MEP-803A :: A few questions

[mesias]

Hi there,

I think this will be my first post after a while reading the forums, specially about generators. I recently acquired this unit, it's a 2003 with 147 hours. It looks quite well kept considering the time without use. I purchased it in auction, no fluids, no batteries.

I'm going through the expected updates before starting it... fresh batteries, new fuel lines, new filters, etc. I'm also trying to clean the fuel tank which is covered in that white powdery rust from the filler neck metal frame. In the process I'll replace both rubber nuts with the brass equivalent, the one for the fuel drain is already off. I removed the front cover and the brackets holding the tank down but for the life of me I can't find the way of pulling off the fuel tank. The TM states it can be pulled off after removing the front cover but they way I see it the shape of the tank and the top panel will not allow it. Is there a trick to it? Do I have to remove the radiator and all top panels?

Going through the fuel lines I sort of have a good idea of what I need except those hoses with AN fittings. There is one that goes from the tank's fuel pickup to the main pump. I believe the part number is 88-20191-4, is it feasible to replace the hose and reuse the fittings? I noticed when I find them online they have a manufacture date and some even show the expiration date. Is it safe to use one of these that already expired their shelf life?

Last item, for now, it's about the coolant hoses... those in and out of the radiator. I noticed there are marks in the radiator tank from the hoses sweeping coolant so I decided to removed them to better inspect them. As expected rusty water/coolant came out of them and I could see the metal helix all rusted inside. The hoses are still flexible without dry rot but I can't find peace with the idea of that rusted metal inside the cooling system. I read in the forum these are hard to come by but is there any alternative to replace them? Can those metal helix be replaced?

Thank you for your patience reading this long first post and for your feedback.

 

[BobbyT]

I'm actually going through the exact same thing with a few 802's i got recently that aren't running. I'm tearing them down to replace most worn/rotten items. As an Engineer myself, seeing how these are designed and put together, its clear to me that the folks that designed these intentionally made them as complicated as they could. They are not designed for easy disassembly/repair in the field.... i was cussing them the whole time.... Ok, rant over.... I will be installing Rivnuts and stainless hardware everywhere like i did on my 002a.

I haven't had a chance to get back to work on the tank removal yet, but when i had to stop working on it the other day, it appeared that more panels will have to come off to allow it to lift up and out. One good thing i found about having to take the tank out is that it allowed me to see that someone installed the aux hose behind the outside fill fitting a hair too long and caused it to kink.

As far as the metal springs in the coolant hoses, mine were also rust flakes and powder. I removed the radiator and spent an hour cleaning it out. My hoses appear to be in great shape once cleaned up. I won't be installing the springs back in them, i have never seen a radiator hose get sucked flat restricting flow, requiring the springs for support. I have seen the springs rust and cause water pump failures in other motors many times.

Sorry, i probably didnt contribute any help

 

[Guyfang]

I normally removed the radiator and front housing all in one piece. That way I could clean UNDER the tank also.

 

[mesias]

Yeah... I'll try that. It sort of makes sense. That should facilitate changing the belt and inspecting the thermostat.

Any feedback on the hoses and fuel lines?

Thanks!!

 

[Guyfang]

I never worried about the springs. If we had new ones, we put them in. but never held a job up waiting on them.

Fuel lines. Do they leak, seep, weep? But if you take the front end off, do the fuel lines. Much easier to get at, and you will not have to ever worry about it for a long time.

Riv-nuts are a topic. Lots of people love them, and where you can use them, its good. But the TQG gen sets have a lot of play in the housing. When you install riv-nuts, there is no play. Then things will not line up right. I would get new stainless fasteners, and install them in every thing I took apart. But not riv-nuts. Just my opinion.

 

[mesias]

I'm looking around for flexible reinforced silicone hoses for the radiator. They should adapt to the short run in this motor. Something like this: https://www.hosecraftusa.com/model/CV2_WIRE_REINFORCED_SILICONE_HOSE

I haven't seen this the engine running yet... I'm hoping for the best. All I'm doing is preventive maintenance.

I agree with you about the rivnuts. They are great for many applications but I stay with caged nuts for this one. I'm putting it back together with stainless screws 18-8. A drop of any antiseize should prevent any future issues with those bolts.

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Go to this sticky.

MEP-802A MEP-803A Filters and Parts

The 2nd post has quick links. There is the thread about stainless steel bolts used.

MEP-8xx stainless steel screw information

Howdy, For those thinking about swapping a bunch of the screws on your MEP-802/803 MEP-8xx stainless steel screw information The main screw used 80% of locations on the panels #10-32 x 1/2" Hex - Unslotted Drive Indented Hex Washer Head Grade 18-8 Stainless Steel Machine Screw #10 18-8...

www.steelsoldiers.com

 

[mesias]

I went through that sticky post... it was perfect to gather most needed parts. The goal of this thread is around the coolant hoses and the main fuel supply hoses. I would like to update them all but they are not readily available.

