely isolated from the house wiring. From the breaker box shown in the original post power will go to a single 4-gang box with outlets which will be inside a "Large SOCKiT box" to keep them dry. Then powering appliances by way of extension cords.

Ok, your plan will work. Bonding jumper at the generator. Not bonded at the breaker box. Ground rod at the generator will be mandatory since that is the bonding location. Ground rod is optional at the panel but certainly recommended.

BUT...

Personally I would recommend bonding at the breaker panel instead of at the generator. This will give a shorter path for fault current to travel to earth. If your bonding point is at the generator the fault current has to flow to that point before going to earth. This isn't a requirement but this is how "I" would do it if it was mine. I like to keep my ground paths as short as possible and this is a case where you are making one longer than it would have to be if your bonding point was the box. Strictly my opinion.

Check your local code and ask if you will have to install a "Main" breaker in that breaker panel. It isn't required per code but is can be required by local authorities. I've run into that situation before in NC. If this is an inspected job it could save you a reinspect fee.

 

[2hot6ft2]

I plan on cutting a 15' 50A RV extension cord in half connecting the half with the female end to the generator lugs so there wont be any exposed conductors on the generator side. Then wiring the half of the cable with the male end to the breaker box. The breaker box along with the SOCKiT box containing the outlets will be portable that way so I can store them out of the way and weather until needed.

I will probably mount them to an old push mower deck to make it easy to move around when needed. Ah, the possibilities.

If I ground the breaker box directly to the grounding rod that would mean I would have to connect/disconnect the conductor at the rod when connecting/disconnecting from the generator.

Thanks for the ideas though you got me pondering more options.

 

[DieselAddict]

If I ground the breaker box directly to the grounding rod that would mean I would have to connect/disconnect the conductor at the rod when connecting/disconnecting from the generator.

Ah. Ok. Understandable. Is the generator on a trailer or perm. mounted?

 

[2hot6ft2]

Ah. Ok. Understandable. Is the generator on a trailer or perm. mounted?

No it's just resting on the ground with some blocks and boards to level it. I plan on building a Quonset hut type shop at some point and moving it next to that. Then it will be wired into the load center for that.

 

[DieselAddict]

No it's just resting on the ground with some blocks and boards to level it. I plan on building a Quonset hut type shop at some point and moving it next to that. Then it will be wired into the load center for that.

Ok. Just making sure. If the generator is vehicle mounted there are some difference in the connections you have to be aware of but if its not going to be in a vehicle/trailer then it won't apply.

If you build a metal frame over the generator the frame of the building has to be connected to the ground of the generator.

 

[2hot6ft2]

Ok. Just making sure. If the generator is vehicle mounted there are some difference in the connections you have to be aware of but if its not going to be in a vehicle/trailer then it won't apply.

If you build a metal frame over the generator the frame of the building has to be connected to the ground of the generator.

I appreciate it.

That makes sense. Otherwise grabbing the metal frame and the generator at the same time could be very enlightening.

If trailer mounted it has to be grounded to the trailer. I read that here on the forum.

When I build the shop the generator will be outside of it and there will be a transfer switch setup. Lots of great info. on that type of setup here too.

 

[DieselAddict]

Sounds like you are pointed in the right direction. Carry on!

 

[2hot6ft2]

Sounds like you are pointed in the right direction. Carry on!

Thanks again for the help. Have a great day.