MEP 803 smoking under load.

[Sidis8]

Hey everyone

took the advice from the other threads and took off the muffler. Got it running and loaded it up to 105% and I can clearly see 2 cylinders puffing smoke. The other two seem to be running okay. Had it running for like 10 minutes and can see the carbon build up on the valve covers. I’ll attach a pic

what do you guys think ? IP or injector issue ?

 

[DieselAddict]

Don’t think we have enough info to say.

How many hours on the set?

Can we get more history? Is this a new problem?

 

[Ray70]

Some smoke at 105% load is not uncommon. I'm actually surprised that only one cyl is smoking.
My first thought is either metering pump timing or metering pump flow adjustment slight off on that cyl.
You could check cyl. temps on a 4 cylinders and see if the smoker is hotter than the rest and also check to see if the fuel inlet lines to all 4 pumps are pretty much touching the adjacent pushrod tubes. If that cylinder is moved away from the tube, the pump flow will be greater than the other 3.

 

[Sidis8]

Don’t think we have enough info to say.

How many hours on the set?

Can we get more history? Is this a new problem?

Only 270 hrs on it, picked it few months ago but just getting to it. Too many darn projects In The works lol

 

[Sidis8]

Some smoke at 105% load is not uncommon. I'm actually surprised that only one cyl is smoking.
My first thought is either metering pump timing or metering pump flow adjustment slight off on that cyl.
You could check cyl. temps on a 4 cylinders and see if the smoker is hotter than the rest and also check to see if the fuel inlet lines to all 4 pumps are pretty much touching the adjacent pushrod tubes. If that cylinder is moved away from the tube, the pump flow will be greater than the other 3.

messing with it now. Will update.

found another problem, looked down by the battery on the right side, saw a lot of oil. Had a mini heart attack lol. Wiped it all down.

then ran it again and saw it’s leaking from the seal, I think it’s the fuel shut off solenoid. Another thing to fix.

 

[Ray70]

Oh boy... that's not the easiest repair to make. The timing cover has to come off to take the fuel lever off and replace the o-ring.
The lever is 2 pieces that you have to separate in order to pull it out.
You have to remove bolt #18

 

[DieselAddict]

How was load measured? The onboard load meter or with an external amp meter?

 

[Sidis8]

How was load measured? The onboard load meter or with an external amp meter?

External amp meter

 

[Sidis8]

Oh boy... that's not the easiest repair to make. The timing cover has to come off to take the fuel lever off and replace the o-ring.
The lever is 2 pieces that you have to separate in order to pull it out.
You have to remove bolt #18
View attachment 905946

got it torn apart, was not too bad. Now for the fun part. Getting that fuel shut off solenoid shaft out.

 

[Sidis8]

How was load measured? The onboard load meter or with an external amp meter?

Got the oring out, doesn’t look too bad.

but can’t hurt to replace it.

 

[Sidis8]

Got the oring out, doesn’t look too bad.

but can’t hurt to replace it.

 

[Sidis8]

I found a tear down video online. It’s pretty good. It’s three parts.

Hopefully I can get this assembly back in with out Taking the crankshaft out. It looks tight but doable.

In the first picture you can see the little spring. When I pulled this out, mine was not engaged, it was just hanging there

 

[Ray70]

I'm not 100% sure you have that spring on there correctly.
I believe the straight side of the spring is supposed to push against the side of the block and should rotate the lever clockwise when the solenoid is out of the way. The TM does not give very good instructions on how to install the spring, but just make sure it's correct before you button everything up.
If you're unable to find the correct orientation, I think I have a bare block or 2 in my storage pile which should still have the lever and spring installed, if you need me to verify it?