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MEP-803 - Load testing not successful

M

mesias

Member
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Location
South Florida
I removed the 4th cylinder IP and checked its thrust cup and the one for the third cylinder. I turned the crankshaft from the radiator fan and the thrust cups didn't move a bit.

20200623183807.jpg

I was afraid to dead crank it in case something can fly out since the IP is not in place. Should the thrust cups move by just turning the crankshaft? If so, these are stuck... what's the best way of free them?
 
J

jamawieb

Well-known member
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Location
Ripley/TN
mesias said:
I removed the 4th cylinder IP and checked its thrust cup and the one for the third cylinder. I turned the crankshaft from the radiator fan and the thrust cups didn't move a bit.

View attachment 804141

I was afraid to dead crank it in case something can fly out since the IP is not in place. Should the thrust cups move by just turning the crankshaft? If so, these are stuck... what's the best way of free them?
Click to expand...
Yes it should move but you need to make sure you do a full rotation of the motor to see it turn. From your video of start up and stop, it looks good. Have you pop tested the injectors? I know you said you checked them and cleaned but how did you check them?
 
M

mesias

Member
62
55
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Location
South Florida
It was false alarm, the tappet for each cylinder moves... phew! I'm learning as I go here, it actually takes a full rotation to see movement in the tappet. That's a relieve after all. I'm back to the pumps...
The IP for the 4th cylinder looks OK also, the internal spacer/washer is also OK.
Just to confirm, with the IP in place and the fuel line to the injector disconnected, should I see a burst of fuel if I crank the motor?
I couldn't test the injectors after cleaning them but I can do it now if I can confirm the pumps are working.
 
R

Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
West greenwich/RI
Yes, with the IP in place, rubber fuel line attached and injector line disconnected or loose ( loose may help induce more of a spray than a dribble with no line attached ) you should get a very small spurt of fuel out of each IP.
However.... 2 things. Don't use the dead crank switch, that won't give you any fuel.
You should also let the main fuel pump run a bit to help bleed out air, then crank it from the S1 switch or if it will start, let it start and then crack the injector line open and look for a small fuel spurt.
 
M

mesias

Member
62
55
18
Location
South Florida
The IP for third cylinder was bad... I don't know what's wrong with it but I tried replacing the washer with one from another IP and still nothing. I also had a very hard time installing the IP, for some reason the lever wouldn't fall properly in the rack. I had to play with it a lot to get it in place... all in vain.
I purchased a new IP from Gary Jones @ Diesel Electric Services, installed it and problem solved. Today I tested the genset for three hours at 85%, no issues. All wet stacking is now burnt out and it sounds fantastic.
The Operator Manual states the oil pressure should be between 25 and 60 psi... my unit stayed at 25 psi while running at rated load. Is this OK?

Thanks again for all the help!
 
B

Bmxenbrett

Member
602
30
18
Location
NY
Go through the IP clocking process. By turning them your giving more/less fuel to that cylinder.

Also since you have two new ones you can switch them between cylinders and measure the temp.

Personally even if I found one bad IP I would replace all of them. They have all had the same fuel ran through them.
 
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