MEP-803A battery size

[JRM]

I see on some auctions that the battery's have shields to keep them away from the block- my 803 has nothing- no hold downs or anything and the + terminal is only about a inch away from the block, does anyone want to sell me the correct hold down hardware?

 

[dav5]

I see on some auctions that the battery's have shields to keep them away from the block- my 803 has nothing- no hold downs or anything and the + terminal is only about a inch away from the block, does anyone want to sell me the correct hold down hardware?

Hi, If you can't find the original hold downs it is not hard to make them out of 3/4 inch angle. Just cut a small piece, drill a 1/4 inch hole, and weld it to each end of the main angle iron. The threaded rods are just 1/4 rod bent on one end and threaded. I put some self stick weatherstripping to cushion it.The original rods are stainless steel but mild steel works just fine. I can send a photo of both the original and the home made ones if you would like. I have the plastic shields but they are a pita so I don't use them.

 

[Guyfang]

I always liked the hold downs, and tossed the plastic covers in the trash. What a waste of time. The hold down bars can bend a little, so if you over tighten them, they tend to not work so well.

 

[dav5]

The 803A's are rock solid and vibrate very little. I put the big batteries in and tightened them down with the hold downs. As Guyfang said in a previous post they fit well if you use the hold downs. Not a ton of clearance but more than enough.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

The threaded rod part of the hold down can be made from 1/4in threaded rod. I put 300cca lawn mower batterys in a 803a and it started fine in 10* ny weather.

 

[Dwnorton1]

Grainier type store sells FRP angle in 1"X 1" by 5' lengths that would work well for $12

https://www.grainger.com/category/fiberglass-angle-stock/fiberglass/raw-materials/ecatalog/N-c15
for reference only.

 

[Light in the Dark]

These aren't the right length... but you can see the J hooks are pretty easy to source: https://www.amazon.com/Road-Power-966-8-Battery-2-Pack/dp/B000BPTUB4

You can probably buy what you need a local auto parts place. Just measure from the two cut outs below the door openings (where the J end sticks out and locates) diagonally up to the backside upper edge of the battery (where you locate the bracket), and voila.

 

[dav5]

This is what I made for my 2nd 803A. They are stronger than the original hold downs. I bought the angle at TSC.

 

[csheath]

So much for cheap batteries. I turned the switch on my 803 this morning to see what the fuel gauge was reading (thought I smelled fuel). My value power group 26 batteries were dead as a doornail. One had less than a volt and the other had 10 volts. On the lucky side they were one day from being out of the one year warranty. A quick trip to wally world and I was back in business. Probably have to buy some decent ones next year when they fail again.

Closer inspection this afternoon found no fuel leak and tank was full so all seems good. Tomorrow is the scheduled test day so I will run it under load and give it another good look over then.

 

[windyhill]

I fooled around with a lot of different batteries, The MT-47/H5-1 are about perfect. The terminals are away from the block, they fit the factory plastic tray and hold downs on my 2010 MEP-803A

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
The military specs
MEP-802A = Group size 51R
MEP-803A = Group size 34 or 34/78

Whatever battery manufacturer you want.

MEP-802A MEP-803A battery hold downs

 

[windyhill]

The Problem I ran into is the Optima 34/78 batteries have the terminals closer to the center of the battery so the hold down bar isn't and issue. A regular 34/78 battery has terminals that are at the back close to the block and very close to the hold down bar when installed. Not ideal at all. The MT-47/H5-1 is very close in size to the 34/78 but terminals are reversed. it also has a indent on battery where the hold down fits nicely. They don't make a Group 34R (reversed posts) anymore from what the battery dealer said. I have about 30 used batteries around and tried a ton of them to see what worked the best. Hope this helps.

 

[The Captain]

I have some 270 cranking amp lawn tractor batteries in my John Deere, 99 Mustang, and my gate opener. They are a good value at 28 bucks apiece.

Just exchanged my 24s for some budget 26s. They are a little narrower and shorter and 2 inches shorter in length.

Adding: The group 26 batteries tucked right in and leave a little room all the way around. The 51 might have fit better but it was $109 vs $48. I am not planning to tie these down so I didn't check to see if the brackets fit.

