MEP 803 return fuel line fittings

[Jerds19]

Hey all, I'm sure someone more smarter than me can find the thread that answers this question because it HAS to have been asked before, but I just couldn't find it!!!

My return lines from the injector up to the fuel rail are leaking (as they all do eventually it appears) but mine seem to have some odd crimpped fitting where they go into the return rail. The bottom of them is just pressed over a barb with a hose clamp it looks like, so that won't be a problem. (I've seen other videos where people have T fittings, possibly older molders? And in the thread referenced here in this awesome post it's my exact return rail, and they used line and clamps, which is exactly what I want to do.)

My question is how do I remove the top "crimped" metal portion as shown in this picture where it goes into the part I am probably incorrectly calling a "return rail".

Also from the awesome post linked above, I am FAIRLY certain I need to get 1/4" / 6.3mm line and associated clamps, once I figure out how to get the crimped fitting off, is this accurate?

I am ASSUMMING I just need to take a cutoff disk to the crimped fittings and cut a slit it them to remove them, and it will expose a 1/4" barb underneath and I'll be fine from there? Or is this a special system that isn't adaptable and I need to get barbs, T's, fittings and make a whole new "system" to accommodate the return fuel?
Thanks in advance, and if there is another post already addressing this I will GLADLY click any provided link since I was unable to find it myself!

 

[kloppk]

I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the side of the metal collars and then just pry them off.
Replace the hose with new, use a gentle bend in the hose and re-attach with some S.S. hose clamps.

 

[Jerds19]

I use a Dremel with a cut off wheel to cut the side of the metal collars and then just pry them off.
Replace the hose with new, use a gentle bend in the hose and re-attach with some S.S. hose clamps.

You rock sir!! I don't know if you remember or not, but you helped me fix a frequency relay issue on my other generator about 2 years ago!! You probably help with a lot of problems, much appreciated!!!

 

[Light in the Dark]

Dremel with caution... very easy to pass into the barb which its grabbing onto. I use a pair of vice grips and squeeze the ridges of the cap together, which makes a raised area on the cap... which I can then cut with metal shears or a shear/crimp tool.

Kurt covered the rest.

 

[fb40dash5]

It is in fact 1/4" hose, BTW. I used EFI rated just cuz... hopefully it lasts longer. And cuz it's, like, 1 whole foot of it.

FYI, that's actually the supply to the metering pumps. The small line off the end of the rail hooks to the return line from the injectors, though.

 

[Jerds19]

It is in fact 1/4" hose, BTW. I used EFI rated just cuz... hopefully it lasts longer. And cuz it's, like, 1 whole foot of it.

FYI, that's actually the supply to the metering pumps. The small line off the end of the rail hooks to the return line from the injectors, though.

Thanks for the clarification, love learning more about how things work! (at least I knew it had fuel in it!!! haha)

 

[Jerds19]

UPDATE: Did as ya'll suggest, squeezed the crimps together which caused a bulge and used a Dremel with cutoff wheel, took about 2 minutes total to cut all the crimps off, another 3 minutes to twist off all the hoses and deal with the hose crimps, then another 3 minutes to put on new generic 1/4" ID lines with clamps and the project was done! Seriously 10 maybe 15 minutes to do the whole thing, helped a ton knowing what to expect going into it and having the exact right parts already in hand when we started, thank you all!!