MEP-803 Starting Issues

[CT-Mike]

So my 803 typically starts with no issues. Today I went out to start for monthly run prior to the high winds and heavy rains that are coming this way.

Fuel pump clicked away in prime and run. After 30 seconds I went to start and nothing. No clicks, no noise, nothing.

It happily cranked away using the dead crank switch. Tried to start, nothing. After the third or fourth time dead cranking, it finally started and is running fine.

Off the top of my head it seems likely a loose relay, or other connection. Any one have any ideas on where I should start looking?

Thanks.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Whats your battery voltage registering at?

 

[CT-Mike]

I keep a NoCo Genius 7200 on it at all times, I just disconnect prior to starting. I will check voltage of the batteries after I shut it down and report back.

 

[Farmitall]

There is a color schematic somewhere in these threads that shows the DC circuitry under different conditions, each marked with a different color.

I'd start with that and identify the few components involved in the starting condition ( its marked in green) then check all connections for cleanliness and tightness.

If just removed a charger/maintainer and your set is cranking away strong using the dead crank switch, I doubt very much that its a battery voltage issue.

 

[Guyfang]

What type start switch do you have? If you don't know, take a picture of it and post it. When you have a starting problem, it all starts, with the S1 start switch. Troubleshooting. Start at the beginning. Do you now still have the problem? If you can't recreate the problem, you can't find the problem.

 

[Light in the Dark]

Do you have the -24 manual for this set? Under section 2-12 "1. ENGINE FAILS TO CRANK." Start there.

 

[Farmitall]

What type start switch do you have? If you don't know, take a picture of it and post it. When you have a starting problem, it all starts, with the S1 start switch. Troubleshooting. Start at the beginning. Do you now still have the problem? If you can't recreate the problem, you can't find the problem.

Agree and I was going to post the same thing but was trying to spur him to break out the schematics.

Mechanical devices are always a good first place to start trouble shooting. That switch sees use every start up.

Reminds me of my instructor in electronics class when we were repairing TVs. He always said start at the mechanical tuner, provided that the set turned on ok, as people would wear them out flipping channels and he was right a majority of time.

 

[CT-Mike]

Here are the photos of the S1 switch.

 

[Guyfang]

Good! New type. So if it worked before, it should not be a problem now. That doesn't mean we should not check it, just its not normally a problem area. Had it been a type 1 or type 2, different deal. Like I posted before, can you duplicate the fault? If you try and start it now, will it? You cant find a fault, it the set works right.

What is all this extra stuff I see in the picture? There are a few wires that are add on.

 

[Light in the Dark]

I think the extra wires you see are to the panel switch for the arctic preheat.

 

[CT-Mike]

Yup, the extra wiring is for the diesel fired arctic coolant heater.

 

[Guyfang]

If thats so, then they should not be a part of the problem.