View attachment 660273 View attachment 660274 View attachment 660272 View attachment 660275 View attachment 660271

Thanks for the pictures of fitment. These 26s look good in there. This is just a generator after all, and you have 2 batteries. If this were a 12 volt system, you would be able to use 1 650 cca and it would be fine. With twice the voltage you only need half the amps to do the same work. I need to find some dirt cheap 270 CCAs some place but with the round posts.

 

[csheath]

Thanks for the pictures of fitment. These 26s look good in there. This is just a generator after all, and you have 2 batteries. If this were a 12 volt system, you would be able to use 1 650 cca and it would be fine. With twice the voltage you only need half the amps to do the same work. I need to find some dirt cheap 270 CCAs some place but with the round posts.

As I stated in my post #29 those Value Power 26 batteries died after a short life. I replaced them with two U1R-7 Lawn tractor batteries that are just over three years old and holding so far. $25 apiece.

To install those I drilled the battery holes out to 5/16", spread the battery terminal ends, and ran the bolt through at the outer ends.

 

[The Captain]

As I stated in my post #29 those Value Power 26 batteries died after a short life. I replaced them with two U1R-7 Lawn tractor batteries that are just over three years old and holding so far. $25 apiece.

To install those I drilled the battery holes out to 5/16", spread the battery terminal ends, and ran the bolt through at the outer ends.

View attachment 862476

OK I missed that before THANKS for pointing it out again. I cancelled my group 26 order and instead ordered two of these walmart U1R-7s. EXCELLENT to hear that these tractor batteries are still working after 3 years. I mean, as long as you keep a charge maintainer on them there is no reason why they should have a problem. But the 26s are well known for barely lasting a year.

 

[pclausen]

Man I want some of those Walmart U1R-7s! Went to walmart.com and of course they are not available at my local Supercenter nor any of the centers nearby. How did you "order" them?

EDIT: They have the U1-7s. From your pics, it looks like those would work since the battery cables are long enough to be swapped around and still keep the terminals away of the engine block. Yes?

 

[csheath]

Man I want some of those Walmart U1R-7s! Went to walmart.com and of course they are not available at my local Supercenter nor any of the centers nearby. How did you "order" them?

EDIT: They have the U1-7s. From your pics, it looks like those would work since the battery cables are long enough to be swapped around and still keep the terminals away of the engine block. Yes?

When I bought these I just walked in and put them in the basket. They show all versions out of stock online so I guess they are victim of the dreaded supply issues.

I don't know if the cables would reach or not. I was considering getting all new cables when I replaced them. I noticed the other day my store no longer has any cables either.

Probably one of those things that is about to triple in price.

Might just have to go to an Interstate or other battery store.

Looks like O'Reilly has their brand for $50.

https://www.oreillyauto.com/detail/c/lawn-garden/battery---accessories/batteries---lawn---garden/8d999bf5d02e/super-start-lawn-garden-group-size-u1r-l-shaped-battery/ssb1/u1rh/v/a/18113/automotive-suv-2004-dodge-durango?pos=4

 

[pclausen]

Picked up 6 of the U1-7s today. They actually had 16 of them in stock and 3 of the U1R-7s, but I had already purchased the 6 online for less than the price in the store ($29.97). I'm pretty sure they will work just fine.

Got them charging now:



They are bigger than I thought and almost is large as 51Rs, but of course less capacity.

 

[pclausen]

The non R batteries work just fine. You just run the “jumper cable” between the batteries in front of the engine instead of behind it. The battery clamp bolts fit through the holes on the terminals without having to drill the holes larger too.

The only minor annoyance was that the nuts bottoms out on the oem j-bolts threads before the battery is snug, but that was easily remedied by slipping on a couple of larger bolts first to use as spacers.

So using these $25 batteries was a great tip!

 

[Waukesha]

The Problem I ran into is the Optima 34/78 batteries have the terminals closer to the center of the battery so the hold down bar isn't and issue. A regular 34/78 battery has terminals that are at the back close to the block and very close to the hold down bar when installed. Not ideal at all. The MT-47/H5-1 is very close in size to the 34/78 but terminals are reversed. it also has a indent on battery where the hold down fits nicely. They don't make a Group 34R (reversed posts) anymore from what the battery dealer said. I have about 30 used batteries around and tried a ton of them to see what worked the best. Hope this helps.

With the H5 batteries, are any modifications needed? Will the stock cables reach?
With the recent cold snap, one of my batteries is giving me grief..

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