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Mep 803

kevin66

New member
22
11
3
Location
St Johns MI
Hello everyone new to site just kinda stumped on an 803 gen set when I purchased it off surplus auction and got it home and started working on it the control panel wiring at some point must have wires changed in but everything seemed to work but it was a mess. So I have a 802 that was a teer two reset machine with only 50 hours on it with engine problems that has become a parts machine. So I swapped the control panel from the 802 to the 803 now can't get the ac interrupter switch to work. Also the battle short is not working either. Any ideas what it could possibly be. Thanks
 

kevin66

New member
22
11
3
Location
St Johns MI
Have you performed the troubleshooting steps in the -24 TM?
If so, what were the results?
Still working on that. The control panel I put on the 803 was off a low hour reset machine and the control panel looked very nice with nothing missing so I was hoping that there wasn't going to be any problems. Have gone through pretty much all of the wiring everything seems to be in the right place. Do have 24 volts at the contractor and the battle short switch. I am not the best at the wiring side
 

Light in the Dark

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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MA

Files ending -10 are Operating Manuals. Files ending -24 are Technical Troubleshooting. Files ending -24P are Exploded parts diagrams. Should be books up there for both the complete machine, as well as the engine only.

All other files LOs (Lubrication orders) are worth having as well.
 

Guyfang

Moderator
Staff member
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Did the MEP-802A ever run? Did YOU ever see it run. Or are you assuming its good? And just switched it. True, they are interchangeable, but if you did not know if the 802A box was good, you may have jumped the gun.

What works when you put the S1 in the start position? Will it start? Will it run by itself? Are the only functions not working the K1 will not close? How do you know the K1 will not close? Tested it? How do you know the S7, (Emergency Bypass) will not work? What did you test?
 

kevin66

New member
22
11
3
Location
St Johns MI
The 803 starts and run I have been working on testing everything test fine on battle short with engine off tested a interrupter and checking terminals 5-6 with interrupter held open I'm reading continuity if I remove wires the switch test fine
 

Ray70

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Location
West greenwich/RI
I'm having a little bit of difficulty following you, perhaps due to the lack of punctuation etc., but regardless, have you tested the contactor itself to verify it works before going any further with testing the wiring?
I'm not following exactly how you are testing, but the contactor circuit will not function with the engine not running.
 

Ray70

Well-known member
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Location
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Will the contactor function if you push up on the switch and hold it up? Or will it not work at all?
Also, are you verifying the contactor functioning by checking for power output at the lugs or looking for the green light to illuminate?

I'm not sure what you mean above by "contactor held open"
 

kevin66

New member
22
11
3
Location
St Johns MI
I finally got a chance to look into it a little more to see where I'm losing my 24volts to the battle short switch and thinking the k8 is bad
 

kevin66

New member
22
11
3
Location
St Johns MI
Thanks I will try that next. Question if I have master switch on the run position shouldn't I have 24 volts on terminals 7&8 on k8
 

kevin66

New member
22
11
3
Location
St Johns MI
Ok thanks I will check that I was going off a working 802 that has 24 volts at 7&8 on k8 in run position with out engine running. Not sure what's going on there?
 
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