 

[Lovetofix]

On the coolant hoses I went to the local auto parts store with the old hoses and they let my look three their wall of preformed hoses till I found ones that had angles to match and I just cut them to size.

I found the fuel supply hose at the privately owned Carquest one town over from us and reused the fittings with no problems. That is some expensive stuff though at $6.00/ft. The other option is to find a good auxiliary fuel hose and cut pieces out of that to replace the onboard lines. Just make sure it is in better condition than the ones already on your set.


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[Light in the Dark]

You didnt happen to keep the manufacturer and model number of what you purchased did you?

 

[Lovetofix]

I have the maintenance receipts in a file back home in TN. I’m stuck in Haiti for who knows how long because of the COVID-19.


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[Lovetofix]

Here is how it turned out. I did stick the springs back in but I had to cut them in half to put in from each end. I couldn’t get them to go around the second bend.
I just didn’t feel like trying to hunt down exact replacements so I went with O’reillys stock hoses.


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[Light in the Dark]

Those look like real good substitutions!

 

[mesias]

Very nice! Do you recall any other details about the fuel lines? ID, OD, wall thickness, etc?

 

[Light in the Dark]

The fuel lines are easy (if we are talking soft lines, versus hard lines). The larger diameter lines can be easily crossed to Gates Safety Stripe II 1/4", and the return line to Gates Safety Stripe II 1/8".

Both are readily available at O'Reillys either by the foot, or the spool. Other chains probably carry it too, but thats where I have sourced it. You will cut the flared fittings off the larger lines and replace with worm gear hose clamps, and the return lines just use small zip ties.

 

[Lovetofix]

The fuel line I was talking about being $6.00 a foot is the line from the tank to the electric fuel pump and from the fuel/ water separator to the bowl filter. It looks like it has six layers with braided outer sheath, rubber, steel, rubber, nylon, and rubber. This hose is also used for airbrake lines on older commercial vehicles and some medium pressure hydraulic applications since the fittings are “field serviceable.” Here are pictures:

 

[Lovetofix]

You can of course use regular hydraulic hose that is multi fluid rated or even regular rubber fuel hose and have any hose shop or auto parts store crimp the JIC fittings on for you. That is definitely cheaper and is what I did for the 802a pictured.
For my 803a I needed to be able to make up my hoses in the field (Haiti) so I sprang for the expensive stuff.


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[mesias]

Definitely the whole front needs to be removed in order to take the fuel tank out. There is no other way...



And yes, the bottom of where the tank sits needs some good cleaning...



Thank you all for your feedback on the fuel lines. I just purchased a few feet of AEROQUIP 303-4 hose which meets the MIL spec for these fuel hoses. Lets see how it fits in these fittings. I'll keep you posted.

I'm still looking for the silicone based replacement coolant hoses. It seems UK is where they are mostly made... hard to find in the US a retailer with flexible reinforced silicone hoses. The search continues.

 

[Farmitall]

I'm actually going through the exact same thing with a few 802's i got recently that aren't running. I'm tearing them down to replace most worn/rotten items. As an Engineer myself, seeing how these are designed and put together, its clear to me that the folks that designed these intentionally made them as complicated as they could. They are not designed for easy disassembly/repair in the field.... i was cussing them the whole time.... Ok, rant over.... I will be installing Rivnuts and stainless hardware everywhere like i did on my 002a.

I haven't had a chance to get back to work on the tank removal yet, but when i had to stop working on it the other day, it appeared that more panels will have to come off to allow it to lift up and out. One good thing i found about having to take the tank out is that it allowed me to see that someone installed the aux hose behind the outside fill fitting a hair too long and caused it to kink.

As far as the metal springs in the coolant hoses, mine were also rust flakes and powder. I removed the radiator and spent an hour cleaning it out. My hoses appear to be in great shape once cleaned up. I won't be installing the springs back in them, i have never seen a radiator hose get sucked flat restricting flow, requiring the springs for support. I have seen the springs rust and cause water pump failures in other motors many times.

Sorry, i probably didnt contribute any help

I think the same guy worked on one of my sets.....it had that exact same kink in the same line!

 

[Light in the Dark]

I've never seen a failure on this larger hose on any of the sets I have gone through. But I would probably just have my local NAPA fab up a hydraulic line with JIC fittings if I had to. I had them do that on the primary fuel line (post fuel filters) on an 002 and it was well worth the money.