MEP-803A —— Did I Score? Maybe So.......

[Tinstar]

Installed the battery hold downs today.
Went ahead and used that one plastic shield on the starter side since it wouldn’t be in the way of anything.
Don’t think I have it installed correctly anyway.
The terminal flap covers will be installed later when I can find them.

Edit: After looking at the plastic shield picture, I’m going to remove it. Don’t like the way it looks, correctly installed or not.





Removed fuel gauge sensor.
Was a bit of a challenge.
Not as crusty as I thought it would be.

Used an DMM and tested it. The Ohms were from 25-250 range. Haven’t looked in the manual to see what it’s supposed to be.
New replacement is due in Thursday.

Also installed new coolant bottle cap.

 

[Guyfang]

Take the two screws out of the fuel level sender and see what the coil inside looks like.

 

[Ray70]

You can also connect an ohm meter to the fuel sender. move the float slowly up and down and look for dead spots where your meter shows an open circuit.
Sometimes you can clean the coil with acetone or brake cleaner, if the dead spot is caused by a thin bit of varnish.

 

[Tinstar]

You can also connect an ohm meter to the fuel sender. move the float slowly up and down and look for dead spots where your meter shows an open circuit.
Sometimes you can clean the coil with acetone or brake cleaner, if the dead spot is caused by a thin bit of varnish.

I did that.
Yes. There were several dead spots in the range of travel.

 

[Tinstar]

Take the two screws out of the fuel level sender and see what the coil inside looks like.

Ok

I will do exactly that later this morning.

 

[Tinstar]

I think this had been replaced at some point

 

[Tinstar]

The replacement arrived today.
Seems extremely well built and sturdy.

 

[Light in the Dark]

980K views · 10K reactions | #workislife | Shane Wilson

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[CallMeColt]

The replacement arrived today.
Seems extremely well built and sturdy.

The KUSS units are the best in the way they are built. I stopped putting them in for one reason.... they are not that accurate for the application in the generator.

Doesn't show full unless it's about to spill out the filler neck. Shows empty when it's really closer to 1/4ish. As long as you are alright with that, it's fine. It's just the way that sender is designed to work.

When you setup the OEM sender, it gets rotated on the top part so the float goes down into the sump of the tank. This is why it's a PITA to get out & you do a kind of swirly-gig to get it out. There is no way at all the KUSS can do that. KUSS will never wear out again though. But, I doubt a generator that is cared for with good fuel in it will have a regular OEM sender go bad either.

One without a dead spot it certainly better than one with one. I have had a few rotted so bad, only the wire was left keeping it connected & the rest of it was swinging around in there!