MEP-803a Crankcase full of fuel...

[Spud_Monkey]

Did you try to crank the motor over to see if fuel comes out?
For the stuck pump, I had to take the top of the pump apart to see the plunger. Then I stuck a strong magnetic inside on the plunger and rotated it clockwise so I could get the pump out. I've also had to use a small pick to turn the plunger on another unit. Make sure you keep the pump hold down in place, but you may have to loosen it, just a tad to take pressure off the rack.

Yeah I tried cranking it when it with fuel on and nothing came out. That's good idea on how you rotated it to get it out, I ran out ideas and few heavy objects went airborne

 

[rhurey]

What I suspect is happened to the stuck pump is the fuel control lever on the pump has rotated under the block. (My wording here is likely horrible.) Assuming the pump is dropping really close to the block (like 3/32nds above) you should be able to push it down that last little bit and move the fuel rail by had using the throttle to pull the level back.

With the pump stuck, is the fuel rack at the off position? (All the way left IIRC) or is it bound up in some intermediate state?

They key I learned was when installing the pumps, it's critical to only install the pump when the plunger tappet is at the bottom of its travel. Getting that wrong once was the cause of my grief.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

What I suspect is happened to the stuck pump is the fuel control lever on the pump has rotated under the block. (My wording here is likely horrible.) Assuming the pump is dropping really close to the block (like 3/32nds above) you should be able to push it down that last little bit and move the fuel rail by had using the throttle to pull the level back.

With the pump stuck, is the fuel rack at the off position? (All the way left IIRC) or is it bound up in some intermediate state?
They key I learned was when installing the pumps, it's critical to only install the pump when the plunger tappet is at the bottom of its travel. Getting that wrong once was the cause of my grief.

I think it's the fuel control lever stuck and it being the far left one I can't rotate it far enough to get it lined up with the slot for it. About to embark on this here in minute, I took the crankcase cover off to see how things work in there and now I can feel when the plunger is BDC. Another question is the plunger comes out should the craddle it rides on come out too it rides on the cam shaft I see.

P.S. Anyone had this problem or having this problem with fuel in crankcase be sure when you drain the oil to tilt the engine towards drain much as possible. It sitting on flat ground it holds about another pint of contaminated oil in there.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Alright got it all back together in their fuel racks replaced all 4 metering pumps, how long do I have to crank to get any fuel going. Seems to be nothing going on.

 

[jamawieb]

It shouldn't take more than 1 minute of starting. Are you using the master switch on the front, for the attempts to start it. You said that you're getting fuel to the rubber hoses before the pumps, correct? If so, it goes directly into the pump and should start coming out.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

It shouldn't take more than 1 minute of starting. Are you using the master switch on the front, for the attempts to start it. You said that you're getting fuel to the rubber hoses before the pumps, correct? If so, it goes directly into the pump and should start coming out.

Nope not a **** thing and I'm using the master switch. Yeah got fuel coming out the rubber lines, used the old shims, got the fuel adjusters in the rack, put each one in with it at BDC on the tappets.

 

[rhurey]

Mine fired almost instantly one put back correctly.

Pull a metering pump and manually move the throttle. Use a mirror or your finger to verify the rack is moving.
If it is, put that pump back in and repeat with the next.

That should verify the rack is working. I had the rack bent a bit and it bound up.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Mine fired almost instantly one put back correctly.

Pull a metering pump and manually move the throttle. Use a mirror or your finger to verify the rack is moving.
If it is, put that pump back in and repeat with the next.

That should verify the rack is working. I had the rack bent a bit and it bound up.

All is working on the rack I took all them out a 4th time and put them back in one at a time adjusting the rack to make sure they seated in it and I made sure it was BDC on each one that went in and still no fuel with plenty fuel feeding them. I'm ready to shoot it, destroy it and sell what is left after I'm done, this is too much stress with PTSD.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

What is the difference in
751-41322 metering pump and
751-41174 metering pump, anything?

 

[Bmxenbrett]

If your cranking the engine and have fuel at the soft lines i would guess your metering pin isnt in the rack correctly. Its a complete pain in the ass. I spent 10hrs one day messing with a 802a. When you put the pump in( before u bolt it down) move the rack and see if the pump trys to turn. Also did you pull one pump and move the rack to verify that its actualy moving?

 

[Spud_Monkey]

If your cranking the engine and have fuel at the soft lines i would guess your metering pin isnt in the rack correctly. Its a complete pain in the ass. I spent 10hrs one day messing with a 802a. When you put the pump in( before u bolt it down) move the rack and see if the pump trys to turn. Also did you pull one pump and move the rack to verify that its actualy moving?

After a good dose of CBD I pulled all the metering pumps out then pulled the freeze plug towards far right, as I was moving the governor to move the fuel rack I noticed it looking in the hole the governor wasn't moving far enough to drop a pump in and metering pin line up so I nudge it and dropped one in. Also noticed without any pumps in the rack moves freely yet doesn't return back and sometimes it like it fell off the governor itself. After I got 4 pumps in with using that hole as line up nothing wanted to moved yet all the metering pins were in. My analysis is to pull front of the engine off and see what the governor is doing to the fuel rack something is right. I believe this generator was jimmy rigged to run with governor, fuel rack and solenoid that moves the governor, when I pulled the old ones out it fell apart internally somehow.

 

[rhurey]

You had all 4 out at the same time?

There's a different install process if ALL the metering pumps are removed. I recall something about a jig in the TM.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

You had all 4 out at the same time?

There's a different install process if ALL the metering pumps are removed. I recall something about a jig in the TM.

Yep and I seen that jig it's to set timing and everything on it which after this mess I will do. I tried the one at time process of changing these out and couldn't figure out why it wasn't working which this mess ensued. The metering pins were missing the fuel rack and turning them counter clockwise was only causing them to pop out the fuel rack after I moved the governor and end up jamming the fuel rack. Something is worn out between the governor and fuel rack.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Alright everyone after throwing few things around and now needing a new radio in the shop I got the generator apart. First to get main crank bolt off to get crank pulley off the threads are left handed, after that came off I got the gear cover off to access the governor parts and inside was the spring for returning the fuel rack back to position. Part number 186-6121 which is number 9 on the exploded view on figure 13. Apparently it's worn out cause even though there was no fuel metering pumps installed the fuel rack would stick. Went to hardware store for $2.16 I got one I custom made. Looks like someone been in this generator before me as I bought this at government auction cause the radiator is banged up on the inside towards the engine. Which means someone was impatient in putting it together to cause that damage and I can only imagine what else what messed with.

 

[Guyfang]

Is there a reset tag on it?

Soldiers, on the whole, don't go that far into an engine. Maintenance procedures tell them to change the engine, when it has a problem. Commanders don't like down time. So when a problem is above their level of maintenance, they send the set to Direct Support Maintenance. DS maint normally doesn't want to go into an engine, because it's quicker to simply change it. About the only time I ever saw anyone go into an engine, was at RESET.

I talked to a CECOM guy who told me the springs were a problem early on, but were "corrected", what ever that means.

Ah yes. The famous left handed threads. I watched two Brits, (in a RESET facility) break one off. They worked real hard at it! That engine got swapped out too!

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Nope no RESET tag which baffles me how did the radiator get damaged, any who I nicked a hole in it it needs soldered or replaced now. I wonder how early on did they change the springs how cause this one is from 2000 and it got its new paint job in 2008. Little bit of heat and going back and forth with the impact I found out which way the threads went without snapping it as my impact isn't that strong. Now I got to wait for my next paycheck and get a gasket kit to seal everything back up and I feel so much better seeing how everything works.

 

[Guyfang]

If the paint job is both inside and outside, then it got a reset also. No one painted a set inside and outside for any other reason.

 

[Spud_Monkey]

Looks like it and who ever did it sucked at it. Some of the nuts and bolts are mismatched on the housing body and a lot of them are falling out over time I have to go buy some more nuts and bolts and just replace them all with stainless then Loctite them to ensure a clean job. Lot's of work to make this gen set right again, at least I got some use before it kicked over.

 

[DieselAddict]

Once you have it back together and in good shape it should outlive you. One thing to put in the plus column.

 

[Guyfang]

One of the reasons I always looked at everything, around what ever I was repairing, was so I could go that extra mile. As long as you have something taken apart, then fix it right! Go the extra mile. In the end, you will be repaid with longer service, better reliability and a wonder feeling for your set. It's not just a lump of metal. It's YOUR generator.